Cylinder Deactivation Delete/Disable

Joined
Oct 19, 2025
Messages
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I was thinking about new(ish) vehicles to purchase and which ones that would potentially last 300 to 500k. With turbos, high pressure fuel pumps, and cylinder deactivation that seems to really limit my choices.

I recently heard some people mention disabling "cylinder deactivation" could almost restore the lifespan of previously proven engines (Honda 3.5, gm 5.3, Dodge 5.7 etc...).

How many people on the forum have deleted their "cylinder deactivation" and l would curious know the mileage on the vehicle?
 
I was thinking about new(ish) vehicles to purchase and which ones that would potentially last 300 to 500k. With turbos, high pressure fuel pumps, and cylinder deactivation that seems to really limit my choices.

I recently heard some people mention disabling "cylinder deactivation" could almost restore the lifespan of previously proven engines (Honda 3.5, gm 5.3, Dodge 5.7 etc...).

How many people on the forum have deleted their "cylinder deactivation" and l would curious know the mileage on the vehicle?

This is a fallacy. In the case of the 5.3-the parts in question are still in the motor-and disabling them doesn't remove the design flaw. This has been proven by many threads on GM forums. They can and still do FAIL. I cannot speak for Honda or Dodge.
 
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RE: the Honda 3.5 v6.
I put a muzzler on my DIL's Odyssey when it popped the code (forget which one but it had to do with a missfire) and it began to drink oil. Refilled with oil and changed the missfiring plug. The mini van soldiered on another 50K until she traded it in for a new Toyota Sequoia.
 
My Corvette has this technology but if I use the paddle shifters it keeps the engine always firing on all 8 cylinders. So 99% of the time that’s the way I drive. For the first couple of years with the car I would let it go into 4 cylinder mode on the highway and it did return some pretty stellar MPG. Combined with the ethanol free gas I was getting back then I could get 40 MPG on the highway! So the technology does work but at the possible expense of hurting the engine (and possibly even the transmission)
 
300-500k is not a guarantee even with a mid 90s peak Toyota reliability. If you want that you probably have to buy a 90s Camry and restore it to new condition, or leave enough budget to drop an engine mid-way.

Today's car? Probably a dual injection non turbo boring car with no CVT or hybrid battery. I have a feeling that a natural aspire Mazda 4 cylinder boring automatic, not CVT, would be the closest to it.
 
I could be wrong but l thought heard Mazda was using cylinder deactivation.

I am not sure but based on the above thread it seems like they have been fine so far. If you are concern you may have to get an older one without it.

Edited to link to the BITOG thread in addition to reddit.
 
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I am not sure but based on the above thread it seems like they have been fine so far. If you are concern you may have to get an older one without it.

Edited to link to the BITOG thread in addition to reddit.


Reddit- is the twilight zone on the Internet. IMHO-it has very little credibility.
 
Of the new vehicles Toyota is the only brand that fits my needs. Siena (ICE and hybrids), Highlander, Rav4, FJ Cruiser.
 
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