coolant flush

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Hi all. This coming weekend I plan on flushing the coolant on the Max. Nissan's method of a coolant flush is to drain the old coolant through the drain plugs and fill the cooling system back up with water and run the engine to operating temps. Then drain the water and add new coolant. Of course it will take time for the engine and coolant to cool down before I can touch it. I was planning on draining and filling it back up with water, but I might have to do it in the late afternoon and finishing it the next day when the engine is cold. I was wondering is it okay to drive around with water in the system for a day?
 
I've done my Tacoma and my Altima. First off, I've used nothing but distilled H2O in the process, and kept the heater wide open. I've drained the radiator, refilled with water, run for a while to circulate then repeat the process a couple more times.

I'm going to post the link to what I followed to do my Tacoma. I followed the same basic method for the Altima. For both I used the Prestone Extended Life with no issues for either. I also threw in a small bottle of the mild Prestone Super Flush after the first drain. Both of my systems were in good shape, so that was just for good measure and optional IMO.

Just make sure you keep a close eye on the water level after the you refill and the thermostat opens and the 'burp' takes place. Keep that H2O level up.

One last thing. If you follow this method, since you will not be able to get all the water out of the engine block after the drain, buy the undiluted jug of antifreeze, not the 50/50 mix. Check the capacity of your system and I've added enough antifreeze to make it a 50% concentration. Same for recovery tank

I'm sure others may have a different way, such as one drain and 50/50 refill, all the way to finding the engine block drains, but this has worked for me. Yes it took some time, but it cooled down enough in a reasonble period of time, to finish in severals hours. Good Saturday project.

Hope this at least gives you some ideas, but definitely go with the distilled water. Good Luck!

Coolant flush and refill
 
I am not a big fan of flushing unless there is a specific problem.
A good drain and fill should be all you need.
This depends on if you let it go too long, or change it in a timely manner.
 
Originally Posted By: asiancivicmaniac
So what does the system cleaner do? Is it necessary?
I just figured it couldn't hurt. I read the ingredients and it seemed very benign, something like citric acic. As I said, optional. I'll post the link and you can read the Prestone hype.

As has been said, it just depends on how much you want to flush out and how clean/dirty your system is. Understand though that if you just do the one and done radiator, there's still lots in the block. But, if you just do that you can buy the 50/50 mix and refill. Certainly faster and easier.

As an aside, when I used to do this I used a Prestone flushing T kit. But, cutting a heater hose got old, plus the water was not distilled. That's why I've done it the way I posted the last couple times.

Prestone 10 min. Super Flush
 
I've always followed that method.

I drain the radiator and the engine block, refill with Prestone Super Radiator Flush and run the engine for 45 minutes. Then I drain the entire system again, fill with water, and run the car again. I do two water rinses.

You do not need to wait until the car cools down. You can drain it when its hot. Just open the peacock valve first, then open the radiator cap.

Be sure to use distilled water for the final fill. Also use caution when you loosen/remove the radiator peacock valve. Some of them are brittle. Some of them have a "track" that you must follow when you turn or else they'll leak once you rev up the engine.
 
Originally Posted By: asiancivicmaniac
Are you sure I won't scald myself?
Just take an old thick towel or cloth (folded over two or three times) and gradually open the cap until the pressure is released. I've never scalded myself. Just take your time and be careful. The water will be warm, but you should be fine. That's the best I can tell you.
 
Perhaps you should just take it to a shop and have it done with the machine. That's what I'm doing next time. For $70 it isn't worth the mess or the aggravation for me to do it myself.
 
Originally Posted By: Steve S
does the radiator look crusty when you look into it? If not just change the coolant with out the flush.

If he doesn't know what coolant is in there right now, he should flush it out. You should not mix coolants.
 
Come on now! That's not the BITOG spirit. Especially when the undiluted Prestone is going for 10 bucks. Distilled water is inexpensive. He can get out of it for less than half of the $70.00

And besides if I remember reading right, he's in college and needs to save some coin. Good learning experience if you ask me.

Anyway, let us know what you decided and how it worked out.
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Perhaps you should just take it to a shop and have it done with the machine. That's what I'm doing next time. For $70 it isn't worth the mess or the aggravation for me to do it myself.


I would but don't have the dough right now. The car got towed last Friday and it took $151 to get it back. So I'm borderline broke right now. Trying to do whatever diy I can. I have 1.5 gallons of Honda Type 2 left and just bought some Zerex G-05.
 
G-05 can be used with the old green antifreeze or DexCool. You can drain a gallon of the current antifreeze and add a gallon of G-05. Now if you have no idea of what is in the cooling system currently, then maybe 2 or 3 drain and refills of distilled water, then go for the G-05.
 
I was going to give in and take it to have a shop do it, but the drain and fill with distilled water sounds like a good idea. Supposedly the engine drain plugs are hard to remove so draining and filling the radiator should be easy. I have a gallon of g-05 concentrate too so no need to mix it if I have water in the block right?
 
Look on the Amsoil website to see total capacity for your vehicle. You are in Florida so not a big worry of you do not get 50/50. But kind of measure what you get out of the radiator drain so you know you can get the gallon of G-05 back in. Sometimes squeeze some hose to get more out.

Engine drain plugs are typically brass in a cast iron block. Usually easy to find if you have clearance as they pretty much need to be just above the oil pan mating seam. However if not removed in a year or two they can be corroded in and with the bronze plug being soft it may ruin the hex/square on the plug before it comes out. For boats where they are opened every winter to drain the engine, usually not a big deal, other than you cannot really see them, you are upside down and need to feel for them and open them not dropping the plug or wrench into the bilge.
 
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