Cutting a "male end" on a 2x4

[JHZR2]

Can someone tell me the best way to cut a clean "male end" on a 2x4? Very straight and smooth is desired, so cutting, not a chisel.

Essentially I want a 1x4 end on a 2x4, with the 1x4 extending from the center of the piece. Notionally I would cut a notch via two cuts that intersect at a right angle with each other, removing the wood. But how?

I have a worm drive circular saw, a compound mitre saw, a jigsaw and a Japanese pull saw.

The circular saw could cut to the depth (like 1/2"), but not far enough in to cleanly cut from the end inward to the intersecting cut.

So how would I do it?

Thanks!

 

[itguy08]

Table saw or band saw would be your best bet. I know my skills with a cricular saw and jigsaw would never get it as straight as I can with the table saw.

 

[GreeCguy]

There's a couple of ways - one would be a hand saw. Simply mark and cut.

For a skill circular saw. measure the depth you want and set your saw to that depth. Then make a series of cuts ACROSS the board, paying attention to the first cut and after that, simply make the cuts to remove the wood. Make the cuts right next to each other and knock the remaining wood out with a hammer, You will have to clean up the cut with a sharp chisel, but you'll be able to easily do that and have a nice clean finish.

 

[hisilver]

FWIW its called a 'tenon'

 

[05LGTLtd]

Pull saw and clean with a chisel. Practice a few first, and you will learn how to keep from over cutting. Or if your doing a lot of them, dado on a tabl saw. Settin up a simple router jig would get you there too.

 

[GreeCguy]

If you had a router or access to a router, that would work great. Simply mark the wood, make a cut at the line with a skill saw and then router out the rest of the wood.

 

[JHZR2]

I don't have a router or table saw... I guess that is my issue, but I need to work around it.

 

[GreeCguy]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
I don't have a router or table saw... I guess that is my issue, but I need to work around it.


Not a problem. If you really want to be dead on accurate, make a little jig with some scrap lumber to hold your two by four in place. Mark your piece and carefully make the first cut. Remember to set your saw to the proper depth. After the first cut, you'll then be using the saw to remove most of the remaining wood. You could use it to remove all the wood, but that is time consuming and unnecessary. Make cuts close to each other, as close a a quarter of an inch. Then simply take a hammer and knock the pieces out. Then, with a very sharp chisel, you can cut out the wood with the chisel, (you probably won't even have to use a hammer, but if you do, do it gently). Play on a couple of scrap pieces and you will get the feel of it. It's really and easy thing to do. Be careful when cutting as power saws love to gobble fingers.

 

[GreeCguy]

(When I say you won't have to use a hammer, I should explain that you won't have to use a hammer to drive your chisel. You will have to use a hammer to knock out the wood pieces. If your chisel is sharp enough, all you have to do is push it with your hand and guide it where you want it to go - it really is easy).

 

[05LGTLtd]

Goolge "Roy Underhill Woodwright tenon" and select videos after search.

 

[JHZR2]

Would one of those oscillating multi-tools or a Dremel be of use?

Also I have a couple chisels, but I'm not sure if they are the sharpest they could be. What's the best way to sharpen them to an optimum point? I have a knife sharpener, but a chisel is only half a blade, if it matters.

Thanks!

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: GreeCguy
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
I don't have a router or table saw... I guess that is my issue, but I need to work around it.


Not a problem. If you really want to be dead on accurate, make a little jig with some scrap lumber to hold your two by four in place. Mark your piece and carefully make the first cut. Remember to set your saw to the proper depth. After the first cut, you'll then be using the saw to remove most of the remaining wood. You could use it to remove all the wood, but that is time consuming and unnecessary. Make cuts close to each other, as close a a quarter of an inch. Then simply take a hammer and knock the pieces out. Then, with a very sharp chisel, you can cut out the wood with the chisel, (you probably won't even have to use a hammer, but if you do, do it gently). Play on a couple of scrap pieces and you will get the feel of it. It's really and easy thing to do. Be careful when cutting as power saws love to gobble fingers.


