Chrysler RE transmission - valve body modification questions

[JHZR2]

Hopefully this is easy...

I’d like a pump in park valve body for the 47RE in my Ram. I had thought that meant a replacement $600 valve body. I was hesitant because of the fact that I’m not doing power increase mods, and the AT was replaced within 10k before I bought it.

I found that a $40-ish lube regulated pressure regulating valve, and a $20-ish manual valve from Sonnax would get me what I want. I want to do a filter Replacement on the rebuilt AT, so I’m interested in this option.

Apparently these two items are the same parts for all the torqflite transmissions dating back to ~1978... so I’m hoping someone has experience. I’d like to swap those parts. But I’ll be doing it on my back, in the wintertime. I’m really not interested in pulling the valve body, wrestling with connectors and the parking rod, etc.

Does anyone know if these two items can be replaced with the valve body in place, without removing it? Dropping it via release of a few of the bolts is one thing... hoping to not mess with the whole thing. I just am not a fan of messing with the innards of ATs.

Any experience?

Lube Regulated Pressure Regulator Valve - 22771A-02K

Enhance converter charge and prevent drain back problems. Improves converter feed/lube oil flow. Fits '78-Later 48RE units. Part # 22771A-10K.

www.sonnax.com

Manual Valve - 22771-09

Introduce converter/cooler charge in Park in various Chrysler transmissions with Sonnax manual valve #22771-09. Recommended to install alongside #22771A-02K.

www.sonnax.com

 

[ctechbob]

You'll be wanting @clinebarger to be answering that one.

Except to a special few, AT internals are voodoo witchcraft.

 

[JHZR2]

Working on an AT is my least favorite thing. I always end up covered in fluid, the pan gaskets are always stuck, etc...

So I’m not terribly keen on doing it, but I do want to get a new AT filter in there, so I want to kill two birds with one stone...

 

[ctechbob]

Hopefully this is easy...

HAHAHAHA, you know you just jinxed yourself into the next century with that, right?

 

[JHZR2]

HAHAHAHA, you know you just jinxed yourself into the next century with that, right?

I meant explaining my intent...

I know everything takes me twice as long as planned, and I need some silly thing that I don’t have on hand....

 

[clinebarger]

You have to drop the Valve Body, I recommend using BOTH the manual valve & the PR valve together. The toughest part is getting the Park Pawl Rod aligned back into the O/D section of the unit when installing the VB.

I wouldn't want to do this on my back with ATF dripping in my face, But it's not to bad on a lift.

 

[JHZR2]

You have to drop the Valve Body, I recommend using BOTH the manual valve & the PR valve together. The toughest part is getting the Park Pawl Rod aligned back into the O/D section of the unit when installing the VB.

I wouldn't want to do this on my back with ATF dripping in my face, But it's not to bad on a lift.

Thanks... me either!

I could theoretically drop the pan, remove the filter, put the pan back up for a few days, let everything drip, then go pull the VB... but it’s thst park pawl rod thst concerns me, and why I’d rather just do it under there...

Is it feasible to just remove the ten VB bolts and drop it down a bit, to replace those parts? It doesnt seem from the diagrams that the parts are that hard to get off/out, would angling the VB downward allow their removsl, or does the VB truly need to come out?

My concern is wrestling with it under the truck and inadvertently messing something up...

I can get the wheels 20” up in the air...

 

[clinebarger]

In my opinion....It needs complete removal. But I've never attempted to swap parts with the VB hanging.

If you have a helper turn the driveshaft while you wiggle the Park Pawl Rod back in.....I think you'll be alright.

Have you gotten any quotes for a trans shop to do this?

 

[JHZR2]

In my opinion....It needs complete removal. But I've never attempted to swap parts with the VB hanging.

If you have a helper turn the driveshaft while you wiggle the Park Pawl Rod back in.....I think you'll be alright.

Have you gotten any quotes for a trans shop to do this?

No I haven’t. But I will...

 

[ofelas]

You'll find the park pawl rod easier to remove & replace when the lever is in the 1st gear position.

