Daughters first vehicle, 2003 F-150 5.4

[D60]

Concur, as the original owner of a 98 5.4 4x4 I can ay that the drivetrain is essentially bulletproof (2V 5.4/4R100/9.75/8.8/BW4406) but plug changes are no fun and trying to get a torque wrench onto the rear 2 passenger side plugs is a PITA. That said, the alternator and the transfer case electric shift motor are the only two items that have been replaced other than normal maintenance items.
I've since used Lightning parts to convert it to supercharged with a 2.9L Whipple on top.

My '07 is an XL with true t-case lever. It's GLORIOUS! And honestly, one of THE BEST lever actions EVAR -- a very short and positive pull back and you're powering the front wheels.

My ex-FIL special ordered a '97 XLT before the bubble bodies had even hit the lots. He spec'd a manual t-case with the 5.4 and it caused a delay in him receiving his truck, but was of course worth it.

This reminds me OP: it's not entirely uncommon for these trucks to break a front torsion bar, but you'll know (of course) and it's not a big deal.

The biggest PITA is an IM leaking coolant, mostly 'cause you just can't get a quality part to replace it.

 

[panthermike]

The 2v engines had the plug blowout issue. I've heard Internet lore about ford "fixing" the problem mid year 01, 02, 03, 04, 05 ... rinse, repeat until they stopped making the 2v 5.4 in 2014.

They won't break off in the head. They blow out because Ford spec'd 14 ft/lb. I torque both of my 2v engines to 25-29 ft/lb. They threads will hold up to around 80 before they pull. When you torque them to the factory spec, they'll back off a little then take all the threads on the way out.

They're pretty good engines. Not much for power and they'll need to really sing to do any work.

I have one with 250K in my truck. The right head gasket can leak oil . If it rattles a bit on cold start, it'll need timing guides/tensioners ... the chains last forever.

The transmission in them is pretty good. Some sort of 4R70/75 variant. Change the fluid using MERCON V ONLY. Do not use something that is compatible with other fluids. You risk getting torque converter shudder. Change the filter in the pan and reuse the factory gasket.





A 2v 5.4 makes less torque and horsepower than your average NA V6 of today

This is a good post here! Torque them a bit more and you'll be fine. They really are good motors, just underpowered, especially by todays standards.

 

[D60]

This is a good post here! Torque them a bit more and you'll be fine. They really are good motors, just underpowered, especially by todays standards.

If you're not afraid to spin them they're not horrific -- not great, but (barely) sufficient.

The best thing I did in my XL was swap in a cluster with a tach. At my altitude you need to be over 4k rpm then it moves kinda-ok

 

[PontiacHO]

Change oil and filter and if the trans fluid is still red, let it be. Forget the spark plugs. If the folks had regular service at a dealership then they’ve been changed. Don’t “fix” what ain’t broke. A little underpowered but that’s a good thing for a young driver.

 

[Badgerstate]

I dont recall if those used the 2v or 3v engine. If its a 2v, suddenly ejecting spark plugs are a concern. My '99 had one that ejected on me but its nothing a helicoil cant fix.
If its a 3v, its a bigger concern because the plugs can often break when you try to change them. At 108K, hopefully they have already been done and it should be good for another 92K before you have to worry about it.
Other than that, its a solid truck that should serve her well.

 

[AdmiralYoda]

I had a 2004 Expedition with the 5.4L. I got it at 70k-ish miles from an old lady that probably never went over 30mph. After about 3 miles on my first trip I gave it some gas and blew out 3 plugs!!!

Thankfully my old man is a mechanic and had the tool to extract the remnants! Replaced them all and called it done. Rust and rot took the truck a couple years later by 120k.

 

[panthermike]

I had a 2004 Expedition with the 5.4L. I got it at 70k-ish miles from an old lady that probably never went over 30mph. After about 3 miles on my first trip I gave it some gas and blew out 3 plugs!!!

Thankfully my old man is a mechanic and had the tool to extract the remnants! Replaced them all and called it done. Rust and rot took the truck a couple years later by 120k.

Yikes! If I were to ever buy a 5.4/6.8 2v, the very first order of business would be torquing the plugs down!

 

[thastinger]

Yikes! If I were to ever buy a 5.4/6.8 2v, the very first order of business would be torquing the plugs down!

There were a lot of self-inflicted wounds with those plugs, it is very difficult to get a torque wrench on the rear 2 passenger side plugs. I never chucked one in my 98 and knew at least 10 guys that had them back in the day and nobody ever chucked one.
It obviously did happen to some people though. The plugs are tapered with no crush washer in those motors so the proper torque is essential.

 

[panthermike]

There were a lot of self-inflicted wounds with those plugs, it is very difficult to get a torque wrench on the rear 2 passenger side plugs. I never chucked one in my 98 and knew at least 10 guys that had them back in the day and nobody ever chucked one.
It obviously did happen to some people though. The plugs are tapered with no crush washer in those motors so the proper torque is essential.

