Cold / Kreen / PYB

[RnR]

I'm getting close to my OCI; planning on replacing Synthetic 10W30/32oz. MMO with my first trial of Kreen.

The original plan was to use the Kreen with Pennzoil Conventional 10w30 which I have in hand... but might I need to modify this mix considering the lower temperatures we've had as of late? Here in Michigan anyway...

 

[Hemi426]

I'm no expert but if I lived in Michigan, Minnesota, or Wisconsin I wouldn't use a conventional 10w30 in winter. MAYBE a conventional 5w30 but a synthetic 5w30 or 0w30 would be perfect for you. I wouldn't add anything to the oil that the manufacturer didn't already put in there. What exactly is Kreen, by the way?

 

[hate2work]

Originally Posted By: Hemi426
I'm no expert but if I lived in Michigan, Minnesota, or Wisconsin I wouldn't use a conventional 10w30 in winter. MAYBE a conventional 5w30 but a synthetic 5w30 or 0w30 would be perfect for you. I wouldn't add anything to the oil that the manufacturer didn't already put in there. What exactly is Kreen, by the way?


I agree, I'd be using a 5W or 0W weight oil in that part of the country, probably just run it year around. I think Kreen is an engine cleaner similar to MMO.

 

[chubbs1]

Is your engine dirty? Why the Kreen? Great product but a little strong for my taste. Were you going to use the Kreen to "cut" the oil to make it thinner. Another thing...don't mix the Kreen and MMO, first off it is overkill. Secondly I wouldn't want any reaction between solvents, only God knows what is in Kreen and it is powerful. I would use a "syn" 5w or 0w for the looks of this winter. Just go with Mobil 1 or Pennz. Platinum. Mobil 1 0w30AFE is reasonably priced at walmart. We can get too concerned about cleaning our engines, we may clean 'em to death. DON'T MIX.

 

[RnR]

Don't worry about the mixing issue... that's not part of the game plan. I have over the last few years been working through a very gradual ramp up in cleaning capability however, first with ARx, then MMO and the final step will be with the Kreen.

I thought using MMO before Kreen was the smarter choice than jumping into the Kreen directly.

I have run synthetic 10W30 in prior winters without issue and now at over 210k want to step the cleaning into high gear. I don't drive nearly as much as I once did so even with the MMO, it is taking a pretty long time to get through the process. Call it impatience if you will, but I am finally heartened to see some indication of progress through use of the MMO. Kreen I expect, will get me to the endpoint just as safely as MMO would... provided the carrier oil is appropriate, with consideration being given to the current WX conditions. Thus the question.

I can always wait on the Kreen 'til spring to use with the Pennzoil conventional, and stick with the PP/MMO for the cold interval.

Just gettin' itchy, ya know?

And yes, I don't mind the current composite 10W30/MMO viscosity one bit either!

 

[ahoier]

Originally Posted By: RnR
Don't worry about the mixing issue... that's not part of the game plan. I have over the last few years been working through a very gradual ramp up in cleaning capability however, first with ARx, then MMO and the final step will be with the Kreen.
Good idea....as noted previously, I would never recommend any 2 chemicals together in the crankcase marketed for "cleaning"......

Quote:
I thought using MMO before Kreen was the smarter choice than jumping into the Kreen directly.
sounds like a good idea, considering from what I've heard, Kreen is some pretty stout stuff......but no experience with it really....

Quote:
I have run synthetic 10W30 in prior winters without issue and now at over 210k want to step the cleaning into high gear. I don't drive nearly as much as I once did so even with the MMO, it is taking a pretty long time to get through the process. Call it impatience if you will, but I am finally heartened to see some indication of progress through use of the MMO.
Was this vehicle neglected that bad in it's 210k miles...? That you think this MMO, Kreen, and ARX regimen is needed? Is there an eventual "goal" to this "project" at all? I.e.: do you plan on taking the valve cover off and see how the innerds look in the end? If so, sounds like a neat idea, go ahead with it!

Personally though, this winter seems like it's going to be very harsh/cold....I might suggest trying another run with MMO, and a 5W oil, rather than the thicker 10W oil, just so you don't get stuck out in the cold one morning....unable to start the vehicle up. I know particularly, the MMO packaging touts it is good for "winter weather cold starts" and such....likely due to it's cleaning abilities, paired with the lighter(thinner?) weight oil....?

Quote:
Kreen I expect, will get me to the endpoint just as safely as MMO would... provided the carrier oil is appropriate, with consideration being given to the current WX conditions. Thus the question.

I can always wait on the Kreen 'til spring to use with the Pennzoil conventional, and stick with the PP/MMO for the cold interval.
Good thought, and as I mentioned, I'd recommend waiting to use the Kreen during the spring, when the weather is "right" and the engine can actually stay running at proper operating temperatures and do proper cleaning of what needs to be cleaned up....not to mention, the winter benefits of MMO in the crankcase that are mentioned on the bottle.

Quote:
Just gettin' itchy, ya know?

And yes, I don't mind the current composite 10W30/MMO viscosity one bit either!
And oh yea, I believe ya

I went out and bought some Mobil 5000 for my "next oci" but then a friend of mine told me how it can "skew" some of the Blackstone Labs results due to high sodium in the oil, or something...? I guess it can "mask" a coolant leak, etc. (don't know if I have one or not... but figured, eh, it's a "new" old car, with only 30k on the clock.....never know...lol) ....so yea, I've had this case of Mobil 5000 in my closet now for 6 months now, "waiting" for that next OCI, where I can get a good sample of oil for Blackstone of the current "Pennzoil conventional" 10w30 in the crankcase...heh.

