Choosing a Generator

I have one of these, it’ll run nearly anything if you have the HP to pull it. A general rule of thumb is 2hp per 1 kW.

My old dairy farmer neighbor has a 50kw that he’s had to use to run his farm many times. He wanted something big enough that he could run anything farm wise without affecting the house’s needs. These are cool setups.

I’m limited to the 10kw model. My little tractor only cranks out 19.5 hp at the PTO.
 
My old dairy farmer neighbor has a 50kw that he’s had to use to run his farm many times. He wanted something big enough that he could run anything farm wise without affecting the house’s needs. These are cool setups.

I’m limited to the 10kw model. My little tractor only cranks out 19.5 hp at the PTO.
You can run a bigger generator on a smaller tractor, it’ll just bog the tractor before the generator trips. If you don’t overload the generator for the HP you have available you’ll be fine.
 
You can run a bigger generator on a smaller tractor, it’ll just bog the tractor before the generator trips. If you don’t overload the generator for the HP you have available you’ll be fine.

Just looked these up. There’s not much of a price difference between the 10 and the 15kw. 👍
 
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I've posted on some other forums, but I figured I should post the updates here too. Get ready for a few posts. Would love any input

One thing I actually need to fix is this petcock that seems to leak a very small amount of coolant. New one on the way, and coolant so I can do a full flush. Its a veerrryyy small leak

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Taking all the Sunbelt stickers off, may try use some compound so its just green with no outlines

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Went ahead and ordered this block heater kit, I figure there is a good chance this gets used in another Houston snowpocalypse

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07514DBMY

Today I fixed up some wiring, installed a short whip with a L14-30R so I can easily connect to the house by running a long cord under the unit, swapped the default 240v outlet to a L14-30R also, crimped new battery lugs, marine battery terminals and mounted the NOCO 2D battery charger. I have not got the inlet mounted just yet, still trying to figure a location

These crimp ferrules are fantastic, much better connection into something like a ground bar

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Got to use my Milwaukee light, very handy!

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Inlet could go up here easily, but not sure if thats too high, I think I want it lower down. Lower down it will be very close to the tank, so I'll have to be VERY careful drilling the hole for it

Power will go from the inlet into a box where I will connect the NOCO battery tender and the block heater I will install, and I'll have a switch for the block heater (Since its 400w)

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Just got in from some testing! APC SMT1000RM2U line interactive UPS on "Normal" mode it will complain and switch to battery. However, you can choose from "Normal" "Reduced" and "Low" Sensitivity. Changing it to Reduced, it works fine. APC Generally tells you to do this when running on generator power anyway

Charging an Ecoflow Delta 2, with no other loads plugged in, it sees the 120v and kicks on the charging circuit, but then drops out, and tries again, similar to what the UPS was doing. However, if I plug in a resistive load such as a heat gun, it will charge without issue at full power (This seems to be common with Ecoflow's and non inverter generators)

The fact the UPS doesn't complain when on the reduced mode gives me hope that most things will work with no issue.

The big test is a cheaper cheap 120v LED light bulb, plugged in, even with the heat gun running, there is some minor flickering. Not like fully on and off, but just very slight variations in light output. These cheap LED bulbs I tried with are by far the worst for flickering, so it would be interesting to see if a quality bulb flickered

Frequency is rock steady right around 60hz no matter what I do, voltage as expected is kind of erratic. With the Ecoflow charging at 1200w and the heat gun on the other leg, I got a nice 120v exactly however

The real test will be my fridge, freezer and mini split AC's. If those work, we're in business. All computers etc probably wouldn't care about the power input anyway, however, they are all on double conversion UPS in the house, so thats of zero concern. I didn't test the double conversion UPS as it means running a cord all the way through the house, however if the line interactive UPS was fine, the double conversion will be

Next test I'll dig out a spare recessed HALO branded light and see if that flickers (Thats all the lights in my house!)

Some pictures from the test. That cracked fender bugs me every time, but I have a new set on the way

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Ecoflow River 2 Pro working fine too

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Light testing rig

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Short video of testing the UPS. You can see the voltage is pretty low, however there is essentially ZERO load on the light tower at this time, the UPS draws around 150w max, there isn't that much stuff being powered by it. So pretty much worst case for power quality, but everything runs fine

Its line interactive, so its passing the power directly through to the devices, and all of the hardware worked fine as expected

 
120v inlet, decided to go right near the bottom. Had to drill the initial hole with a step bit and then use a hydraulic punch to get the full 1"-15/16 hole for the inlet

I put some wood in there just as a buffer before I slipped and hit the tank!

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Inlet installed

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Back to power tests, some very good results. Those on here who told me not to worry, were correct. Those who have issues with power out of their light tower either doesn't have enough load on it, or they have some kind of problem they should address. Voltage only really seems to be an issue at very, very low loads.

Plugging in the double conversion UPS in the house (APC SRT3000RMXLA) of course worked fine given its double conversion, but it did complain "Bypass not in range ; distorted waveform." which I do not care about, I will turn off that alert email. I bought a double conversion so I don't have to use grid power, so why would I want to bypass? Duh.

With only the UPS plugged in, the voltage was low, around 105v

That 800-900w load was enough to convince the other loads to work properly however. Plugged in the Ecoflow Delta 2 and it started charging at 1200w no problem right away. So for my needs, there is no issue there as my UPS will ALWAYS be on if on generator

With the Ecoflow now plugged in, we got to normal 120v~

I tested some more lights with this stuff plugged in. Half way through the tests the Ecoflow charged fully, however no difference in lighting output. Here are the results

GTC LED L8ECOA19927 - FAIL - Flickers - Very, very cheap, very very old LED Light bulb from Grocery store HEB

Feit Electric LED CEOM100/SCCT/4 "100w" LED Bulb - PASS - Sold at Costco, zero flicker, correct brightness

HALO Canless LED HLB6099FS1EMWR, SLDSL6069S1EMWR, HLA406FL9FS1EMWR - PASS - Sold at Home Depot, zero flicker, correct brightness

CDL CDLPS190R13 LED Can Light - PASS - Sold at Home Depot under "Commercial Electric Brand" , zero flicker, correct brightness

Videos


View: https://youtu.be/qR29jrBnBfE



View: https://youtu.be/UPedYFzZZmo


Now, the Ecoflow works good


View: https://youtu.be/7S0uOLSSD5A
 
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