Cooling system bleeding

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Apr 28, 2007
Messages
2,789
Location
California, USA
I think I'm going to change out the coolant on a 99 chevy suburban w/ a 454 this weekend, but this is really a general question on something I've never really been sure of. In a standard open cooling system (i.e. the overflow tank is not pressurized/has a vent on its cap) and in the absence of special bleeder valves, how do you effectively bleed a cooling system?

I've done this to two cars previously. The 93 volvo has a closed system with a pressurized expansion tank. The thermostat housing has a bleeder hose coming out the top. Air bubbles are forced up through that hose into the expansion tank, forcing the coolant level down. In that car I just had to top it up a couple times and then the level remained constant. The 83 280zx had an open system and no bleeder valve that I knew about. IIRC all I did with that car was check the radiator level and expansion tank level after driving it a couple of times and just had to top it up a little. At the time I didn't know that bleeding the system was a requirement, but everything turned out fine.

I'm not really clear on what I have to do with this chevy. It's got an unpressurized expansion tank and a pressurized radiator cap. Is it sufficient to just leave the cap loose ("vent" position) and run the engine until it hits operating temperature? Seems like any air bubbles would get pumped through the system and come out the top when the thermostat opens up.

In any case it seems like there are going to be air bubbles stuck in the system until the thermostat opens up in the absence of a bleeder valve on the engine. Is this not a big deal?
 
Looks like that just lets you fill the coolant without watching the level in the radiator, right? Looks helpful but I don't really mind pouring the coolant in. I just want to make sure I get the air out of the system. Am I missing something?

Although that suggestion does imply that you think just letting the car run without the radiator pressure cap on will do the job as far as bleeding goes, right?
 
That is what I have always done and never had a problem. My mechanic said he hated replacing water pumps because he had to prime them. I have always simply left the cap off and filled as needed. Heater on full as well.

ref
 
I have a 98 Yukon with a 350. I just premix my antifreeze and water in a clean container, pour it in until it's full and then run the engine until the thermostst opens and I keep adding until it takes no more. Heater on...

You can also drill an 1/8" hole in your thermostat to bleed air. It will take coolant slowly before the stat opens.
 
Sounds good, I guess I'll just go with what I was planning then, unless I get too lazy to change out the coolant :)

byez: Good idea. I'm pretty sure on this engine the rad cap is the highest point aside from the expansion tank anyway, though.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom