I need a 3/8" hose and i can't find anywhere that has a 3/8 heater hose. I was told fuel line would work fine as woudl a trans cooler hose (more expensive). Is regular fuel line OK to use for coolant bypass filter? Worried about it rupturing or not being able to handle the heat.
Correct hose for coolant bypass filter
- Thread starter jdw1222
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McMaster-Carr has SAE J20R3 heater hose in that size for $3.71/ft. It's fancy blue silicone material. Look for part number 5133K22.
Just head to McMaster-Carr and drill down in the hoses section. They changed a bunch of part numbers so if you use the filters the site will show you what you're looking for.
I use Gates 3/8 heater hose in all of my kits.
6.0 kits are fairly simple to make. if you have the vaccum valve inline in the heater hose install your T fitting behind it. Not all trucks have this.
I think there is a pic of my kit in the july issue of diesel power magazine on a truck I built
6.0 kits are fairly simple to make. if you have the vaccum valve inline in the heater hose install your T fitting behind it. Not all trucks have this.
I think there is a pic of my kit in the july issue of diesel power magazine on a truck I built
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thanks for the responses. I did find the heater hose on line before but couldn't find it anywhere locally. The guy at the parts store was saying fuel line is fine to use in place of heater hose, you just can't use heater hose where fuel line is needed. i'll look for the gates, but just for refernce would the 3/8 fuel line work ok? plus, i mounted mine on the frame rail so i need about 14 feet of hose so at $4 a foot the silicone tsuff is a little pricey
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Yes the fuel line will work but it gets very plyable when heated.
I have many truck that have had the gates hose on since 2002 with no issues
I have many truck that have had the gates hose on since 2002 with no issues
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OK, I used Transmission cooler line. I will monitor it and possibly switch it to the gates if needed. Do you have any thoughts on whether a frame ounted filter will still provide the same beifit as one mounted up higher in the engine comaprtment?
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Assuming you're plumbed across the heater loop, you'll have some differential regardless of distance or suction/discharge head. Only the rate will vary.
The fear factor with temps is pretty much thrown out due to the relatively low pressure that most cooling systems can attain. The trans cooler line spec's ..or generic "hot oil" spec's fall into a couple of temps AT PRESSURE ..or a couple of pressures at temp ..or both on the higher side. Fuel line typically has pressure spec's that are much higher than cooling systems ..albeit at potentially the same temps.
It's like hydraulic line only having 212F temp spec's ..but at 3500 working pressure (I forget) and about 5000lbs burst spec's. Even at 300F they're not degraded enough to be a problem. CPCV in schedule 40 6" has a spec of 500+ psi ..@ 70F ..
The fear factor with temps is pretty much thrown out due to the relatively low pressure that most cooling systems can attain. The trans cooler line spec's ..or generic "hot oil" spec's fall into a couple of temps AT PRESSURE ..or a couple of pressures at temp ..or both on the higher side. Fuel line typically has pressure spec's that are much higher than cooling systems ..albeit at potentially the same temps.
It's like hydraulic line only having 212F temp spec's ..but at 3500 working pressure (I forget) and about 5000lbs burst spec's. Even at 300F they're not degraded enough to be a problem. CPCV in schedule 40 6" has a spec of 500+ psi ..@ 70F ..
JDW, the distance you have chosen really shouldn't be much of a factor. It's important to keep coolant returning as quickly as possible. I don't even mount mine on the frame rail so I can't give oil temp to coolant temp comparison. IMO a coolant bypass system is the single best mod you can do to the 6.0's. Your oil cooler will thank you as will your egr cooler.
Most people don't know that there is a blockage in the coolant return line for the engine that increases temps and is the major cause for cooler failure. The geniuse engineers at IH put a rather large U-Bend in the line where castings and debris gathers. I have removed oil coolers completely plugged with sand castings. 300 degree oil temps isn't real good on these trucks
Most people don't know that there is a blockage in the coolant return line for the engine that increases temps and is the major cause for cooler failure. The geniuse engineers at IH put a rather large U-Bend in the line where castings and debris gathers. I have removed oil coolers completely plugged with sand castings. 300 degree oil temps isn't real good on these trucks
Your 6.0 will see around 205. Oil temp should be no more the 10-15 degrees higher then the coolant temp. Anything more then 15 degrees and you have an EGR cooler issue or oil cooler plugged or both.
Thanks for all the help. I will be deleting the egr cooler shortly. Hopefully the oil cooler isn't plugged to bad yet.
Whats your toughts on the ball valves? They are only rated for 176 degrees. I am thinking they will be ok because they aren't used to withstand prssure of high temps closed, but just when changing the filter when system is not running.
Whats your toughts on the ball valves? They are only rated for 176 degrees. I am thinking they will be ok because they aren't used to withstand prssure of high temps closed, but just when changing the filter when system is not running.
