Clutch grab after oil changes

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Folks, I'm giving all the info I have on this issue. I'm an old member of vn750.com and I have a pretty new member that has recently bought an 06 vulcan 750 with less than 500 miles on it. He bought it from a dealership through consignment so as far as the PO records on oil type etc. he has none. First thing he did was change the oil to Rotella T Dyno, just in case, and he immediately started having the clutch grab on take off, even when the bike was fully warmed up. This bike has a tendency to clutch grab when it is cold, (all VN750's have this problem) but usually it goes away once the bike is warmed up. He's barely got 1000 miles on the bike but he's been bothered with the clutch grabbing so he decided to change the oil again, this time to Castrol RS V-Twin 4T. He said the clutch is still grabbing just as bad, although shifting and running very smooth, aside from the grab. I talked to him by phone this morning and told him one, I've never seen this with a warmed up 750, (had mine 3 years) and as much of a pain as it is, I would try to put up with it for a while and see if it solves its self in time. He asked me about using seafoam in the oil just prior to oil change, and I told him I've done that for years and it never caused me any problems. He's thinking about changing his oil yet again and going with the Rotella Synthetic this time, primarily because I've used it for years and never had a problem, other than the cold clutch grab issue that is normal on this model bike.

You folks have way more knowledge than I on the subject of oil, so I want to ask a few, probably ignorant questions... Could there be some incompatibility with the additives from one oil to another, or maybe the base stocks don't like each other? The 750 is a wet clutch sharing the engine oil and I know when you replace the clutch plates you are supposed to soak them in your current motor oil overnight for what ever reason before installing them. Could the old oil that has "soaked" up into the clutch plates be causing this grab with the new oil in there? Like I said, we don't know what oil was in the bike when he bought it, possibly even the break in oil, or it could have been anything, even energy conserving. do you all feel like he should just try to ride it a while and see if it calms down, or is there something else he should try? Thanks for any and all help!
 
If it has 500 miles on it then I would say that it has set for a long time. The clutch plates are sticking - and should work themselves free after a while. It needs to get good and hot, then cool down a few times. A trip to the corner store won't get it.

It's not the oil.

Check the adjustment to make sure that there is free-play in the clutch lever. Assuming that there is - then just keep riding it.

A thinner oil may help here but make sure NOT to get an energy conserving oil. He may want to try some Rotella 10W-30 and dump it after a while. Heck - at this time of the year he could just run it.
 
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That's kind of what I was thinking. I did send him a PM while I was waiting on a reply here and asked if he had checked the clutch for adjustment and he assured me it was the first thing he checked, and it is in spec with just a tiny bit of play in the lever. I'll let him know what you said. Thanks!
 
In my mind - it doesn't hurt to do a couple short oil changes on a bike that has sat for so long.

I buy bikes in winter - looking for a project. Something I can fix up and ride for a while and then get my money back. Sticking clutch plates are not uncommon. I normally just ride them until they decide to let loose.
 
I recall reading an article about clutch problems in a bike that sat too much. The above suggestions about working itself out were pretty much what the Expert said, except at the very last the Expert suggested it may require changing the clutch discs (organic). He thought some light sanding might fix it but if you're that far in you might was well change the discs.

Drive it like he stole it a couple of times and see what happens, repeat until tired of it or it gets better. With that new of a bike I'd think it would it would get better fairly quick.
 
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I'm not real familiar with that bike but, most bikes have a adjustment that can be performed at the clutch pack itself, no t just the cable.That moves the plates further apartwhen the lever is pulled in. with a new oil change and no difference in performance for the better, I feel you may need to dig deeper.
 
I would do nothing until the bike has been taken on a 50-100 mile ride. I also agree the plates are sticking form sitting so long. If he wants to try a thinner oil try Rotella 5w40.
 
He actually did go on a 120 mile ride before I opened this thread, but I still feel like he needs to ride some more. He did just change the oil to the 5W40 Rotella Synthetic and it's been raining since... I'll let ya all know how it goes.
 
A long ride with little use of the clutch isn't doing too much to work the plates in. I'd suggest a half hour of drag strip launches. The duration can be reduced if the grab goes away. Or, as previously stated "ride it like he stole it" with lots of clutch use.
 
Update: He's been riding as much as he can and he says the clutch seems to be getting better, especially with the bike warmed up. Still pretty sticky when cold, but as I said, that's normal with this bike. Seems to be working just from riding it more.
 
I have a '02 Kaw Vulcan 750 and the clutch always chatters when I first ride in colder weather. After the bike warms up it goes away. If I work the clutch several times before shifting in gear, oil many times will get in between the plates and lessen or eliminate the chatter.
 
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I had a '96 VN750, great bike except for the R/R being above the goats belly. I could usually feather the clutch when cold so it wouldn't make that horrible coffee grinder noise. As for oils - the clutch and shifter felt great on any oil, of course I changed the oil every 1,500 miles.
 
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