coil pack cracked, no real terrible symptoms....

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The coil pack on my explorer (used pretty much from 90-11 on every v6) has serious cracks and rust jacking at the base.

Truck runs well, maybe it could be a bit better in some instances, but hard to justify the 42 $ to replace it for a motorcraft part(online price).
Has recent plugs and wires.

Seems that the taurus coil packs cause problems even with a tiny hairline crack, but these sort of don't from internet searches.

I could run a mode $06 to see if there are some misfires, but no codes were ever set.

Is it it a good idea to replace a coil just because the plastic is cracked but otherwise asymptomatic?

My truck was state inspected at the dealer, and the tech that did it said if it was his he would change it immediately. Dealer quote was 165 on the work order. His reasoning was that on very damp day it will short out and you will be driving around dumping gas in the converter from two cylinders. He said it can take the wire and plug out too.
 
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I'd replace it you dont want it to finish dying and leave you somewhere. 42$ and its doable yourself I tackle that kind of repair all day.

Its not like its marginal if its cracked and rusty its done.

That is the dge446?
 
Cracked E-Coils are usually from heat cycles. It's dying. Hasn't yet, but it will. Replace with a wrecking yard take off ($5) if price is a concern...

Also, while you are in there, run a new #8 ground wire from the coil mount base bolt to the fire wall. One with soldered and crimped lugs that fits whatever bolts you choose (I like the driver side hood hinge bolt). It will make it run way better as the ignition will now have the same reference "zero" as the ECM w/o all the old corroded wiring tie-ups
smile.gif


I've had good luck with Proform brand coils. They are the best of the "made in China" new coils and seem to hold up well. $29 from Summit, or there abouts...

Proform 66959C
 
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This is an easy fix, and you're kidding yourself if you think the $42 is not worth it. The new one would likely last you another 15-20 years, assuming you still have the vehicle then.

If $42 is too much for you, RockAuto has the same coil pack for $37 & change .

Think about what kind of costs you'll accrue if the thing fails you somewhere unpleasant. Fix it, and be done with it.

Also, consider yourself lucky. In my 2010 Fusion, which uses coil-on-plug design instead of a single coil pack, EACH coil costs $34 at RockAuto if I want the Motorcraft one. Even an Airtex/Wells unit costs $28. If I needed to replace all 4, that's over $100. $42 is nothing.
 
Thanks gentlemen for the tips!

yes, it is a DGE446. Probably 5 minutes of labor, real gravy job for the dealership, no wonder why they were so eager. Of course their part at retail is probably 80, and 30 min of labor, tax....

Closest pick and pull wants 22$ for a coil, I looked on their site, forget that. It would probably cost close to that in gas to drive there.

Ebay used coils are in the 20s. In this case Motorcraft may be a good deal.


The coil sits on a very hefty steel bracket, which was removed after 97. Good idea to ground it. I will just drill a hole in it and put a lug.
 
Originally Posted By: SirTanon
This is an easy fix, and you're kidding yourself if you think the $42 is not worth it. The new one would likely last you another 15-20 years, assuming you still have the vehicle then.

If $42 is too much for you, RockAuto has the same coil pack for $37 & change .

Think about what kind of costs you'll accrue if the thing fails you somewhere unpleasant. Fix it, and be done with it.

Also, consider yourself lucky. In my 2010 Fusion, which uses coil-on-plug design instead of a single coil pack, EACH coil costs $34 at RockAuto if I want the Motorcraft one. Even an Airtex/Wells unit costs $28. If I needed to replace all 4, that's over $100. $42 is nothing.


Shipped it is around $42ish, I need some other stuff anyway(making a list) so it will go along for the ride. I just don't like replacing things without a cause, but this may be justified seeing it now, without the sticker. COPS are expensive, similar for the grand marquis.

The sticker was hiding most of the damage, I guess the tech pulled it away, looked again when I got home. I looked with a mirror and it is cracked in the rear too.