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Are they WOG rated? (water, oil, gas) What's the seat material? It appears your valves can be used at the SWP(safe working pressure) rating @ 176F. If the seats and packing are PTFE (Teflon), the stuff is almost a solid at under 500F, so I imagine it's the thickness (for pressure AT that temp) and/or whatnot under durability of wear. That is, it's rated under the assumption of actual use as a working valve.
As a general guideline (not gospel handed down from the mountain cast in stone), most ratings are somewhat convertible. That is, you may exceed the temp rating if it's only a fraction of the pressure rating. There are, naturally, limits in either direction that you can sensibly go. Keep in mind that most ratings have substantial safety margins built in. For example code piping for steam typically has a 6:1 or 8:1 safety factor. Your 135psi line pressure piping can withstand about a 1000psi minimum before rupture.
SAE 100R16 Hydraulic Hose appears to have a 4:1 safety factor between working pressure and burst pressure at the 212F temp rating. At 100psi or less, that temp rating would be substantially elevated to any sensible engine oil temp.
look for table at bottom
As a general guideline (not gospel handed down from the mountain cast in stone), most ratings are somewhat convertible. That is, you may exceed the temp rating if it's only a fraction of the pressure rating. There are, naturally, limits in either direction that you can sensibly go. Keep in mind that most ratings have substantial safety margins built in. For example code piping for steam typically has a 6:1 or 8:1 safety factor. Your 135psi line pressure piping can withstand about a 1000psi minimum before rupture.
SAE 100R16 Hydraulic Hose appears to have a 4:1 safety factor between working pressure and burst pressure at the 212F temp rating. At 100psi or less, that temp rating would be substantially elevated to any sensible engine oil temp.
look for table at bottom
JDM, it's prolly a goos idea to replace the exchanger regardless. Be aware you will need custom tuning when you delete the egr cooler.
Ford now offers the Oil heat exchanger without needing the entire assembly. Price came down from about 600.00 to about 200.00 now. If you have a problem finding anything let me know. I either have it or can point you in the right direction to get what you need.
Also get the Gillett diesel Cooler delete. great product and great price
Ford now offers the Oil heat exchanger without needing the entire assembly. Price came down from about 600.00 to about 200.00 now. If you have a problem finding anything let me know. I either have it or can point you in the right direction to get what you need.
Also get the Gillett diesel Cooler delete. great product and great price
Thanks for all the help,
Gary alan, the ball valves are WOG , are made from brass and have a working pressure of 200wog and have teflon seats. so you think they are fine?
Dieseltech, is the exchanger the same thing as the oil cooler? I might look into that when i get everything else done. I already have tuning to turn off the EGR but am going to get the EGR cooler elimintated.
Gary alan, the ball valves are WOG , are made from brass and have a working pressure of 200wog and have teflon seats. so you think they are fine?
Dieseltech, is the exchanger the same thing as the oil cooler? I might look into that when i get everything else done. I already have tuning to turn off the EGR but am going to get the EGR cooler elimintated.
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Quote:
Gary alan, the ball valves are WOG , are made from brass and have a working pressure of 200wog and have teflon seats. so you think they are fine?
I would use them. You're not going to be putting any wear of merit on them opening and closing them all the time. Your pressure is going (probably) under 100psi. I think you'll be fine. Keep in mind that if you ever see weeping from the valve stem (in the distant future), that there's a packing nut to tighten before you buy a new valve. It's that flat skinny washer under the handle. Most can be rebuilt ..but they're so cheap now that it's not worth it ..if you can even find the parts (S&H and whatnot).
Gary alan, the ball valves are WOG , are made from brass and have a working pressure of 200wog and have teflon seats. so you think they are fine?
I would use them. You're not going to be putting any wear of merit on them opening and closing them all the time. Your pressure is going (probably) under 100psi. I think you'll be fine. Keep in mind that if you ever see weeping from the valve stem (in the distant future), that there's a packing nut to tighten before you buy a new valve. It's that flat skinny washer under the handle. Most can be rebuilt ..but they're so cheap now that it's not worth it ..if you can even find the parts (S&H and whatnot).
Yes you'll be looking for the oil cooler heat exchanger not the entire assembly.
Originally Posted By: jdw1222
thanks for all the help!
Dieseltech, is this the right part 3C3Z-6A642-CA . it is the oil cooler kit
Yes sir that is the correct exchanger!!
thanks for all the help!
Dieseltech, is this the right part 3C3Z-6A642-CA . it is the oil cooler kit
Yes sir that is the correct exchanger!!
I think I bought 3/8" heater hose at CarQuest. My coolant bypass filter gets too hot to touch, so I assume it gets about as hot as the coolant in the rest of the system. About 220 degrees F max on mine. (rural mail route delivery vehicle). It sure keeps the antifreeze clean. 
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