Concrete Work

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JHZR2

JHZR2

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I an contemplating putting in something like an 8x2.5' concrete pad. Something to hold two split AC condensers side by side perhaps.

I've never done concrete work but imagine this may be too small a job for many pros.

We are contemplating redoing our driveway in an aggregate, but I don't think the time frames line up with when we want the pad.

Any good tips? I want it to more or less be like a sidewalk but raised 1-2" from the nearby soil. I would frame it with 2x4s and then pour into the area, possibly over rebar which I guess is overkill, but if I'm DIY, labor is free so why not?

What about concrete? Is quickrete or similar from the stores mixed in a bucket or rental mixer really the same as if I got some from a real concrete truck?

Can you get a really small batch, like at the end of the day, or end of their run?

Not to be cheap or do lousy work, but could one make a pad from cinderblocks if the ground they would be placed into was perfectly flat?

I don't mind pourin a few smaller, independent pads immediately nex to each other if it would prevent cracking. Is this advisable?

Thanks!
 
This would be an excellent learning experience. Two 4' x 2.5' is diy possible, since you want control joints to take care of possible cracks. Lots of diy advice available.

Things I learned:

Prepare the base. Remove all sod and organic soil. Put in sand base for drainage and because it tamps down (unlike clay soil).

Oil the boards for easier removal.

Have the correct tools to form edges and joints.

Don't mix the "Sakrete" too wet. A VERY common mistake. You want it(what seems) on the dry side.

Rebar is not necessary. There is fence like material and holders that suspend it in the middle of the 4 inch thickness.

Don't overwork the final finish, or you will get a weak surface.

Keep it moist and/or apply a suitable sealer so it doesn't dry too fast = weak concrete.

Getting "left over" for a small batch? Maybe, if you coordinate with a local project. BUT, if concrete stays too long in the mix truck, it looses it's "slump", or consistency and it turns out weak.

This is definitely a "sweat equity" type of project. Check out the cost of time and materials vs. buying a minimum load quantity.
 
Some places sell small amounts of concrete that you bring home in a trailer. A better option is finding an mix on site service. They use a special truck that mixes the amount you need on site.

A bag of quikcrete is not much, it would be a lot of bags.

Finishing a small area is not difficult but you'll need to buy a few floats. If you don't want a real nice finish you could probably read about it get it done. Having someone with a little experience show you will make it a lot easier.


Call around, someone might take it as a side job or a handyman could do it for you.

It's not as small and inexpensive as you'd think. You have to clear and dig an area. The set forms that are level and sloped correctly. Concrete sets at the same rate if it's 1 yard or 10 so the finisher still has to babysit the mud for several hours.
 
I was in the Concrete buisness for some time a while back. Some quick advice, if at all possible, use pre cast pads. Much cheaper. Other than that, it is going to cost much more than you think, even if you do the labor yourself. PM me if you want some of my more in depth thoughts.
 
Personally, I would pour two 4'x2.5'pads.
Remove the sod and make your 2x4 form so that the top of your form is the required height above lawn level.

Mix pad#1 from regular concrete mix (NOT mortar mix or Post mix) in a wheelbarrow, It's hard work , but you are not mixing much.
Pour to the top of the form then work it to ensure there is no trapped Air pockets.
Float the surface ( you can make a basic float fron a 10"x 4"board with a handle attached.)
You will then need to Finnish the edges of the pad, inside the form, with a concrete edging tool, they only cost about $5
Let this sit for about 2 days ( Not in hot sun!!) before you remove the 2x4 forms.

The second pad can then be poured along side the first pad,using perhaps a thin fibre board as a division between the pads. The other 3sides can be formed with 2x4 the same as pad 1
If these pads are a full 3 1/2" thick on a reasonable good footing, you should not have problems with cracking.
Good luck :)
 
Dad always used linseed, but engine oil works OK.

Around here "crusher dust" makes a good substrate.

If you want reinforcing (good idea), then for stuff like this, lay a half thickness, press chicken wire or chainlink mesh into it, continue pour...probably don't need it, but they will keep the slab(s) as slab(s)
 
Why go to all the work of pouring or mixing concrete when you can get precast pads already made? If the site isn't level then dig enough to level it out, set the pads down, and you're done (with a finish that looks better than most amature DIY jobs).

It's much less expensive than buying dozens of bags of concrete and you don't need to purchase all the tools you'll need for finishing the concrete.
 
