Coolant inline filtration tested.

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This guy installer a filtration system on his VW Passat B3. After replacing heater core he found lots of crud inside the old one. Even though the coolant has been replaced by manufacturer recommended intervals. So he used a filtration system meant for boilers/water heaters and installed it on the heater core inlet side. Being the type of filtration system that it is, it's meant for higher temps and pressures than an average ICE. After about a week and less than 300 miles he replaced the filter 7 times until his coolant became as clear as new. The 1st filter split (upon first filter change) because he got the flow direction wrong. 6 filters after that were installed with correct flow direction and didn't split. After the clean up was done he removed the filtration housing and replaced with normal heater hose, until next clean-up is needed. Thoughts?

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The idea does make some sense, do you know what mesh/ particle size was on the filter.

The other interesting question is what is causing all these particles, I know when you mixed different coolants you can get some nasty reactions.

For example, GM's pink coolant and the older style Prestone coolant. I saw a blazer that look like gelatin!


You can also do a reverse flush on just the heater core using a small pump, or on the whole system!
 
The idea does make some sense, do you know what mesh/ particle size was on the filter.

The other interesting question is what is causing all these particles, I know when you mixed different coolants you can get some nasty reactions.

For example, GM's pink coolant and the older style Prestone coolant. I saw a blazer that look like gelatin!


You can also do a reverse flush on just the heater core using a small pump, or on the whole system!
Not sure about the particle/mesh, but will update when/if I find out. I personally had good luck with Prestone flush kit that let's you connect a garden hose to the heater core hose. I did that on a 1995 Chevrolet Tahoe and got quite a lot of rust/debris out. Obviously after the garden hose water I flushed the system with distilled water a couple times, before pouring in 50/50 mix of distilled water and Supertech universal coolant.
 
What are the manufacturer recommended intervals? Obviously, it wasn't enough and didn't work.

This is one of the reasons why I recommend and drain/refill the radiator and bottle every couple years or 30k max. Yes, even that factory fill 10 year coolant in all my cars has been dumped twice within 5 years. Partial, maintenance method works. And no, I don't use the OE coolant since the aftermarket equivalent work. I've notice no radiator, heatercore, or waterpump problems with the incrementals, that tends to be common on some makes/models/engines. For some engines, the waterpump or radiator replacement is the vehicles 1st coolant change. And, I've seen so many before 100k miles 10 years that its getting pretty sad, including the leaky waterpump that leads to a blown head gaskets.


And, there are always those inline thimble screens available at most speed shops, ebay.....
 
Wix 24019 filter base


Wix 24069 coolant filter, short

Wix 24070 coolant filter, long

Stay away from Wix 24071-24075, these filters have additives...
 
I bought a $200 filer for my boiler and I cannot get it attached so it does not leak. And a plumber installed it. I believe the boiler filter I got is to remove the iron particles from the boiler water. I was worried about clogging the kick heater.
 
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