I remebering reading on here that oil doesn't go bad so it should be changed according to miles vs months. Is that same true for coolant, ex 10yr/100k or 5yr/150interval...what if the time is due but mileage is much lower, should it still be changed
coolant change based on years/mileage
- Thread starter ugabulldog
- Start date
- Status
Well, that's kind of why they have the time/mileage figures.. why they call it "5yr/150k mile" antifreeze, and not just "150k mile" antifreeze. Could you go longer than 5 years, if you only put 10,000 miles on it in that time? Yeah, probably.. but at what risk?
You're obviously asking for a reason - What reason is that?
You're obviously asking for a reason - What reason is that?
Yes it should still be changed. Those numbers are "either/or" meaning whichever passes first, it should be changed. I think the operating conditions (e.g. excessive heat) play a big part in the breakdown of coolant but these fluids are cheap and not worth taking far beyond their recommended service intervals.
Ok, I will change it. reason or asking is I have 50k on Toyota truck which is 11 years old. and has super long life 100k coolant from factory.,.... but along the same lines, it is my understanding oil should only be changed once a yr if only driven 5k per year it is my understanding?
Last edited:
Yeah, after 11 years in that engine, even with only 50k miles on it, that coolant is almost certainly shot.
Think of it this way, if your car has a 3yr/36,000 mile warranty, it's up after 3 years even if you only drove it 1000 miles. Time always takes its toll.
Drain the coolant, flush the system, and refill with some good fresh stuff. Your truck will thank you.
Think of it this way, if your car has a 3yr/36,000 mile warranty, it's up after 3 years even if you only drove it 1000 miles. Time always takes its toll.
Drain the coolant, flush the system, and refill with some good fresh stuff. Your truck will thank you.
Originally Posted By: SirTanon
Yeah, after 11 years in that engine, even with only 50k miles on it, that coolant is almost certainly shot.
Think of it this way, if your car has a 3yr/36,000 mile warranty, it's up after 3 years even if you only drove it 1000 miles. Time always takes its toll.
Drain the coolant, flush the system, and refill with some good fresh stuff. Your truck will thank you.
I totally agree.
Toyota Pink is a great P-HOAT coolant so I doubt you've caused any harm.....having said that I would save some $$$ and replace it with OEM pink from Pepboys or even Peak Global Life if you can find the concentrate (to enable doing a proper flush). I've been running PGL in my 2008 Corolla without an issue....
Yeah, after 11 years in that engine, even with only 50k miles on it, that coolant is almost certainly shot.
Think of it this way, if your car has a 3yr/36,000 mile warranty, it's up after 3 years even if you only drove it 1000 miles. Time always takes its toll.
Drain the coolant, flush the system, and refill with some good fresh stuff. Your truck will thank you.
I totally agree.
Toyota Pink is a great P-HOAT coolant so I doubt you've caused any harm.....having said that I would save some $$$ and replace it with OEM pink from Pepboys or even Peak Global Life if you can find the concentrate (to enable doing a proper flush). I've been running PGL in my 2008 Corolla without an issue....
I bought zerex Asian formula, will drain and refill, not planning on flushing.
Corrosion doesn't care if you drive the car or not. Different metals sitting in a water-based solution will tend to corrode, which slowly uses up the corrosion inhibitors as they prevent those reactions from happening. Eventually there's not enough active inhibitors left and the engine begins to rust inside. Leave it long enough and your coolant becomes a foul rusty mud and the heat transfer surfaces develop insulating deposits. Then the radiator can't remove heat from the coolant as well, and the coolant can't remove heat from the engine as well.
I highly suggest you flush, or at least use a hose to blow down through the radiator and block. My system looked spotless inside and coolant was still mostly original color, but a fair amount of little flakes and fine grit came out of both when I ran water through.
I highly suggest you flush, or at least use a hose to blow down through the radiator and block. My system looked spotless inside and coolant was still mostly original color, but a fair amount of little flakes and fine grit came out of both when I ran water through.
Originally Posted By: ugabulldog
I bought zerex Asian formula, will drain and refill, not planning on flushing.
The only problem with doing a D&R is that you only replace a percentage of the old coolant....sometimes only about half. If you D&R a few times with distilled water, running it until the T-stat opens....you will eventually have almost all distilled water...then you can drain it and fill with concentrated coolant (like PGL) figuring what is needed for a 50/50 mix.....that's what I do....
I bought zerex Asian formula, will drain and refill, not planning on flushing.
The only problem with doing a D&R is that you only replace a percentage of the old coolant....sometimes only about half. If you D&R a few times with distilled water, running it until the T-stat opens....you will eventually have almost all distilled water...then you can drain it and fill with concentrated coolant (like PGL) figuring what is needed for a 50/50 mix.....that's what I do....
how do you know how much water is left after flush, so you know how much concentrate/water to add?
Originally Posted By: ugabulldog
how do you know how much water is left after flush, so you know how much concentrate/water to add?