I didnt really realize that there were pads like that available. A quick look at HD seems to show only cinderblock or other large-particle blocks but they are at maximum maybe 3x8x10".

Do they sell larger ones with real thickness to them at regular home stores? Must weigh a ton.
 
tom slick's advice on finding someone to do it as a side job would be ideal. You never know, if someone can get you a great deal if your time is flexible, it could be way better than trial and error on your own.

Of course if you can buy pre-made pads, that would be even better.
 
It doesnt look like pre-made is available as big enough.

I like the idea of DIY to learn some concrete work, as the finished product isnt a sidewalk or some highly visible spot.

But you are right... I can watch and learn (and maybe help) someone doing it as a side job, and have the best of all worlds.
 
You can get 2'x 18" x 2"concrete patio slabs(2'x2' too I think), just call a landscape supplier place. Dig and remove the soil maybe 6" down, tamp the heck out of the soil, and fill and level with some sort of sand/gravel and put the slabs down. A good morning project.
They are reinforced and I have my 500 gallon propane tank sitting on two with no cracks and much less prep underneath.
 
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
This would be an excellent learning experience. Two 4' x 2.5' is diy possible, since you want control joints to take care of possible cracks. Lots of diy advice available.

Things I learned:

Prepare the base. Remove all sod and organic soil. Put in sand base for drainage and because it tamps down (unlike clay soil).

Oil the boards for easier removal.

Have the correct tools to form edges and joints.

Don't mix the "Sakrete" too wet. A VERY common mistake. You want it(what seems) on the dry side.

Rebar is not necessary. There is fence like material and holders that suspend it in the middle of the 4 inch thickness.

Don't overwork the final finish, or you will get a weak surface.

Keep it moist and/or apply a suitable sealer so it doesn't dry too fast = weak concrete.

Getting "left over" for a small batch? Maybe, if you coordinate with a local project. BUT, if concrete stays too long in the mix truck, it looses it's "slump", or consistency and it turns out weak.

This is definitely a "sweat equity" type of project. Check out the cost of time and materials vs. buying a minimum load quantity.


You should change your BITOG name to "doitmyself"!
Oh... wait a minute!
Great advice!
 
Call some A/C supply and repair shops. Ask them where you can buy a pre-cast pad(s) for an outdoor unit. Contractors use these all the time.

Probably not too hot in NJ (compared to Tx), but curing concrete gives off heat and you might have to mist it a few days to prevent it from drying out too fast, which will affect its strength.

If you want to DIY for the learning experience, more power to you! I tackle stuff all the time to learn more.
 
3 parts 1" stone, 2 parts sand, 1 part Portland cement If you have a decent hole , mix it a little at a time in the hole. Dont use too much water. I would divide the slab into 2 sections.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
You should change your BITOG name to "doitmyself"!Oh... wait a minute! Great advice!


Much nicer than the time Mori suggested "Do it to myself"!

Jack of some trades, master of none. I get flustered when I see how true professionals(the good ones) get stuff done. A contractor once noted my attic insulation and stated, you must have done it because it looks TOO good.

I have taken on some complicated jobs that I learned by reading, asking, and observing. But, I don't do enough of many things to become any type of expert. As told once, "knowing how to drive a dozer does not make you a heavy equipment operator".

I also learned the important idea of when it's better to hire someone else.

Learning curves can sometimes be very painful too, both in time and money....like the time I repainted someones truck hood 3 times.

Finally, my family routinely reminds me that I am absolutely the slowest -insert here- mechanic, plumber, electrician...in the world. They are right.
 
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
You should change your BITOG name to "doitmyself"!Oh... wait a minute! Great advice!


Much nicer than the time Mori suggested "Do it to myself"!

Jack of some trades, master of none. I get flustered when I see how true professionals(the good ones) get stuff done. A contractor once noted my attic insulation and stated, you must have done it because it looks TOO good.

I have taken on some complicated jobs that I learned by reading, asking, and observing. But, I don't do enough of many things to become any type of expert. As told once, "knowing how to drive a dozer does not make you a heavy equipment operator".

I also learned the important idea of when it's better to hire someone else.

Learning curves can sometimes be very painful too, both in time and money....like the time I repainted someones truck hood 3 times.

Finally, my family routinely reminds me that I am absolutely the slowest -insert here- mechanic, plumber, electrician...in the world. They are right.
yah , I have about the same skill set and speed. OTOH, my lack of speed is countered by getting results that I want when I want them. I'm not making my schedule conform to someone elses's
 
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