 

[demarpaint]

If you feel the need for a good cleaning then go for it. I'd get a 5W30 oil for the Kreen treatment. OTOH you have MMO in the sump, it is perfect for a slower winter cleaning, and helps with cold starts, then hit it with the knock out punch in the spring. Oh these tough decisions, thank goodness for Bitog!

 

[trynew]

I live in a colder climate than you, but definitely go with 5w30 and use synthetic if you can afford it.
Those who question an older car with lots of miles needing a good cleaning probably don't realize what a beating engines and oils take in a cold winter. If you make a trip of less than 15 minutes, you don't burn off the water in the engine and the oil is so thick and clearances so wide when the engine is started cold that gas, water and exhaust fumes get past the rings into the oil. This eventually solidifies. Besides that, Michigan is pretty humid in the summer, so very short trips accumulate engine moisture even then. One person I knew who drove his car 5 minutes to work and back every day was constantly going through mufflers, but the same deterioration happens to an engine under those conditions.
If you keep your car in a garage or have a plugin engine heater in the winter, you will relieve some of the stress on your engine and keep it cleaner, as well as using less gas because of the quicker warmup.
I have tried many oil and gas additives. MMO made a big difference on one vehicle as a gas additive, but I never really felt any noticeable difference with the oil additives that I tried. But with Kreen in both the gas and oil, I have seen noticeable improvements in smoothness, power, and quietness on some older vehicles.
For some, the solution is to always buy new vehicles, keep them less than 5 years, and post messages trying to straighten out folks who do not follow the manufacturer's recommendations (by using additives). I wish I had that luxury. Keeping older vehicles running, especially in winter, is a chore I would gladly do without. But sometimes additives do help. Having an older vehicle noticeably improve is a thrill that new-car drivers will never experience, but I would trade it for the thrill of owning a brand new car.

 

[jonny-b]

I have the same idea about owning new, versus old cars. Having a brand new car, is boring, since everything is working as it should. Buying an old car with smaller engine problems, and try to fix those problems with additives, is quite fun. If you find the right additives.
Besides, you will very soon find out which additives are working as advertised.

 

[RnR]

Yepper.. Bitog to the rescue!

I think I'll simply repeat the current mix, but with some 5W30 (Syntec was on sale @ WM) in play. So that means I will continue with a 2nd MMO treatment phase which includes a pint at oil change time, and then adding another pint just prior to the spring OCI. At that time, I'll change to Pennzoil conventional, the Kreen and let the final fireworks begin.

Thanks for the ideas, gents. All are appreciated.

 

[electrolover]

Originally Posted By: RnR
Don't worry about the mixing issue... that's not part of the game plan. I have over the last few years been working through a very gradual ramp up in cleaning capability however, first with ARx, then MMO and the final step will be with the Kreen.

I thought using MMO before Kreen was the smarter choice than jumping into the Kreen directly.

I have run synthetic 10W30 in prior winters without issue and now at over 210k want to step the cleaning into high gear. I don't drive nearly as much as I once did so even with the MMO, it is taking a pretty long time to get through the process. Call it impatience if you will, but I am finally heartened to see some indication of progress through use of the MMO. Kreen I expect, will get me to the endpoint just as safely as MMO would... provided the carrier oil is appropriate, with consideration being given to the current WX conditions. Thus the question.

I can always wait on the Kreen 'til spring to use with the Pennzoil conventional, and stick with the PP/MMO for the cold interval.

Just gettin' itchy, ya know?

And yes, I don't mind the current composite 10W30/MMO viscosity one bit either!


whats the condition of your engine? is it sludged up, or have alot of varnish?
if its in good shape and not very dirty(i hope because if its still dirty arx and mmo suck) i would just run maxlife syn or blend and forget it

 

[RnR]

Varnish seems to be the biggest heartache presently, and just happened to switch to the MaxLife today. I still added a pint of the red sauce and am now good until spring when the deck hands will likely demand more chemical excitement.

 

[electrolover]

so you have ran arx and mmo and still have varnish???
man i thought these products worked!!!!!!
i just put mmo in mine to get rid of varnish but i guess im wasting my time.
i was hoping one oci with mmo would clean mine up. i might just switch to PP and forget it

 

[Spyder7]

Originally Posted By: electrolover
so you have ran arx and mmo and still have varnish???
man i thought these products worked!!!!!!
i just put mmo in mine to get rid of varnish but i guess im wasting my time.
i was hoping one oci with mmo would clean mine up. i might just switch to PP and forget it


I used PP & MMO (20 ounces of MMO in divided doses) to clean my engine on a 3k OCI. Then I used the new Pennzoil conventional for 2k. I am satisfied and am back to normal, but sensible OCIs.

Current OCI will be 5k on Syntec as 5k is what the OEM spec'd, and even with syn, I prefer to stay closer to 5k at the tail end of a cleaning cycle in the winter. I have nothing else in the sump but some LM mos2 as extra, inexpensive, AW additive to what's already in the oil.

I use MMO in the fuel mainly to maintain fuel system, injector, and combustion chamber cleanliness, and to somewhat offset ethanol content of winter fuel.

MMO has more than one use. No experience with ARX. PP is good but, in my experience in using both, not better enough than the new Pennzoil conventional to justify the price difference if you aren't doing extended OCIs.

-Spyder

 

[Spyder7]

Note to the above: the use of PP was when it was bought on sale and before there was any info on API SN Pennzoil conventional published here, and before it was on the market.

-Spyder

 

[electrolover]

well if i dont get any results next time ill try seafoam.
thing is i just drained a qt out with 100 miles on it since i added mmo and its pretty dark for my truck. i used a clear bowl and when i emptied it i left the stuff in the bottom to look at and there were some black specs. i guess its doing something because at 3k my oil is about that dark.

smelled nice too!!