I use a micro hockey stick tool on the circlip.

I would recommend you don't mess around with valve replacement if you haven't measured for bore wear before.

I'd replace the servo, accumulator, band strut & band anchor with better pieces way before I worried about the circulate in Park feature.

Just keep the 47 in N for a few seconds if you don't want to spring for a professionally done VB.

Ah oh yeah - 11 ft-lbs on the pan bolts, and if your 47RE doesn't have a reusable o-ringed pan gasket, it's Mopar # 2464324AC.

Use the open sump filter Mopar # 3515996.

 

[JHZR2]

You'll find the park pawl rod easier to remove & replace when the lever is in the 1st gear position.

I use a micro hockey stick tool on the circlip.

I would recommend you don't mess around with valve replacement if you haven't measured for bore wear before.

I'd replace the servo, accumulator, band strut & band anchor with better pieces way before I worried about the circulate in Park feature.

Just keep the 47 in N for a few seconds if you don't want to spring for a professionally done VB.

Ah oh yeah - 11 ft-lbs on the pan bolts, and if your 47RE doesn't have a reusable o-ringed pan gasket, it's Mopar # 2464324AC.

Use the open sump filter Mopar # 3515996.

Thanks! Yes that’s the filter I got, and I have the reusable gasket.

Agree keeping in N isn’t a big deal, but I also figure that if since Im not going to be putting a ton of miles, and lots of cold starts, now is the time to do any upgrades worth doing. I suspect it will be 10 years before I’d do AT service again, if I still have the truck.

Im not modifying the engine for more power - I’m happy to swap for better parts (AT is a rebuild, but I don’t know what was “upgraded”, the pump in park is a usability aspect that I think is good for a sporadically used vehicle, which is why I’m interested in that specifically...

Ive never messed with a VB before, but I’ve messed with lots of other specialty stuff, so it’s not a major concern to do it. I like the opportunity to learn.

It was also recommmended elsewhere to do the following:

For more lock-up pressure, drill up to a .106 hole here. Every transmission, even bone stock should drill this hole to at least .096" in my opinion to help the torque converter lock-up clutch to live long term

Thoughts?

 

[ofelas]

+ 0.096 is fine and safe for an otherwise stock VB/trans. Keep in mind larger orifices will harshen up the apply a tad, it's a balance between clutch longevity & parts breakage.

Ideally, if you have the same turbo/injectors, you'd get a 15SS single disc converter from Goerend, it's a whole lot more fun even on a stock truck.

They'll only guarantee their single disc converter with one of their VBs, but upping the line pressure to about 80-90psi at idle & 150-175 psi at WOT in 3rd will make any single disc converter live a healthier, longer life IF you get the better sealing servo/accumulator/strut/anchor package here to handle the extra line pressure - http://www.tcsproducts.com/products/product/a518-a618-47re-48re-combo-kit/

Better made than the equivalent off the shelf Sonnax parts.

Is your 47RE in a '96+ 12v or a 24v ?

 

[JHZR2]

+ 0.096 is fine and safe for an otherwise stock VB/trans. Keep in mind larger orifices will harshen up the apply a tad, it's a balance between clutch longevity & parts breakage.

Ideally, if you have the same turbo/injectors, you'd get a 15SS single disc converter from Goerend, it's a whole lot more fun even on a stock truck.

They'll only guarantee their single disc converter with one of their VBs, but upping the line pressure to about 80-90psi at idle & 150-175 psi at WOT in 3rd will make any single disc converter live a healthier, longer life IF you get the better sealing servo/accumulator/strut/anchor package here to handle the extra line pressure - http://www.tcsproducts.com/products/product/a518-a618-47re-48re-combo-kit/

Better made than the equivalent off the shelf Sonnax parts.

Is your 47RE in a '96+ 12v or a 24v ?

Thanks!

My 47RE is in a 1996 (180HP for AT; the MT version got 215HP that year) 2WD with 439k miles. It was replaced with a rebuilt unit about 10k miles ago (before I bought it, which is why I dont know a ton about it).

