Convincing opinion for ST conventional

[650NutKase]

After seeing this, it makes me want to change to using ST conventional exclusively. My f150 and Corolla are not oil picky and as long as the varnish and sludge dont start using 5k intervals, I think it is worth the savings. Opinions?

https://youtu.be/Mszr6YDZeiA

 

[csandste]

Agree completely AND since it's SN or SN+ it's really a blend even if they call it conventional.

 

[krismoriah72]

I dont think hes lying.. here is a video of him from 5 years ago using the same oil..

 

[andyd]

Guy speaks truth I added 200k miles using Super Tech 20w50 dino to a car with 150 K on it . Good as it needs to be.

 

[JLTD]

AND you may be able to go 10k miles depending on your driving habits. Dnewton3 has gone 15k on conventional....with very good results.

I'm running Amsoil right now to investigate long intervals; even though I hate WM I may consider this course of action when my stocks run out.

 

[Cujet]

Originally Posted by JLTD
AND you may be able to go 10k miles depending on your driving habits.



Or you may experience what so many others have, where everything is just fine, right up until it isn't:

 

[Cujet]

Originally Posted by 2012AccentSE
After seeing this, it makes me want to change to using ST conventional exclusively. My f150 and Corolla are not oil picky and as long as the varnish and sludge dont start using 5k intervals, I think it is worth the savings. Opinions?

https://youtu.be/Mszr6YDZeiA


Both your F150 and your Corolla are known to have oil related issues. Choose a quality synthetic and change it regularly.

The cam phasers on your F150 are very sensitive to oil quality, particulates and oil pressure. The oil pump tends to leak on the 5.4, and over time the cam bearings suffer. Thin oil leaks faster. The cam chains tend to wear more rapidly with lower viscosity and higher soot. Owners who don't care often have trouble before 100K. Makuloko has some informative 5.4L videos on youtube.

The Corolla has very small oil drain holes on the pistons along with low tension piston rings. The use of conventional oil is risky on those engines. As they tend to coke up over time, at which point, the engine starts to consume oil. Blowby increases rapidly and damage occurs. For sure, not everybody experiences the problem. But there is a commonality among those who do. Conventional oil use.

 

[Snagglefoot]

Naw, just some guy in a wife beater T Shirt. Call me when he has 300,000 miles. Yawn.

But thanks for the post; gets the discussion going.

 

[Silverado12]

Yeah, the Corolla engine can stick rings and then they score the cylinder. It's best to baby those w/ synthetic at 5K miles oil changes. Same w/ Ford Modular cam phasers; they need clean, good quality oil.

 

[blupupher]

With the ST Synthetic being just ~$3 more/jug, I would (and probably will) just get the syn over conventional.
But as mentioned, pretty much any SN+ oil these days will do very well in most applications.

 

[silveravant]

Yes, you can save the same as about several gallons of gas. Why? Oil is cheap. Five quarts of Mobile 1, or Super tech syn is less than $25.

 

[tig1]

In the end it's cheaper to use a quality synthetic for 10K OCIs than dino for 5K OCIs.

 

[wemay]

ST is a quality oil. As stated before, a blend if it's SN Plus and not your grandfather's Conventional oil.

 

[blupupher]

Originally Posted by tig1
In the end it's cheaper to use a quality synthetic for 10K OCIs than dino for 5K OCIs.

But many are not comfortable going 10,000 miles regardless of oil, or for warranty reasons, or are driving in severe conditions, or have motors that have issues with longer OCI.

 

[StevieC]

I think for regular run of the mill econo-boxes not TGDI, doing regular driving ST-Conventional is fine changed at a reasonable interval. I'd go ST-synthetic in more demanding application or depending on climate. (This guy is in Vegas, not Canada/Alaska).

The other thing I would point out is that some of use the more expensive oils because we are in persuit of long OCI's to have the convenience of excellent protection over that period of time while actually having a lower cost per OCI when it's extended greatly past what is possible for typical synthetics, and having the benefit of less frequent changes.

I'm not saying everyone needs to use Boutique oil like myself but that there are different needs and different applications and a blanket statement that ST-Conventional fits all needs is ridiculous. Especially in TGDI applications which all vehicles seem to be trending toward. Now ST-Synthetic so long as it meets the requirements, sure.

 

[Jimzz]

Its fine but I would use the high mileage version. Better additive package with good base.

 

[650NutKase]

I am very aware of the phaser issues in the 5.4 3 valves and the intake cam phaser in the toyota, but so far, both have been good on cheap, clearance oil. The toyota is exhibiting the start up rattle and has been for a while, especially in the cold, but what I have seen is no metal specks in the oil and only a UOA will tell me the truth. What I have read indicates that the noise is just that, noise. No additional wear metals are actually getting into the oil. I do 5k regardless of what kind of oil because of the cleanliness needed in both. What I meant about oil picky, is that neither of them burn or leak oil and the UOA on the f150 has come back as good as it can get, again, only going 5k. The issue is since the truck takes 7qts, higher tier oil such as M1 or PP, etc. are not as economically viable as a cheaper alternative. This is how I think anyways. I guess in my mind, that little extra saved can be used for something else.

 

[benjy]

for the small cost difference a group III highly refined "synthetic" is a good value, super-tech prolly good enough for all but very hard use. i don't use any "thin" oils as they get thinner with fuel seepage on todays DI engines which i won't buy, girlfriends 13 malibu 2.5 is + it "likes" oil at only 60 thou so started using 5-40 + its doing better!!

 

[slacktide_bitog]

For only a few dollars more, you can use ST syn for 10k. Toyota says 10k with synthetic, 5k with dino.

 

[D.K.]

Originally Posted by tig1
In the end it's cheaper to use a quality synthetic for 10K OCIs than dino for 5K OCIs.


especially if you use a good filter for 20000 miles. a XG16 cost me $8 at Rural King, I run it 20000 miles. Change the oil after 10000 miles. An OIl change cost about $15 bucks with synthetic Lubrigold 5w30.