Concerned about switching to Mobil 1 0w40

[Pluto]

Just purchased a 2013 Land Cruiser - Demo (still under warrantee).

Quick background:
Under Warrantee
Mostly City with the occasional road trip
No extreme off-road
Currently live in relatively cool climates (Central CA Coast), but as active duty there is a high probability of returning to Death Valley for another tour in the desert
Will get used in the snow (frequently) during the winter months

I have really liked the performance of the Mobil 1 0w40 in our MINI over the last 2.5 years with Blackstone Samples at 1,200 / 5k / 10k intervals as shown on the Odo with plans to extend (while monitoring) OCI to 10k (every oil change will get sampled at a 10k OCI -- 5k OCI I wouldn't worry as much) All that said, I'd like to run the same oil in our 2013 Land Cruiser, but the Owners manual states that I should run Toyota Specific Oil 0w20 for 10k OCI. The Mobil 1 0w40 does not list their GF (or is it GL) - 5 rating.

1. I have a large desire to just keep one type of oil and buy in bulk when the stuff goes on sale (I think I have 3-4 cases on hand). That said, is the Mobil 1 0w40 a viable alternative? I plan to submit oil analysis with the same approach as the MINI (as read on the Odometer; 1,200 / 5k / 10k / etc...

2. If no (because of warrantee), would anyone recommend Mobil 1 0w40 post power train warrantee?

It seems like I just bite the bullet and purchase Toyota Oil until the warrantee runs out.

I'm "hitting submit"...and running for cover!

I truly invite all criticism and feedback. I know similar questions have been asked, but I wanted to share my specific case.

Thanks again! I love this website and have been referencing it for nearly 5 years. Sadly, it has taken this much time to egistered and become a new member.

v/r
Pluto

 

[mount]

I would prefer to run 0W-20 with or without warranty. Although I enjoy Mobil 1 0W-40, its way too thick for your Land Cruiser.

If you want to buy Mobil 1 0W-40 when its on sale, just pick up the Mobil 1 0W-20 which will be right next to it and will be on sale as well.

 

[Donald]

I looked at the Amsoil website for reference for a 2013 Toyota Land Cruiser and it calls for a 0W20 oil. They have several oils that would be fine. You do not need Toyota oil to stay under warranty. But you do need to use the proper oil as listed in the owners manual. So the answer is I would not suggest a 0W40 in this vehicle inside or outside of warranty if it calls for a 0W20.

 

[asiancivicmaniac]

Does the manual allow other weights to be used?

 

[Doug Hillary]

Hi,
Pluto - Welcome to BITOG

If I was in your shoes I would use Mobil 1 0W-40 without a second thought!

 

[Ayrton]

Under warranty, I would stick with what is recommended in the owners manual.

After all power train warranty expires, I would feel comfortable trying Mobil 1 0w40.

Truly, I think the main reason American and Japanese manufacturers recommend the 20 and 30 weight oils is to squeeze every last drop of fuel economy out of the vehicles. The oils protect well enough, so it's not a worry for them, and they want to get the best MPG ratings they can.

I'm not saying they are compromising the car, but I am saying, in theory, I don't think Mobil 1 0w40 would compromise a car either.

Still, under warranty, I'd want to stick with what the owners manual allows. The Toyota product is excellent, but if you want convenience, Mobil 1 in the approved viscosity should work ok too.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: Doug Hillary
If I was in your shoes I would use Mobil 1 0W-40 without a second thought!

Doug, I think I can safely say that we've seen it all now that a Land Cruiser specifies a 0w-20.

 

[zloveraz]

I'd play it safe and run 5W-20 and stay in the good graces of the warrantee.

Here is the latest tech bulletin for oil viscosity and change guidelines from 2010 to 2014 for Toyota:

http://rav4world.com/pdf/T-TT-0005-10.pdf

 

[Falcon_LS]

I know several people running Mobil 1 0W-40 in new generation Toyota Land Cruisers here, in both 1GR-FE and 3UR-FE engines. I second Doug, I would run it with confidence.

That said, the 2013 manuals specify anything from a 0w30 up to 20W-50 here.

 

[BISCUT]

Originally Posted By: mount
I would prefer to run 0W-20 with or without warranty. Although I enjoy Mobil 1 0W-40, its way too thick for your Land Cruiser.

If you want to buy Mobil 1 0W-40 when its on sale, just pick up the Mobil 1 0W-20 which will be right next to it and will be on sale as well.


What he stated.........

 

[Pablo]

What EXACTLY does your manual say?

 

[Phishin]

Why does everyone say "look at the manual"? That's the last place I'd look. As a matter of fact, it might be the worse place to look.

I'm running Mobil 1 0w40 mixed with some Mobil 1 0w20 in my 2010 Accord.

I'd for sure run Mobil 1 0w40 in that LandCruiser. No worries from me if it was mine. None whatsoever. You couldn't EVER get me to put a 20 weight oil in a V8. NEVER.

 

[Brent_G]

Why would the manual be the worst place to look? Toyota designed the engine, and has spent quite a bit of time testing. Do we know better than the engineers?


Originally Posted By: Phishin
Why does everyone say "look at the manual"? That's the last place I'd look. As a matter of fact, it might be the worse place to look.

I'm running Mobil 1 0w40 mixed with some Mobil 1 0w20 in my 2010 Accord.

I'd for sure run Mobil 1 0w40 in that LandCruiser. No worries from me if it was mine. None whatsoever. You couldn't EVER get me to put a 20 weight oil in a V8. NEVER.

