At least he didn't recommend spraying the rotor and pads lightly with cooking oil to stop squeals, helps to smooth out braking, impedes rotor surface rust, and makes the brakes & rotors last longer, and probably more. And same fella recommended coating the battery terminal post with heavy grease before making any connection which will make sure they will be easier to take off when battery replacement comes due next time.
Counter Guy Story
- Thread starter exranger06
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When I was 16, I did my first brake job. I had a bottle of CRC brake quiet just like that (it was blue) and put a ton of it on the front of the pad lining before I popped the caliper back on. There were no ill effects, but it wasn't until a couple years later that I discovered disc brake quiet went on the the back of the pad.
I just didn't know any better!
I just didn't know any better!
My BIL liked to have fun with the counter guys. Go ask them about the price of a water pump for a 1968 Volkswagen Beetle and see how long it takes.
Originally Posted By: Dave Sherman
My BIL liked to have fun with the counter guys. Go ask them about the price of a water pump for a 1968 Volkswagen Beetle and see how long it takes.
My BIL liked to have fun with the counter guys. Go ask them about the price of a water pump for a 1968 Volkswagen Beetle and see how long it takes.
Originally Posted By: Dave Sherman
My BIL liked to have fun with the counter guys. Go ask them about the price of a water pump for a 1968 Volkswagen Beetle and see how long it takes.
And after they can't find one, say well maybe it's a 1969...
(though not if he's a big guy)
My BIL liked to have fun with the counter guys. Go ask them about the price of a water pump for a 1968 Volkswagen Beetle and see how long it takes.
And after they can't find one, say well maybe it's a 1969...
(though not if he's a big guy)
And customer's wonder why I don't give out repair advice. The most I tell people on brakes is Ford recommends cleaning rotors in hot soapy water before you install them.
Wife and i went in and got some brake fluid from local chain auto store. Picked up bottle, went too counter, clerk says....
"Something leaking".....?
Umm.... no.... its brake fuild....
I would understand if it were some form of stop leak fluid....
Parts stores clerks humor me, and Im an idiot with some things.
"Something leaking".....?
Umm.... no.... its brake fuild....
I would understand if it were some form of stop leak fluid....
Parts stores clerks humor me, and Im an idiot with some things.
This coincides with 2 incidents as of late.
One was with a coworkers A/C system in Windstar Van.
I told him go buy a bottle of R-134a with a gauge on it knowing it had sealers in it. One can might actually be beneficial in his case. So after I verified the system was as I suspected completely empty I went to get 2 more cans free of sealer to bring it to spec.
The lady said loudly NO NO NO, YOU NEED THE CAN WITH SEALER!
No I don't I told her, I just want refrigerant, no sealer is needed in any A/C system just as loud. It does not come there from the factory and I don't want it in now.
She basically said OK as condescending as possible and rolled her eyes.
Autozone...
2nd was in Wal-mart granted he didn't ask for advice but anyone who used Prestone's Universal coolant I always say something. It isn't right especially for the M-benz he was going to pour it in.
One was with a coworkers A/C system in Windstar Van.
I told him go buy a bottle of R-134a with a gauge on it knowing it had sealers in it. One can might actually be beneficial in his case. So after I verified the system was as I suspected completely empty I went to get 2 more cans free of sealer to bring it to spec.
The lady said loudly NO NO NO, YOU NEED THE CAN WITH SEALER!
No I don't I told her, I just want refrigerant, no sealer is needed in any A/C system just as loud. It does not come there from the factory and I don't want it in now.
She basically said OK as condescending as possible and rolled her eyes.
Autozone...
2nd was in Wal-mart granted he didn't ask for advice but anyone who used Prestone's Universal coolant I always say something. It isn't right especially for the M-benz he was going to pour it in.
I just picked up a serpentine belt to do the wife's SUV this weekend, then told the guy might as well throw in the tensioner so I'll replace it while in there. He said I better get the serpentine belt on before my valves punch the pistons... huh?
Originally Posted By: Errtt
I just picked up a serpentine belt to do the wife's SUV this weekend, then told the guy might as well throw in the tensioner so I'll replace it while in there. He said I better get the serpentine belt on before my valves punch the pistons... huh?
In other words he doesn't know that a serpantine belt is not a timing belt. A broken timing belt can cause valves to crash into the pistons if the engine is interference type. My family learned this the hard way.
