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Boiling will kill most micro organisms. We wouldn't want the cooling system to catch giardia.
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coolant has to be 50/50? why
- Thread starter digitaldrifter91
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Distilled water costs 57 cents per gallon at a local wal-mart. Do the math.
DEWFPO
DEWFPO
If you are running Dex, you need 50/50 so that it won't fail. Most other coolants can be run in varying concentrations, depending on what conditions you are looking at.
I'm running Toyota Red at the lowest recommeded concentration, which is 25%, and that gets me down to 10F, which is all I need. You can go all the way to 70%, which will take you down to -84F.
[ January 28, 2004, 12:11 PM: Message edited by: VaderSS ]
I'm running Toyota Red at the lowest recommeded concentration, which is 25%, and that gets me down to 10F, which is all I need. You can go all the way to 70%, which will take you down to -84F.
[ January 28, 2004, 12:11 PM: Message edited by: VaderSS ]
Does the Prestone pre-mix coolant(already 50/50 mix ready to pour) contain distilled water. Anyone know?
Thanks.
Thanks.
50/50 mix of coolant and water will boil at 265 degrees Fahrenheit, at 15 PSI.
Good question. I trusted them more when they were still a part of Union Carbide then now as a sister company to Fram. The mineral content of the water is more important than exactly which process was used. Starting with a little iron may even be better. For the average person with hard water, distilled water from a store is a cheap and convenient source. For a big operation, it might pay to locate where the water comes in with little mineral content, next door to Coors or Rolling Rock. Otherwise deionization or reverse osmosis could produce acceptable water. I wonder if our labeling laws even require "distilled water" to actually be distilled.
I suspect much of the premixed stuff is going to top up leaky systems. In that case, mineral content is very important, much more important than if you leave the same water in for a couple of years. .
I suspect much of the premixed stuff is going to top up leaky systems. In that case, mineral content is very important, much more important than if you leave the same water in for a couple of years. .
They used to be called only antifreeze but stupid people thought it was just for the winter time so they ran water in the summer. They then started calling it coolant/antifreeze.
It could also be called antiboil. If you have any problems with your radiator fluid boiling, try more antifreeze. If not, stick to the 20/80.
I am studying to get ASE recertified on T2 Diesel Engines. The Mitchell Manuel I am studying says Extended Life coolants are premixed and should not be diluted. Anyone care to comment.
Mitchell needs to get out more. Extended life coolant is sold pre-diluted for people that like to be overcharged for a little distilled water, and undiluted for people who are capable of diluteing it themselves. Read the label on the coolant.
For your test, I recommend you regujitate back the crap that they fed you.
[ April 29, 2004, 11:08 PM: Message edited by: XS650 ]
I stand by my advice to somebody living in Florida. Should he venture North in the winter time, I think the 20% antifreeze would be enough to turn the coolant to slush. It wouldn't crack the block, but might clog the radiator with ice leading to over heating. Still a problem, but cheaper to fix if not driven overheated.
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I'm unsure why he does this ..but "deaerated water" is the life blood of any industrial boiler. The bubbles that you see forming on the bottom of the pot before it starts it's "rolling boil" are the free air molecules being released from the water. Cold water holds more oxygen than hot water. When these bubbles form on the tubes of a boiler they don't transfer heat and leave scale in their place, which, over time, pits the tube. So the boiler makers reuse the condensed steam that they transmitted and then add make up water (softened and often deionized - takes out pos and neg ions) and then use steam to preheat this water (requires very little steam since the returned condensate is hot) to raise the temp of that feed water above that "bubble formation" temp. The vessel that the plant condensate and the make up water is plumbed to is called a "deaerator". Most of your boiler chemical adds are intoduced in this stage.
He could be following that school of thought.
Btw- straight deionized water (not to be confused with deaerated) is not recommended for many applications since it has such a potential for ion attaction. That is, concrete will errode more with a drip of deionized water than regular tap water. Boilers naturally have chemical additives to prevent this as wellh as suspend any scale forming materials for removal via "mud blow down" that are created by the steam making process.
I've just heard G12 contains a true OAT (Organic Acid Technology) inhibitor package, where Dex-Cool uses OAT combined with some sort of conventional inhibitors. I know BASF makes what VW calls G11 (actually BASF G48) so I wonder if that's who makes what VW calls G12?
I tried running distilled water with Prestone Super Radiator Cleaner and only drove 3 miles before I saw my temp gauge climb like crazy. Once I put back a 50-50% mix, my temp gauge never went over the 1/2 mark.quote:
Originally posted by poweguy:
As far as heat transfer goes, water is much better at it than glycol. The specific heat # for water is 4.183kJ/kgdegreeCelcius and glycol is 2.67kJ/kgdegreeCelcius. Meaning that for every kg of fluid to rise or drop 1 celcius degree in temperature, the stated quantity of heat will be transfered.
To figure out the specific heat of any mixture, just throw the numbers into an equation by proportion.
ie .50(4.183)+.50(2.67)=3.4265kJ/kgdegreeCelcius
This is for a 50/50 mix.
The constituents in the jug of anti-freeze provide corrosion control,scaling control, freeze protection, pump lubrication etc. The strength you decide to use depends alot on the climate you live in and what service you put your vehicle to. I run 50/50 and take it in to a service center every 2 yrs. It's an easy doityerself, but I like to think that a reputable service center will ensure the waste doesn't impact the environment.
Anyone not using distilled water in their rad is asking for trouble. Hard water (containing salts of calcium and magnesium) will cause scale on the walls of the cooling passages and the passes of the rad. This is an excellent insulator and will reduce both heat absorbtion in the block and heat rejection in the rad. It may also contribute to blockage in the small bore radiator passages (like the ones in my arteries when I down a double cheeseburger and poutine). You gotta maintain that cooling system because, in my experience, gauges and lights indicate trouble as your ride is rolling to a stop on the shoulder with steam pukin' out from under the hood
discussed in more detail in this
thread.
Using distilled didn't cause your problem an air pocket did!
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Daily Drives:
-2003 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner XtraCab, 2.7 Liter , Mobil 1 Synthetic SS 5w30.
ODO 9600 Miles.
-1995 Toyota 4-Runner 3.0 V6, Mobil 1 Synthetic SS 10w30.
ODO 91800 Miles.
http://community.webshots.com/user/amkeer
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