 

[Phishin]

Originally Posted By: Brent_G
Why would the manual be the worst place to look? Toyota designed the engine, and has spent quite a bit of time testing. Do we know better than the engineers?



What's written in the manual is worth nothing because.....

An engineer or even a team of engineers didn't suggest that Toyota put a 20 weight in the engine. Government regulations pushed Toyota to do so. Without those government regulations, I wonder what Toyota would suggest for an oil weight? That's an easy question to answer: What does Toyota spec for oil in this truck or in this engine sold outside the USA? I would bet you $50,000 it's not 0w20 oil...without even looking.

Some Toyota bureaucrat might have asked the engineers if the engines will fail before the warranty is up if a 20 weight oil is used in these engines....But putting a 20 weight oil in this truck is not what the engine designers and builders would optimally choose. Our government pushes automakers to run this thin oil....not the engineers who designed the motors.

 

[FZ1]

0W-40 is twice the spec! Run the 0w-20.

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: Phishin
Originally Posted By: Brent_G
Why would the manual be the worst place to look? Toyota designed the engine, and has spent quite a bit of time testing. Do we know better than the engineers?



What's written in the manual is worth nothing because.....

An engineer or even a team of engineers didn't suggest that Toyota put a 20 weight in the engine. Government regulations pushed Toyota to do so. Without those government regulations, I wonder what Toyota would suggest for an oil weight? That's an easy question to answer: What does Toyota spec for oil in this truck or in this engine sold outside the USA? I would bet you $50,000 it's not 0w20 oil...without even looking.

Some Toyota bureaucrat might have asked the engineers if the engines will fail before the warranty is up if a 20 weight oil is used in these engines....But putting a 20 weight oil in this truck is not what the engine designers and builders would optimally choose. Our government pushes automakers to run this thin oil....not the engineers who designed the motors.


Everything you just said is spectulation and not based on fact.

 

[demarpaint]

Thick vs. thin the engineers know best, etc. Same old, same old. Doug Hillary knows a thing or two about oil, no doubt in my mind.

As far as the engineers go, I wonder what the Ford engineers where thinking when they used three threads to hold spark plugs into the cylinder heads of some of their V8 engines. Lots of them where launching spark plugs like missiles. For the record I'm a Ford guy! Someone thought three threads would work. We should have an engineers blunder thread, I bet there are a lot more engineering blunders. My point here isn't about oil, its about the blanket statement that engineers know best.

OP 0W20 won't hurt your engine, 0W40 won't hurt it either. Its the warranty you have to worry about if something oil related goes wrong.

 

[Brent_G]

Originally Posted By: Phishin
Originally Posted By: Brent_G
Why would the manual be the worst place to look? Toyota designed the engine, and has spent quite a bit of time testing. Do we know better than the engineers?



What's written in the manual is worth nothing because.....

An engineer or even a team of engineers didn't suggest that Toyota put a 20 weight in the engine. Government regulations pushed Toyota to do so. Without those government regulations, I wonder what Toyota would suggest for an oil weight? That's an easy question to answer: What does Toyota spec for oil in this truck or in this engine sold outside the USA? I would bet you $50,000 it's not 0w20 oil...without even looking.

Some Toyota bureaucrat might have asked the engineers if the engines will fail before the warranty is up if a 20 weight oil is used in these engines....But putting a 20 weight oil in this truck is not what the engine designers and builders would optimally choose. Our government pushes automakers to run this thin oil....not the engineers who designed the motors.


No doubt EPA/MPG plays a big part in the lighter oils now days.

You can bet however Toyota has invested millions into R&D on light oils. We don't know the reason why they spec different weights out of the US. Maybe its because 0w20 isn't easily available, the fact of the high speed autobahns, or maybe its because the sky is a different shade of blue.

We can speculate and play armchair tribologists, but Toyota requires 20 weight for warranty. The engine has been designed for 0w20 and will last longer than the OP will care to own the car.

 

[3xSHO]

Another case in point to illustrate the differences between North American and European oil requirements:

2012 Buick Regal GS
• dexos 1
• SAE 5W30 is the best viscosity grade for the vehicle. Do not use other viscosity grade oils such as SAE 10W30, 10W40, or 20W50.
• If in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below -20°F (-29°C), an SAE 0W30 oil should be used.

2012 Opel / Vauxhall Insignia
• dexos 1
• down to -25 °C SAE 5w30 or SAE 5W-40
• below -25 °C SAE 0w30 or SAE 0W-40

 

[JOD]

Sure, you can use 0W40, or any API-rated oil in your car and it will "work" just fine. So, if you're out of warranty (or don't care about the warranty), use it up. But, is it really that big a deal to keep two different oils on-hand? Mobil 1 0W40 will probably work better in your Toyota than 0W20 will work in your Mini, but if I were in your shoes, I'd use the correct oil in each.

As far as all of the nonsense about "what they use in blah blah", "goverment/EPA/stealing our freedoms" blah, blah", keep in mind it's exactly that: nonsense. Lots of things drive oil specs in other countries, including availability and consumer perception. The reality is that with your driving habits, the lightest oil specified will be the most suitable oil. And, regardless of what you read on here, the engineers who designed the engine designed it with that grade in mind: large sump, additional block cooling and generally low oil temperatures. So, if you want the best fit for your rig I'd stick with Toyota's 0W20. There are some dealers near the Central Coast where I've seen it on sale occasionally.