My owner's manual calls for ethylene-glycol based coolant to protect the aluminum engine and recommends Toyota long life coolant. There is no mention of specific requirements in terms of OAT or HOAT or anything else. The only requirement is ethylene-glycol. Could I simply do a few drain/fills or flushes with an OTC universal all makes/models fluid? Or can I use plain old green coolant?
coolant for 2002 1MZ-FE
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I think you would be good either way...as long as you get all the old stuff out. IMO, most problems are caused by mixing different coolant chemistries.
If you use the traditional green you'll have to change it more often (every 2 years is usually required) whereas the EL's let you go a few years longer.
If you use the traditional green you'll have to change it more often (every 2 years is usually required) whereas the EL's let you go a few years longer.
A few years back I had a flush done at Merchant's and they put in Maxlife universal coolant. Nothing gone wrong yet. In the spring I'm doing a drain/fill w/ Advance Auto generic AM/AM stuff.
Get the Toyota coolant if you can afford it. The Toyota stuff is very good quality.
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Get the Toyota coolant if you can afford it. The Toyota stuff is very good quality.
+1, the toyota coolant is good stuff, stick with it.
Get the Toyota coolant if you can afford it. The Toyota stuff is very good quality.
+1, the toyota coolant is good stuff, stick with it.
Full strength Toyota LL red has been superseded by Toyota Super Long Life premix pink. For Toyota, despite the typical vague owners manual e-g recommendation an Asian P-(H)OAT would be the spec. Some LL red may be available but it's getting very expensive even compared to the SLL.
If you want to use Toyota SLL pink premix, best bet would be to just do a radiator d&f and shorten the next radiator d&f interval. It's compatible with the Toyota red, if that's what's in there now. The red is only a 2year/25-30k interval AF, the SLL a 5year/100k AF. But as it's a premix, combined with the LL red that would shorten the interval.
You 'could' do some distilled water d&f's till it runs about clear then use a full strength universal OAT or a low silicate green and distilled water.
Fwiw, I'm currently using Peak Global Lifetime in a 5VZ-FE engine, it came as full strength from Napa and topped off with distilled water to ~50% concentration.
If you want to use Toyota SLL pink premix, best bet would be to just do a radiator d&f and shorten the next radiator d&f interval. It's compatible with the Toyota red, if that's what's in there now. The red is only a 2year/25-30k interval AF, the SLL a 5year/100k AF. But as it's a premix, combined with the LL red that would shorten the interval.
You 'could' do some distilled water d&f's till it runs about clear then use a full strength universal OAT or a low silicate green and distilled water.
Fwiw, I'm currently using Peak Global Lifetime in a 5VZ-FE engine, it came as full strength from Napa and topped off with distilled water to ~50% concentration.
I plan on using Peak Global Lifetime in my 2008 Corolla when I drain the OE coolant this spring. I'll do a few fill and drains with reverse osmosis water before the final fill of PGL and distilled water.
My owners manual claims the OE fluid is good for 10 years/120K but I think 6 years/70K is long enough.
My owners manual claims the OE fluid is good for 10 years/120K but I think 6 years/70K is long enough.
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