Measure how much coolant you drain out. Use both the radiator drain cock and the block drain port. Compare that to the system capacity as listed in the owner's manual. The difference will be how much liquid will be left inside.
how do you know how much water is left after flush, so you know how much concentrate/water to add?
Measure how much coolant you drain out. Use both the radiator drain cock and the block drain port. Compare that to the system capacity as listed in the owner's manual. The difference will be how much liquid will be left inside.
Originally Posted By: VeryNoisyPoet
Corrosion doesn't care if you drive the car or not. Different metals sitting in a water-based solution will tend to corrode, which slowly uses up the corrosion inhibitors as they prevent those reactions from happening.
Yes, but higher temperatures such as operating the engine, speeds up those corrosion reactions.
Corrosion doesn't care if you drive the car or not. Different metals sitting in a water-based solution will tend to corrode, which slowly uses up the corrosion inhibitors as they prevent those reactions from happening.
Yes, but higher temperatures such as operating the engine, speeds up those corrosion reactions.
Originally Posted By: ugabulldog
how do you know how much water is left after flush, so you know how much concentrate/water to add?
After a distilled flush series you don't to know how much water is left in the block, just need to know the total system capacity. When the radiator drain liquid runs about clear, then you're ready to add the AF. Assuming normal 50% concentration desired, use half of the system capacity amount and fill with that much 'concentrated' AF and top up with distilled water. If you have a non pressurized recovery tank (drained), put a 50/50 mix in it after radiator done. You're finished. After some cycling may want to make sure radiator and recovery tank at correct level, top up as needed.
System capacity can be found in OM. Or at Amsoil Online Product Application Guide. I prefer the older Amsoil format linked. Enter year and click build list to complete.
https://www.amsoil.com/AmsoilGarage/internal/vehiclelookuppage.aspx
how do you know how much water is left after flush, so you know how much concentrate/water to add?
After a distilled flush series you don't to know how much water is left in the block, just need to know the total system capacity. When the radiator drain liquid runs about clear, then you're ready to add the AF. Assuming normal 50% concentration desired, use half of the system capacity amount and fill with that much 'concentrated' AF and top up with distilled water. If you have a non pressurized recovery tank (drained), put a 50/50 mix in it after radiator done. You're finished. After some cycling may want to make sure radiator and recovery tank at correct level, top up as needed.
System capacity can be found in OM. Or at Amsoil Online Product Application Guide. I prefer the older Amsoil format linked. Enter year and click build list to complete.
https://www.amsoil.com/AmsoilGarage/internal/vehiclelookuppage.aspx
Based on this, I could still use 50/50 premix since I am adding 50/50 concentrate/water anyway? Also, I found a tech bulletin from Toyota that just recommends draining from block via drain plugs on each side of block. I am leaning towards this route vs a flush.
Last edited:
If you're going to use a 'premix", ignore my previous post. That method only works with concentrated AF like PB OEM concentrate, older Toyota Red AF or something like PGL concentrate.
If you're going to use a premix like pink SLL, you'll will 'have' to find and use block drains for complete flush and refill. Otherwise water left in block will dilute the premix to below 50% concentration AF. The SLL premix likely why block drains mentioned in bulletin.
Besides the cost factor of half water premix, not having to mess with block drains another major reason concentrated AF is preferable imo.
If you're going to use a premix like pink SLL, you'll will 'have' to find and use block drains for complete flush and refill. Otherwise water left in block will dilute the premix to below 50% concentration AF. The SLL premix likely why block drains mentioned in bulletin.
Besides the cost factor of half water premix, not having to mess with block drains another major reason concentrated AF is preferable imo.
I am having trouble finding block drains, maybe it would be easier to just do a flush. Does anyone have a link to how to do a flush?
Last edited:
Try googling " block drain". Somebody should know where it is.
Here's a video that shows a quick flush method. It shows a method of using the water pump and a quick rev to eject additional water from the system, though I personally don't like the idea of running an engine without coolant at all. The anti-rust additive shown also isn't needed.
Distilled water is best, since the minerals in tap water can encourage scale and corrosion and eat up some inhibitors right off the bat.
Here's a video that shows a quick flush method. It shows a method of using the water pump and a quick rev to eject additional water from the system, though I personally don't like the idea of running an engine without coolant at all. The anti-rust additive shown also isn't needed.
Distilled water is best, since the minerals in tap water can encourage scale and corrosion and eat up some inhibitors right off the bat.
From what I gather, most people are referring to a "flush" as doing a drain, fill, and run, a few times.
Yes, but it depends on how bad things are. If you have rusty mud in the system, you may need several rounds to get the junk out. Sounds like your system should still be in good shape so you don't need to be as aggressive.
- Drain out old
- fill with distilled + flush chemical
- run it for a few days
- drain out distilled + flush chemical
- Rinse out with distilled
- Fill with new antifreeze
- Drain out old
- fill with distilled + flush chemical
- run it for a few days
- drain out distilled + flush chemical
- Rinse out with distilled
- Fill with new antifreeze
thanks everyone, I plan on doing a flush,is adding distilled water and running thru system, draining, a few times just as good as on using a flush chemical?
Last edited:
- Status