EVCcKBT.jpg
 
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Wow. Yeah, that thing's had it. Good thing you caught it now.

While you're looking at the ignition system - how old are the plugs that are currently in the engine?
 
Originally Posted By: Rand
I'd replace it you dont want it to finish dying and leave you somewhere. 42$ and its doable yourself I tackle that kind of repair all day.

Its not like its marginal if its cracked and rusty its done.

This
 
Grab another motorcraft part at your retailer of choice, replace, and move on knowing you prevented an issue from happening at a bad time later... Easy job, low price, no brainer!
 
platinum plugs and wires maybe have 10K on them, I replace every 10 years or 70Kish. All OEM motorcraft.

Neighbor is a retired tech and mentioned JB weld when I talked to him but when he looked at it he said 100% replace it ASAP. He said it is amazing it is still working. He took off some wires and watched the spark on some of the coils (yes there is a visible spark) but he said some are weaker and lower voltage. He suggested to have a look at the plugs after its installed, no emergency.

He said you may have to drive 50 miles one rainy night with no or weak spark in some cyls and turn your converter into a loaf of bread. Said he saw it many times. It will be much more than 40 bucks...
 
For $42.00, it shouldn't even be a question. It's done. And yes, even though it's not a Taurus, it will cause it to run poorly- guaranteed. I've replaced several myself because the were running poorly.
 
I would replace that col pack with another Motorcraft one. I just checked prices at my local U-pull-it junkyard and they are also too expensive for what you get ($25).
 
Aren't those coils potted in epoxy? the coil is not subject to weathering even from case cracking. I have an 4-terminal ESCORT coil pack on the shelf from 1995 that is NOS. Don't know the part number. I can send it to you for cost of postage if its the same part.
 
Originally Posted By: SirTanon
This is an easy fix, and you're kidding yourself if you think the $42 is not worth it. Think about what kind of costs you'll accrue if the thing fails you somewhere unpleasant. Fix it, and be done with it.
This^ Totally.
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Aren't those coils potted in epoxy? the coil is not subject to weathering even from case cracking. I have an 4-terminal ESCORT coil pack on the shelf from 1995 that is NOS. Don't know the part number. I can send it to you for cost of postage if its the same part.


Won't work, these coils are for the Cologne V6 engines. But thanks for the offer.

I ordered from RA, along with some other stuff. That warehouse is usually 1 day w/fedex, so either tomorrow or Saturday or Monday. I keep a list on my phone (things like filters) so I can bundle when I order stuff.
 
Rockauto is awesome, already in Fedex and going to be here tomorrow.

I hooked up a scanner with mode $06 and took it for a drive.

There are some occasional misfires in two cylinders....happens mostly when you hit the gas hard around 40 mph. Nothing bad enough to set a code. Feels like it could use a bit more power, but nothing you would really notice.
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Aren't those coils potted in epoxy? the coil is not subject to weathering even from case cracking. I have an 4-terminal ESCORT coil pack on the shelf from 1995 that is NOS. Don't know the part number. I can send it to you for cost of postage if its the same part.


My 2002 Ranger had a crack in the potting, and its case didn't look nearly as bad as OP's...
IMG_2738_zps2d071cd0.jpg


I discovered the cracks on the coil while trying to track down severe detonation and misfires. It would not set a hard code, but ran bad over 4K RPM and would flash the CEL. Replacing the coil alone did not fix the problem, but was probably needed. Replacing the pre-cats fixed it. Not sure if the cracks in the coil lead to the clogging and failure of the pre-cats, or if that was caused by towing a trailer almost daily with a 3.0 for about a year.
 
It really blows my mind that you considered deferring this issue. If that was my vehicle, I'd be at dealer parts house immediately, even if it cost a bit more.

I guess there are people who don't mind driving on bald tires and metal on metal brakes, though.


This is coming from a guy who operates equipment that if not properly maintained can cause loss of life.
 
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