I agree, I've also known at least 4 people with that engine and no issues either. Actually my dad bought a new 1997 F250 LD (pretty uncommon) with the 5.4 which was the first year. He sold it with around 130k miles in 2001. Always loved it though, fond memories.

 

[thastinger]

Actually my dad bought a new 1997 F250 LD (pretty uncommon) with the 5.4 which was the first year.

The elusive 7 lug axles. My buddy's farm had a tan one as a shop truck.

 

[D60]

I just did a 3V (so, slightly different scenario) and couldn't torque at least #4. But get a feel on the others and you can get close. When in doubt a tiny bit more is better than a tiny bit less, but you can't go full gorilla on aluminum heads.

There's anecdotal evidence even the original 2V heads can withstand double the recommended 25-28ft lbs, but I've never cared to test that

 

[Brons2]

I don't believe plugs were a big issue in the 2v but were a problem in the 3v until they updated it later in its life. Didn't have an issue when I did the plugs in my 97 5.4 You could try a generous dose of penetrating oil given an hour to work good like deep creep to help them come out easier. Heard sea foam deep creep is good for stuck plugs. The best penetrating oil I've used to date is kimball midwest but it is difficult to find and pricey but it is wonderfully aggressive stuff. I have to be careful using it because if a tiny bit hits my skin especially my face it starts to burn a bit.

Seriously???

The 2 valves shoot out spark plugs. There is a procedure to make it much less likely, involves over-torqing them to 25ft/lbs and some other stuff.

No they don't get stuck like the 3 valves but that is not to say they are problem free.

 

[Brons2]

That 2v engine will last a long time, my father had over 300k on his before he started to get overheating, more than likely a head cracked a little. Some mechanic in a bottle stop leak actually seemed to work. He sold it and the guy still drives it around. They are prone to sludge, and the timing belt guides will break eventually. I would recommend a flush, like BG EPR/MOA if the service history is hit or miss.

You are wrong, these engines are not sluge prone. Just change the oil every 5K like the maintenance manual says.

 

[JavierH19]

Seriously???

The 2 valves shoot out spark plugs. There is a procedure to make it much less likely, involves over-torqing them to 25ft/lbs and some other stuff.

No they don't get stuck like the 3 valves but that is not to say they are problem free.

I forgot to add in that I tightened mine a lot more since I was making my comment long enough already but I remember doing mine at around 51k or maybe 53k because I did take my sweet time to get around to changing them but when I did take them off I noticed they came out rather easily and they weren't tight but I had no clue what the spark plug torque specs were as I was taught to simply "snug them tight" no matter what it is so I did and I probably torqued them to at least 40lb probably closer to 50 and I had no issue until it was gone at 120k.

 

[addyguy]

These OHC Fords are a very ‘tall’ engine with large valve covers. On a short-tripped truck in a cold climate (ND for sure), condensation in the valvetrain will be a problem.
Keep an eye out for how much ‘milkshake’ gets into the oil, and change oil more frequently, or get it out for a longer hot drive regularly.

 

[Sj08]

These OHC Fords are a very ‘tall’ engine with large valve covers. On a short-tripped truck in a cold climate (ND for sure), condensation in the valvetrain will be a problem.
Keep an eye out for how much ‘milkshake’ gets into the oil, and change oil more frequently, or get it out for a longer hot drive regularly.

Have to do the first one out in the cold this weekend, then planning on changing oil every 6 months, spring and fall. Good idea on taking it out for a longer drive.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

These OHC Fords are a very ‘tall’ engine with large valve covers. On a short-tripped truck in a cold climate (ND for sure), condensation in the valvetrain will be a problem.
Keep an eye out for how much ‘milkshake’ gets into the oil, and change oil more frequently, or get it out for a longer hot drive regularly.

Good point. Both of mine will milkshake the oil cap in the colder months.

 

[D60]

It's very common on all Tritons -- 2V and 3V -- to get a bit of milkshake on the underside of filler cap. I wouldn't sweat it

 

[mt23]

Parents have a 2001 2V 6.8L in an F250 and one winter it got several short trips in a row with subzero temps. The freeze thaw from the moisture broke the pcv baffle off the inside of the passenger side valve cover. Just enough room to prop up the valve cover to fish the baffle out. Been running baffle free for a while, no issues

 

[Kira]

Since she got it "for free", consider addressing the rust etc.
Have her fill up whenever she buys gas and log it. Have her tally mileage monthly.
It's so simple to do and gas records, like maintenance records, can help sell a truck....should she ever want to.

You people in the middle of the country often do "80 mile commutes".
While the math of a free vehicle can't be beat, 800 miles per week in a comfy, low car vs a heavier truck can be preferable.