 

[ofelas]

Yes, yes, I'm familiar with the AT/MT differences, as well as the 94-96 Pees vs the 97-98 Pees.

Rest easy in the fact that you'll only spool your turbo once with an AT, as opposed to those silly MTs.

You have a 12 valve, rock it.

If you were local I'd tear that 47RE apart & mod it, tweak the valve body, and do your valve train/seals/lash + KDP, all in one fell swoop.

All for the price of at-cost parts + a 6 pack, I'd even do the KDP for a 7th beer hahahaha.

 

[JHZR2]

Yes, yes, I'm familiar with the AT/MT differences, as well as the 94-96 Pees vs the 97-98 Pees.

Rest easy in the fact that you'll only spool your turbo once with an AT, as opposed to those silly MTs.

You have a 12 valve, rock it.

If you were local I'd tear that 47RE apart & mod it, tweak the valve body, and do your valve train/seals/lash + KDP, all in one fell swoop.

All for the price of at-cost parts + a 6 pack, I'd even do the KDP for a 7th beer hahahaha.

Almost worth it for me to drive to TX or ON! I need a good road trip after all this covid stuff.

I did kdp first thing.

Cummins 5.9 Harmonic Damper Pulley Damage

Am working to get to the killer dowel pin to check it on my 96 Ram CTD. Had a heck of a time getting the harmonic damper pulley off the crank, even though the bolts were perfect and rust free. I tried knocking it and prying on it different ways. Was very hard to shimmy off. I had to use a bar...

bobistheoilguy.com

Ive adjusted valves on my old MB diesels lots of times. I haven’t done it on my 5.9 yet... it’s on the to do list. I was having a hard time getting the barring tool to lock up on the flywheel.

I am looking at that servo, accumulator, band adjustment kit you linked to above. It seems that reducing pressure leaks internally is a good thing. Is it feasible to replace all of it in truck/from underneath? Will a new servo and accumulator make much of a difference if stock?

Thanks!

 

[ofelas]

Not as nice as having the truck up on a lift, but yes, you can do all that under the truck.

Servo/accumulator etc work best on perfectly flat & pressure tested VBs, which is beyond the scope of a backyard rebuild.

Don't turn up line pressure without that billet small parts kit. You won't be able to install the fifth part (lever) without dropping the transmission btw.

No need to use the barring tool for adjusting valve lash; use a ratchet & 7/8" socket to spin the alternator nut. Set your cold lash to 8 thou I & 18 thou E rather than the recommended 10/20 thou.

Saw that thread - it's a damper, not a balancer btw.

File it smooth & it should be good to go - the rubber doesn't look bulged any more than what's normal for the age of the truck.

 

[wrcsixeight]

No snarky tone intended, but why is it desirable to have the TX pump fluid when in Park, vs just putting it in neutral with parking brake on?

Do you have a steep driveway and do not trust the parking brake?

 

[JHZR2]

Not as nice as having the truck up on a lift, but yes, you can do all that under the truck.

Servo/accumulator etc work best on perfectly flat & pressure tested VBs, which is beyond the scope of a backyard rebuild.

Don't turn up line pressure without that billet small parts kit. You won't be able to install the fifth part (lever) without dropping the transmission btw.

Do you think Id regret the servo/accumulator if I retrofitted them? The refurb AT has around 10k on it. Im not planning on installing the stiffer lever, because of the challenge of install. I dont really want to increase a ton of line pressure or get harsher shifts, just to reduce leakage and ensure longevity. If I ever upgrade power, I wouldnt go past the 215HP injectors/IP mods to align with the MT design for that year. Im not looking to add hundreds of HP.

 

[JHZR2]

No snarky tone intended, but why is it desirable to have the TX pump fluid when in Park, vs just putting it in neutral with parking brake on?

Do you have a steep driveway and do not trust the parking brake?

Just because.

To me it’s weird to start a vehicle and it not really be ready to operate right away.

Just weighing options/opinions too. The 47RE isn’t the strongest or longest lasting AT, so if I can be proactive with mods to make it last longer, why not?