Coolant Filter Orientation and Options?

[kd5byb]

Good morning all and Happy New Year!

Did some work on mounting a coolant filter in my 2007 Toyota Tundra this morning in the cold. Actually, it's not bad, as I have the torpedo heater running to keep the chill off.

Well, it turns out the place I had selected for my coolant filter was a little smaller than I had hoped for. I can mount the filter with the base up/filter down, but I don't have enough room to change the filter.

Now, if I can mount the filter at about a 45 degree angle, still base up/filter down, I can get it in there plus have room to change the filter. Anyone know if you can mount a coolant filter at an angle? Or even sideways?

It would seem to be that anything besides a pure base up/filter down position would trap air, rendering the filter at least partially useless.

Then I remembered seeing an inline filter in Jegs that would definitely fit. It's by VE-Labs (Vehicle Enhancement Labs) and is a small, almost fuel-filter looking device that plugs inline to your heater core. The filter element appears to be sintered brass and it appears to be cleanable.

Anyone ever use one of these? It's got to be better than nothing, but I can see where it wouldn't be as good as a NAPA cartridge filter.

I'd post a link to Jeg's, but I'm pretty sure that's prohibited. Go to Jeg's, type "coolant filter" into the search and its the first result.

thanks much!
ben

 

[Gary Allan]

Quote:
It would seem to be that anything besides a pure base up/filter down position would trap air, rendering the filter at least partially useless.


Hook up and run system with filter installed in air purging position. Turn off engine. Fasten mount in proper location.

..but beyond that..many filters are inverted and don't seem to mind the orientation ...oil included. I would imagine that the air would end up getting purged just like it does from higher mounted heater cores and whatnot.

Look at it this way. Let's say the bubble stays put. Eventually the lower media will become saturated and force the coolant to a higher level in the filter. This will then push the bubble into more into the center tube where it will eventually be entrained into the coolant stream.

 

[kd5byb]

Hi Gary and gang,

I think I found a solution. Seems that NAPA head has a 11/16"-16 thread and can take a shorter filter, specifically a Wix 24083. It's about a full inch shorter than the 24070 filter I bought with the head, so I think I can mount this in the vertical position with the filter hanging down without having a problem servicing it.

Only problem is that the 24083 is nearly $40 at Fleet Filter. But then again, it's an Extended Service Interval filter so perhaps it will last as long as the coolant in the truck (100k initial fill, 60k after that).

Also found some horror stories about the VE-Labs inline filter. It has a clear plastic or glass section, not sure which, where you can see the debris being collected. Only problem is that one guy had it develop a crack, which left him stranded. I think I'll stick to something that's proven technology...

thanks much,
ben

 

[BarkerMan]

Check to see if your coolant filter has built in chemicals to be released as you drive. If the filter is sized for a much larger system you're going to float away in chemicals that will overwhelm your system.

 

[kd5byb]

Very good point! I did make sure to pick additive-free filters, but it's worth mentioning that a lot of coolant filters have additives in them designed for large, diesel engines. Neither the 24070 or the 24083 I'm thinking about have chemical additives.

To be honest, I'm more worried about chemical compatibility than I am with amount with filters that have chemicals. I keep reading here that the Toyota pink is pretty strange stuff and I'm sure that any chemical additives in the filters will do more harm than good.

thanks much,
ben

 

[Gary Allan]

Quote:
24083 is nearly $40 at Fleet Filter.


That filter was $80 at NAPA

I then picked up the 24070 for about $7.

 

[Bill Plock]

The WIX 24070 cross references to the the Baldwin B5134 which I installed on my Duramax Diesel .. These also come in a short version - Baldwin B5089 or WIX 24069 .. Like the B5134 and 24070 they also cost about $7 each. These filters are less expensive but need to be changed annually vs. the more expensive "long life" 150Kmi versions (WIX 24083 & Baldwin B5088 and their long versions WIX 24084 & Baldwin B5090)

 

[kd5byb]

Hi Bill,

Very sweet install and thanks for the tip on the 24069! Going to see if I can find one at the local NAPA as Fleet Filter doesn't list it.

thanks much!
ben

 

[kd5byb]

Hey Bill - question on your install. The reducing tees that go into the heater hoses - where did you get these? Right now I'm thinking about using 5/8" heater hose to go to my filter base as that's the size of the heater hoses on my Tundra. But, 5/8" hose is hard to work with. Needs to be almost a straight shot from the heater hoses to the filter base.

Sure wouldn't mind smaller hose - easier to work with and I probably could put the filter where it would be easier to change...

thanks much,
ben

 

[Bill Plock]

Ben,

I also didn’t want to use 5/8 hose for the bypass lines... found the 5/8 x 3/8 x 5/8 Tees at Napa - PN 660-1484
(there is a picture on the second page of the install link above)

(Click to enlarge)
The part number is listed on http://www.napaonline.com

I also had a hard time finding 3/8 heater hose so for the initial install I used 3/8 transmission cooler hose, which seemed to work OK. In the mean time I ordered a 25 foot roll of Gates 3/8 heater hose and installed it when doing the first annual filter change. The heater hose has a different core liner than the transmission hose .. not sure if it would matter long term but I feel better having the correct type of hose in there (confessions of an ultra anal engineer type

). I’ve been running the filter on the truck for 5 years now and every time it’s changed I still find some residue & black scale inside.

 

[Bill Plock]

Ben,

One other thought ... if you can't find the WIX short filter locally, adiesel.com has a listing for the Baldwin version - B5089

 

[kd5byb]

Hi Bill,

Thanks much for two very helpful posts! I found that Amsoil sells the WIX 24069, so I'll probably piggy-back the 24069 onto my next order with them.

We probably need to start an ultra-anal engineer club, as I'm the same exact way. Tranny hose is probably good enough, but it would bug me to no end as well!

I will check my local NAPA for the tee's.

But now that I think about it, one of the nice benefits of the B5089/24069 short filter is that I can mount the filter base/filter with a straight shot to the two heater core lines and it almost doesn't matter if I use 3/8" line or the 5/8" line. Don't need much flexibility now that I can mount it with a straight shot to the tee's on the heater core lines.

THANKS MUCH!
-ben

 

[SHOZ]

Is there a good small add on filter for 3/8" hose? I have the two coolant lines that heat the TB and would like to use them.

 

[bcossa2001]

If your car does not have a coolant filter specified how do you know which one to buy??? Obviously you must buy one that fits the threads but after that how do you know what to buy?? It would suit me to buy a less expensive filter and change annually but I don't know where to start.

 

[bcossa2001]

Ok, I think I answered my own question by reading the posts above it.

My 2003 Town & Country appears to run hot water through the heater core all of the time--at least, both of the hoses are hot and I do not see a valve. I also followed the hoses to the rear of the car and both hoses were hot there too....

If this is the case, is there any reason that I shouldn't (couldn't) put a coolant filter inline of one of the hoses, rather than plumbing the cooler across the 2 heater hoses??

 

[Alternator]

At least you'll know when to change it when the heater stops working. Also, be careful with the ESI filters. They clog up alot more easily than the regular $7-a-pop versions, too. That is an expensive way to find out you have a dirty cooling system.

 

[bcossa2001]

10-4...looks like I'll stay with the bypass. I found a place to mount the filter but can't find any straight lengths of heater hose for the tee. Everything is curved.

I could possibly mount it beneath the car (there are empty "compartments" at the frame rails) at the rear heater hoses but then the new hoses would be right by the muffler....

Think it would hurt anything (i.e. upset the chemistry of the coolant) if I used copper or galvanized lines by the muffler???