I just picked up a serpentine belt to do the wife's SUV this weekend, then told the guy might as well throw in the tensioner so I'll replace it while in there. He said I better get the serpentine belt on before my valves punch the pistons... huh?
In other words he doesn't know that a serpantine belt is not a timing belt. A broken timing belt can cause valves to crash into the pistons if the engine is interference type. My family learned this the hard way.
Originally Posted By: artificialist
Originally Posted By: Errtt
I just picked up a serpentine belt to do the wife's SUV this weekend, then told the guy might as well throw in the tensioner so I'll replace it while in there. He said I better get the serpentine belt on before my valves punch the pistons... huh?
In other words he doesn't know that a serpantine belt is not a timing belt. A broken timing belt can cause valves to crash into the pistons if the engine is interference type. My family learned this the hard way.
Yeah I told him I'll take care of it. Wished the other counter guy would have heard but he was busy on the phone.
I should have told him I was replacing the tensioner because it looks worn down and might skip time, so need a matched set. But I was going out the door when the thought hit me.
Originally Posted By: Errtt
I just picked up a serpentine belt to do the wife's SUV this weekend, then told the guy might as well throw in the tensioner so I'll replace it while in there. He said I better get the serpentine belt on before my valves punch the pistons... huh?
In other words he doesn't know that a serpantine belt is not a timing belt. A broken timing belt can cause valves to crash into the pistons if the engine is interference type. My family learned this the hard way.
Yeah I told him I'll take care of it. Wished the other counter guy would have heard but he was busy on the phone.
I should have told him I was replacing the tensioner because it looks worn down and might skip time, so need a matched set. But I was going out the door when the thought hit me.
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
There actuall IS a spray which goes on the rotors to supposedly stop; squeal/noise, grinding, etc., it is a silvery color, and I am SURE makes a MESS AND A HALF, IF it even works for a half hour of driving.
Maybe that is what your misinformed co-worker was thinking of (forgot if it is CRC, or someone else who makes this)??
If you mean the lubegard product, yes, this stuff actually works in the right situation.
If one chooses to replace pads and leaving rotors as is or replace or resurface rotors with existing pads in place it is very likely there will be an area on the rotors that doesn't contact the pads right away and will develop significant rust that will contract the pads causing a squeak as the pads wear in. Also, in some applications it is common for rust to begin on the area of the rotor not swept by the pads and then creep in in is sickly way underneath the swept area causing squeaks. This product inhibits the formation of rust on the non-swept area.
There actuall IS a spray which goes on the rotors to supposedly stop; squeal/noise, grinding, etc., it is a silvery color, and I am SURE makes a MESS AND A HALF, IF it even works for a half hour of driving.
Maybe that is what your misinformed co-worker was thinking of (forgot if it is CRC, or someone else who makes this)??
If you mean the lubegard product, yes, this stuff actually works in the right situation.
If one chooses to replace pads and leaving rotors as is or replace or resurface rotors with existing pads in place it is very likely there will be an area on the rotors that doesn't contact the pads right away and will develop significant rust that will contract the pads causing a squeak as the pads wear in. Also, in some applications it is common for rust to begin on the area of the rotor not swept by the pads and then creep in in is sickly way underneath the swept area causing squeaks. This product inhibits the formation of rust on the non-swept area.
Good thing you corrected him this time...he shouldn't be giving out advice if he doesn't know what he's doing. Unfortunately it sounds like he thinks he knows what he's doing, so this probably won't be the last bit of really bad advice he gives a customer.
Part of the problem is a lot of retail customers want you to tell them exactly how to do a repair, or to even help them do it in the parking lot. They don't know what they are doing at all, they just want to fix their car on the cheap. They expect you to be a mechanic and know everything about their car. I will sometimes give out very basic advice, but I will also tell people I am not a mechanic. When people are clearly in over their heads trying to diagnose something, I usually avoid giving any advice other than suggesting they have a mechanic look at it. A lot of people just want to throw parts at a car though and hope for the best before paying $80 to find out what's really wrong.
Part of the problem is a lot of retail customers want you to tell them exactly how to do a repair, or to even help them do it in the parking lot. They don't know what they are doing at all, they just want to fix their car on the cheap. They expect you to be a mechanic and know everything about their car. I will sometimes give out very basic advice, but I will also tell people I am not a mechanic. When people are clearly in over their heads trying to diagnose something, I usually avoid giving any advice other than suggesting they have a mechanic look at it. A lot of people just want to throw parts at a car though and hope for the best before paying $80 to find out what's really wrong.
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