It looks like I can set the depth of the cut on my makita compound mitre saw. With the laser and slide setup for the saw, I think this will be most consistent.

I thought mitre saws were not to cut through something. Looks like with a spacer to keep the 2x4 off the fence, I should be able to cut the 2x4 adequately, assuming the depth set feature works well and consistently.

Thanks!

 

[IndyIan]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Would one of those oscillating multi-tools or a Dremel be of use?

Also I have a couple chisels, but I'm not sure if they are the sharpest they could be. What's the best way to sharpen them to an optimum point? I have a knife sharpener, but a chisel is only half a blade, if it matters.

Thanks!

It matters a bit

. Do you have a 6"+ sharpening stone? Google what the edge of a chisel is supposed to be like, and then just free hand it. I can get a decent edge that way, good enough for softwood.
Probably simplest though, is just mark the piece with a square, and cut with your pull saw, and sand smooth.
What's the tenon for?

 

[ChrisW]

Are you cutting dimensional lumber? If you're trying to cut an exact 1x4 tenon on a non-dimensional 2x4, you would be cutting less material than one may think. But what others have said should work, and I agree setting up your compound miter saw would produce the most consistent results.

 

[expat]

Is it a sliding miter saw? If not, the cut will not have a consistent depth.

If you don't have a good chisel, you should be able to sand the Tennon cheaks smooth with rough sand paper.

 

[Pop_Rivit]

You want to cut a tenon. If you don't have the power equipment or a tenoning jig, then just use a plain old hand saw to make the cuts. Cut around the 2X4 to the proper depth on each side, and then cut the waste from the end. Clean up with a chisel and some sandpaper.

Simple.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: ChrisW
Are you cutting dimensional lumber? If you're trying to cut an exact 1x4 tenon on a non-dimensional 2x4, you would be cutting less material than one may think. But what others have said should work, and I agree setting up your compound miter saw would produce the most consistent results.


1x4 was just simplification for explaining what I wanted without knowing the term...

I will cut it exactly as needed to fit my application, and do the old measure twice, cut once bit. Since I can set the depth of my sliding compound mitre saw, that will be easiest I think. While I could notionally easily cut a straight line into the wide side of the 2x4 with a hand saw, I fear not getting the cut from the end inward correct and perfectly straight. The diablo fine blade on my mitre makes awfully smooth cuts that are perfect.

I have some tools, and what I have is good, but not every last thng to do woodworking correctly. That said, the set the depth and make lots of little cuts with a circular saw seems to be the standard approach for cutting a notch, so it should work fine.

I dont have a sharpening stone. I sharpen my knives on a steel in the knife block and/or one of the pull-through sharpeners...

 

[doitmyself]

Here's a You Tube video that shows the general idea. Very doable on a sliding miter saw. Slow, but who cares if you are just doing one or two. Watch how he cleans it up at the end.

You might want to practice on a scrap. Make sure the 2 x 4 is sitting square and flat on the table. 2 x4's may not be uniform in width, etc..

 

[Tempest]

Quote:
2 x4's may not be uniform in width, etc..

That is the main problem you will probably run into, depending how accurate your results need to be. Without square, flat stock (jointer / planer), cabinet grade joints are virtually impossible.

You will be referencing your cuts from the surfaces of the lumber and your cuts will be impacted by these imperfections. Every time you move the wood or reference a different side, you are using a different datum and reference plane.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: Tempest
Quote:
2 x4's may not be uniform in width, etc..

That is the main problem you will probably run into, depending how accurate your results need to be. Without square, flat stock (jointer / planer), cabinet grade joints are virtually impossible.

You will be referencing your cuts from the surfaces of the lumber and your cuts will be impacted by these imperfections. Every time you move the wood or reference a different side, you are using a different datum and reference plane.


For what Im doing, which is bracing that I can screw into for a window AC unit that we use for about two months a year, it will be fine. I have some 2x4s that lay flat on a flat floor, will measure twice, cut once, smooth, paint and it should be fine. Hopefully Ill find time over the long weekend!!