Cleaning through the PCV valve

[JHZR2]

Hi,

I posted a message on this a while back, but cannot seem to find it, even if I search under my user number for every post Ive ever made... I posted it in another area, but it got very few hits and no replies, so Im posting it here...
I think maybe it was lost when the worm came through the site.

Anyway, I have a 98 S-10 ZR2, with 4.3L HO v6. The idle is a little bit shaky, though other than that, it runs great, with lots of power.

What I would like to do is clean into the engine, by spraying aerosol cleaner in though the plastic PCV hose. I have a few questions:

1) Is this OK (last time I was assured that doing it would be fine, but I just want to see if anyone else has an opinion)

2) what should I use to spray in there? Amsoil power foam was reccomended, but I cant find it at the local amsoil shop, and I need to do the work this weekend when I have time. Is 3M TB claener spray OK?

3) if the PCV hose is hard plastic, do I run the risk of dissolving it by spraying cleaner through?

4) Is there any real benefit to spraying through the PCV vs. TB directly?

5) this is a bit unrelated, but I think the EGR may be getting a bit gummed up. Is there a 'spray in' solution to try and get the EGR valve cleaned? I run FP now so it shouldnt happen anymore.

Thanks for all your help!

JMH

 

[Bio-T]

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=24;t=001658;p=1#000000

 

[JHZR2]

thanks, thats the one I reposted above... There was another identical thread from a few weeks back (before the worm came through) that I cant find... It had all the answers I needed!

JMH

 

[fpracha]

I just saw this post and cannot open the link you have given(oildrop...).

Please send the current link or if you have the reply to this posted question (cleaning PCV valve & hoss) kindly post it here.

thanks!

 

[electrolover]

man i would seafoam it for cleaning. just follow the directions and pour it in th vacuum line. you will need to use one that will spread it evenly over the intake.

as for the egr i would pull it off, break it down and clean it. it also is a likely cause of the rough idle. i dont know if you have an idle air control, but they gum up too and need to be removed and cleaned every now and then

 

[SuperFast]

Originally Posted By: electrolover
man i would seafoam it for cleaning. just follow the directions and pour it in th vacuum line. you will need to use one that will spread it evenly over the intake.

as for the egr i would pull it off, break it down and clean it. it also is a likely cause of the rough idle. i dont know if you have an idle air control, but they gum up too and need to be removed and cleaned every now and then


They like to say the brake booster but since the PV valve is like 2 seconds to take on and off and check, ive not only sprayed Gumpout Carb andf Choke cleaner in the PCV, but also Seafoamed it three or four times. I am beginnign to think my engine is clean, since no "smoke show" frokm a TRULY dirty engine! the top looks black, but less "Gunky" too!

.. PCV valve is good for seafoaming
though they say "brake booster"
and it has a powerful suction, but no idea what it actually "feeds."

Im leaving my brake booster UNTOUCHED this time and going the PCV route, i can hear idle changes so its hitting something when the Seafoam goes in. Works well, too.

NOW im starting to see hwo a car "Cant die" from getting Seafoamed.. unless its done so wrong it locks something up or eats a gasket, i dont think it can happen.

 

[Steiner]

I was going to post up how to fix up the S10 until I realized the op hasn't been on the thread in six years.

Man, I love it when that happens and it's not me.....

 

[electrolover]

lmao i didnt even look at the date.

 

[ltslimjim]

Originally Posted By: electrolover
lmao i didnt even look at the date.


I was going to comment, but I regress.

IMO, if you are going to attempt to clean your top-end, give it a soak not a tease. That is to say, SeaFoam does something, but not much by just pouring it in and the car keeps running and the product is immediately expelled. Yeah, like that did a whole lot of good in the 2 seconds it was in the engine? Come on, use a foam cleaner or do the risky business of stalling the vehicle like people have being doing with SeaFoam for a while(some people have had car's "reportedly" go to the grave yard this way)...which is why I recommend the foam spray's not a liquid since it IS riskier to leave it in to soak with the engine off.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: Steiner
I was going to post up how to fix up the S10 until I realized the op hasn't been on the thread in six years.

Man, I love it when that happens and it's not me.....


Please do!!! I still have the truck and wouldn't mind doing it... The truck sits a lot and runs great but gets an idle shake now and again...

 

[Steiner]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: Steiner
I was going to post up how to fix up the S10 until I realized the op hasn't been on the thread in six years.

Man, I love it when that happens and it's not me.....


Please do!!! I still have the truck and wouldn't mind doing it... The truck sits a lot and runs great but gets an idle shake now and again...


IF it's in the idle circuit it's pretty easy to clean the entire throttle body. I think the '98 just has three bolts holding it on. You just have to remove the intake plenum, unplug the connectors, remove a cable bracket, and pull the bolts.

You can remove the IAC valve by removing the two Torx screws holding it in. It must go back in with the pintle tip height set to 28mm measured from the inside of the mounting flange. It's just a stepper with no feedback so if it goes in off it can strip the gears if it hits the hole in the throttle body.

Once you have the throttle body off you can use BrakeKleen and TB cleaner to get all the carbon and deposits out of the underside and the IAC opening where the pintle seats. You can pull the pintle out gently on the IAC valve and clean it. Don't soak it, just spray it off. Clean the intake and TB mounting surfaces well and a light film of oil on the o-ring should be enough to seal it back when you reinstall it. The IAC valve also needs a little oil on the o-ring and LocTite on the screws. Remember to lightly push it back in so the pintle is 28mm high.

Another thing to look at is the the two vents in the base of the distributor. They have screens over them which can get build up on them so the distributor can't vent. It'll wind up holding moisture inside it which can cause little skips when the engine is cold.