If nothing else works, try cold spark plugs.
Chevy Uplander pinging problemsSorry guys this is
- Thread starter gregk24
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There may be issues with the EGR or secondary air system. most of the time these throw CEL and codes but sometimes they don't until either the EGR doesn't flow hardly at all.
Dirty injectors could be another source.
Testing the knock sensor is easy enough but knock sensor issues usually throws a code p325 or p330.
I say usually for any of this stuff because a lot of times marginal stuff gets by the ecm.
Check the fuel trims and timing to get a better idea what going on.
Dirty injectors could be another source.
Testing the knock sensor is easy enough but knock sensor issues usually throws a code p325 or p330.
I say usually for any of this stuff because a lot of times marginal stuff gets by the ecm.
Check the fuel trims and timing to get a better idea what going on.
In regards to paying 4.76 on a part that only has a chance of fixing the issue, really the other options are paying a shop 75 bucks to diagnose or trying to bench test the part. The OP doesn't sound like the is comfortable bench testing it or it would already be done. Being that it might cost four bucks in gas round trip to the shop and back, it seems like quite a value to me.
So I was asked if I would be as willing to spend it if it were my car? Obviously yes. I sure wouldn't drive around (or have my wife drive around) a van with this issue to save four dollars. It may be four lunches. It's also about 1/1000th the cost of a new engine, or 1/20th the cost of getting it towed. Again 1/20th the cost of a shop diagnosing it. Honestly, I'd replace it before taking it in to the shop just so that if their plan was to replace it for 75 bucks and have me come back if that doesn't fix it I'd be one step ahead and save one trip (and week of pinging).
So I was asked if I would be as willing to spend it if it were my car? Obviously yes. I sure wouldn't drive around (or have my wife drive around) a van with this issue to save four dollars. It may be four lunches. It's also about 1/1000th the cost of a new engine, or 1/20th the cost of getting it towed. Again 1/20th the cost of a shop diagnosing it. Honestly, I'd replace it before taking it in to the shop just so that if their plan was to replace it for 75 bucks and have me come back if that doesn't fix it I'd be one step ahead and save one trip (and week of pinging).
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Originally Posted By: Trav
There may be issues with the EGR or secondary air system. most of the time these throw CEL and codes but sometimes they don't until either the EGR doesn't flow hardly at all.
Dirty injectors could be another source.
Testing the knock sensor is easy enough but knock sensor issues usually throws a code p325 or p330.
I say usually for any of this stuff because a lot of times marginal stuff gets by the ecm.
Check the fuel trims and timing to get a better idea what going on.
I may be wrong, but I don't think it has an EGR.
There may be issues with the EGR or secondary air system. most of the time these throw CEL and codes but sometimes they don't until either the EGR doesn't flow hardly at all.
Dirty injectors could be another source.
Testing the knock sensor is easy enough but knock sensor issues usually throws a code p325 or p330.
I say usually for any of this stuff because a lot of times marginal stuff gets by the ecm.
Check the fuel trims and timing to get a better idea what going on.
I may be wrong, but I don't think it has an EGR.
No idea just a general item. Its hard to know every make and model.
Originally Posted By: bepperb
So I was asked if I would be as willing to spend it if it were my car? Obviously yes.
I was just kidding. If the knock sensor is that cheap and in a reasonably accessible place it's obviously well worth throwing one in.
So I was asked if I would be as willing to spend it if it were my car? Obviously yes.
I was just kidding. If the knock sensor is that cheap and in a reasonably accessible place it's obviously well worth throwing one in.
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