Compressor siezed after timing belt water pump job

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I don't think it is related but I am just wondering. This is on a 1999 Camry 2.2L 4-cyl engine. When the A/C is turned on, compressor tries move a little but ECM immediately shuts it down. There is a sensor on the compressor which tells the ECM if the compressor is spinning or not.

Is there any chance that only the clutch is burned out and the compressor itself is fine?

To the best of my knowledge, the compressor does not need to come out for the timing belt job on this car. Only the serpentine belt. Belt is tight; may be too tight? But could tight belt cause this problem?

I think it is just a bad coincidence that after the timing belt job.
 
Low charge tripping the low-side minimum pressure shutdown? Bad clutch? Can you grip the center of the clutch and spin the compressor by hand?

There's no sensor that shuts the compressor down if the compressor won't turn (itll just fry the clutch and/or belt, or stall the engine. But if the charge is very low, the pressure drop on the suction side when the compressor starts turning will immediately shut it down.
 
A lot of Toyotas do have a compressor rpm sensor. If that is the case, and the compressor turns freely, maybe sensor is unplugged or the wires damaged?
 
the compressor tried to spin when the button was pressed but it could not; there was nasty smell and orange spark too indicating metal on metal contact at the clutch.

there is no room to put the hand on the center of the clutch to grab it. the compressor would have to be unbolted first to find if it is spinning freely or not. but then we still won't know if it is still "compressing" but at least then could consider replacing only the clutch first or r/r the clutch.

unfortunately, I do not have the skills or the courage to diagnosis this properly. the shop will likely take the least painful and most expensive way to fix this aka replacement of the compressor and all the related parts.

the RPM sensor logic makes this more difficult to diagnosis but it definitely saves the belt from getting shredded along with stopping your alternator from charging. But there should be a way to bypass that for diagnostic purposes but I see nothing in the service manual.
 
It should not throw sparks and smoke. That really suggests the compressor is seized internally.

Engine off, you could remove the belt, jump the clutch wire to the battery to pull clutch in, then try to turn the whole pulley (and compressor) by hand. Jumping the clutch with the engine running is not recommended.
 
smoke and spark most likely imply seized compressor; burned out clutch most likely will not give those symptoms.
 
Sounds like low refrigerant to me. At least that's the first thing I'd check. It's easy enough to do. Either that or it's too cold and it's too low in refrigerant.
 
I'd put gauges on it and if pressures are OK, prepare for the worst. If the conpressor has failed, there's a chance of metal and dirt being in the system, requiring a lot of flushing and cleaning.
 
Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
Sounds like low refrigerant to me. At least that's the first thing I'd check. It's easy enough to do. Either that or it's too cold and it's too low in refrigerant.

Not likely... In 49 years of vehicle ownership I'm yet to see low refrigerant cause smoke and/or sparks...

Yes my first car bought Nov '66 had A/C, had to learn about these systems from almost day one(well spring '67 when I found it was low on charge)...
 
It is seized compressor. Mechanic suggested that I get a used or re-man compressor and he will replace it. He does not believe there is any need to replace other parts at least not until he evacuates and takes off the seized compressor.

I thought receiver dryer and expansion valves (and possibly condenser) HAVE TO be replaced if the compressor gets replaced.

Used compressor means it will be completely untested aka coming from wrecked car. Who knows its condition before or its handling afterwards. Nobody tests a compressor. So it would be foolish to hand it to my mechanic.

I am thinking getting a Denso re-man would be best solution. Those are priced reasonable. I can also add Denso receiver dryer just to be safe and have the mechanic swap them all.

May be not the cheapest solution but certainly a lot better than thousand dollar repair if everything has to be replaced with OEM parts.

My mechanic is cool with me buying parts. I always ask him first though and this time he told me to purchase the compressor myself. So I don't feel too guilty.
 
I cannot imagine why you would not replace at least the receiver/dryer.

You can flush the condenser and other lines to clear any debris...
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
does seized compressor automatically imply contaminated system?


On most modern systems, yes. Back when the receiver/drier came after the compressor and before the expansion valve, it would usually catch debris and you could try simply flushing the condensor, replacing the compressor and drier, and go. But now that most systems run an 'accumulator' on the low side (the way GM always did), compressor debris heads straight to the expansion valve and ruins it. Best to assume the worst.

The last time I actually had a compressor fail was on my wife's 1993 LH car back in the 90s. When I pulled the compressor I took it apart and found that a single spot on one cylinder bore had galled and seized, and that it had happened so fast that there were no metal grit chunks anywhere downstream. I got away with not replacing or flushing parts on that one, but I'd say its the exception, not the rule.
 
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