Cleaning Overflow Tank

[user52165]

I just cleaned a 32 year old overflow tank. Probably 10 years since I did it since this car does not get driven much now. Removal if possible is best.

Used 2 cups CLR with water and BB's. Shake well and watch the scum fall off. Rinse well, looks like new.

 

[The_Nuke]

I had hardened depostis in mine when I did the first coolant flush that seemed to be cement blobs painted brown. Those things just refused to be cleaned and held on to he inside of the tank shrugging off attach after attach I launched on it with everything from full strength degreaser to CLR to paint thinner. None of it did much, most of the hardened deposits remain to this day in fact.

But now that I know a secret weapon to use in eradicating them, I just might have to do another coolant flush...it would be about 50K miles too early for the coolant if I changed it now, but if it means finally defeating those immovable deposits inside the overflow tank, I would be willing to endure the extra cost to secure the victory over the brown cement!

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted by user52165
I just cleaned a 32 year old overflow tank. Probably 10 years since I did it since this car does not get driven much now. Removal if possible is best.

Used 2 cups CLR with water and BB's. Shake well and watch the scum fall off. Rinse well, looks like new.

The BB's are a great idea.

 

[Lubener]

Originally Posted by demarpaint
Originally Posted by user52165
I just cleaned a 32 year old overflow tank. Probably 10 years since I did it since this car does not get driven much now. Removal if possible is best.

Used 2 cups CLR with water and BB's. Shake well and watch the scum fall off. Rinse well, looks like new.

The BB's are a great idea.

If you have them, 1/4 inch nuts work better.

 

[Kira]

Yo, Nuke, What's your secret weapon?

 

[atikovi]

Originally Posted by user52165
Used 2 cups CLR with water and BB's. Shake well and watch the scum fall off. Rinse well, looks like new.


BB's too large. Stainless steel beads half the size work much better. Also use this technique on master cylinder reservoirs.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted by Lubener
If you have them, 1/4 inch nuts work better.

That was my first thought, once the BB idea got the wheels turning. I have both though so if one works better than the other it wouldn't be too hard to change over.

 

[Kestas]

If you have access to a chem lab as I do, dilute muriatic acid will dissolve the deposits. It's a nasty way to do it if you don't have a vent hood... even outside on the driveway.

 

[The_Nuke]

Originally Posted by Kira
Yo, Nuke, What's your secret weapon?


I haven't tried it yet, I was talking about the BB suggestion. Now that I know about that, I will have to try again.

 

[WyrTwister]

Originally Posted by demarpaint
Originally Posted by user52165
I just cleaned a 32 year old overflow tank. Probably 10 years since I did it since this car does not get driven much now. Removal if possible is best.

Used 2 cups CLR with water and BB's. Shake well and watch the scum fall off. Rinse well, looks like new.

The BB's are a great idea.

BB's as in air rifle BB's ? How about 1/4" x 20 hex nuts ? Seems like the sharp corners would be more aggressive . ? Or smaller hex nuts , if that is what you have on hand ?

Sorry , I read down further & some one has already suggested it .

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted by The_Nuke
But now that I know a secret weapon to use in eradicating them, I just might have to do another coolant flush...it would be about 50K miles too early for the coolant if I changed it now, but if it means finally defeating those immovable deposits inside the overflow tank, I would be willing to endure the extra cost to secure the victory over the brown cement!


Don't have to do a systen coolant flush to clean the overflow tank. Just remove the tank and clean it.