Chevrolet 350 TBI with roller camshaft

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I have an '87-and-later style (one-piece rear main, center-bolt valve covers) TBI 350 in a mid-80s El Camino. It has a Crane 2032 roller camshaft, nothing radical. I did the conversion from carburetor to TBI myself on the 305 it replaced, using GM Camaro/Firebird components. The engine now has about 50K miles. I typically drive the vehicle once a week, even in winter, and I take care not to short-trip it - I don't drive it if it's not going to stay at operating temperature for at least 10-15 minutes.

It never freezes here, and once a year I take it on a long road trip (about 900 miles) in the middle of August, when it's typically 105 F in the middle of the day. I've been changing the oil and filter approximately once a year. I'm on pace to put 4000-5000 miles on it this year.

My only concern is that after swapping the old worn-out 305 for the 350, a mistake was made - one of the new, larger injectors ended up crooked in the injector pod, and the resulting gasoline leak put a lot of fuel into the crankcase. We recognized the problem (hard to miss - the engine didn't run well) and didn't drive it until that problem was fixed, and immediately changed the oil and filter, because I know gasoline cuts oil. What I've always wondered, though, is how much (if any) damage that event caused.

At 50K miles on the engine, it uses a quart in 1500-2000 miles. Early in the engine's life I used Pennzoil 5W-30, and then I switched to Mobil 1 to try to extend the intervals because I was driving a long way for work every day. Now I typically drive it about 30 miles to work and back one day a week, and on weekends, so it gets 50-100 miles on it a week.

I've been doing oil changes yearly since retiring it to "pleasure" status, and if I remember right, what's in it now is a mix of what I had left of Mobil 1 10W-30, and SuperTech conventional 10W-30. I'm still using my stock of ACDelco PF35 filters, and I change the filter once a year with the oil.

The engine doesn't leak or smoke, and the oil stays clean-looking. It has about 3100 miles on the oil since I changed it last January, it's medium-brown, and I have to turn the dipstick and squint to see where the lighter-colored oil at the top is on the stick (IOW, it's not much darker than fresh out of the bottle). Valve guides tend to be a factor on Chevy small-blocks, but I don't see the puff of blue smoke at start-up that I saw with the worn-out 305, so they may be OK for a while.

My feeling is that with this low mileage, and considering I warm it up to operating temperature every time I drive it, I can probably never benefit from synthetic. I'm hesitant to extend the OCI out more than a year, simply because I'm a little nervous about not being able to get the filter off after a long time! My feeling is to just keep going with either SuperTech or Pennzoil conventional and not worry about it.

This engine has very strong oil pressure, never shows lower than 30 at idle, and about 45-50 at cruise. I see very slightly lower pressure with 5W-30 than 10W-30, and with 5W- the pressure comes down a little quicker as the engine warms up, but someone who is not familiar with the car wouldn't notice it. I don't see any difference in consumption between the two grades.

Is there any compelling reason to use synthetic oil in this application? My inclination is to keep going with whatever recognized brand of conventional oil is on sale, combined with an ACDelco or Fram filter, and keep changing it once a year like I"ve been doing.
 
Anything under a 5000 mile interval is a waste for a synthetic. With your driving habits and typical mileage a conventional is more than adequate.
 
Thanks! I couldn't see a compelling reason to use anything other than conventional, and I always get a chuckle when I check or add oil: the original-to-the-car dipstick reads "USE ONLY SF ENGINE OIL." There've been a few new standards since then!

Another thing that's curious to me is that the non-severe service schedule in the owner's manual calls for an oil change every 12 months or 7500 miles, and a filter change every other oil change - and that's with a filter half the size of what I use. (GM cars back then got a 1/2-qt. filter, while trucks with the same engine got a 1-qt. filter; I've always used the 1-qt. filter because there is no clearance problem and I hate pouring partial quarts.) I'm still hesitant to leave a filter on for two years, but with a thin film of oil on the gasket like we're supposed to do, maybe it isn't as bad as I fear.

Thanks!
 
I use a dab of moly grease and wipe it around the filter gasket before I put it on for vehicles that will only get changed annually. Always comes off with a simple filter wrench. You don't need to kill the gasket when you install, firmly hand tight has always been good enough for me ...

On my vehicles with older engines and few driven miles, I use fleet oils (Delo, Delvac, Rotella - dino) as the drain-off phenomena from synthetics leaves them with a thin film after sitting. Always too mush clatter until they've run a bit. I don't like clatter.

With fleet oils, always quiet starts
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On the gasoline cut worry - don't. Gas and oil get mixed all the time for 2-strokes and they still lube. Lot's of 4-stroke bike engines will pool gas in the crankcase if the petcock is left on. You know because the oil level is too high ... Always just drain and put in fresh oil and you are OK. You caught yours plenty early. You're fine
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Yeah, I never use a tool to install the filter. It's easy to reach from under the car and I turn it about a turn past gasket contact or so, then once I've refilled it with oil, I start the engine, and get back under the car to check for leaks. No leaks, I'm done. I can sometimes remove the filter with only my hands, but I usually don't try and go right for the filter wrench.

I remember my dad once spending what seemed like most of a day, trying to remove a filter on a car that had apparently had a gorilla work on it last. He finally ended up driving a screwdriver through it to put enough force on it to loosen it. That's where my "no tools" policy for filter installation comes from!
 
I am confused on how a crooked injector would cause fuel to get into the oil?
 
GM TBI injectors sit deep in a cavity in the injector pod, and a plate goes on top of them. Each injector has a little pin that sticks out the side, and it must align with a slot in the cavity. I did not notice that at first, so I put the injectors in with the wrong orientation, causing them to be cocked slightly, and that meant that the gasket did not seal when the plate was put on top of the injectors. The result was when the engine was started, fuel shot out of that gap, down the throttle bore into the intake manifold, and ultimately past the rings. It was a wonder the engine ran at all; it ran very badly.

It was a very very stupid mistake. The engine was only run a few minutes that way, and not under load, but a lot more than four quarts drained out of the pan, and it was very thin. I think it was actually a combination of oil, gasoline, and water, because a lot of water was coming out the tailpipe while the injector pod was leaking.

Since then, the engine has always acted healthy overall, plenty of power, no smoke, oil staying clean-looking for a long time, spark plugs looking normal, but it does consume a little. This is a GM "target" long block so I've wondered if it might not have the tightest tolerances from the factory.

At any rate, checking the oil when I get gas and adding a little a couple of times a year is a lot cheaper and easier than tearing into it for something that probably really isn't a problem.
 
The block was made in 2006 or '07. It was a replacement for a very tired 305 the car came with in '84. The 350 has about 50K miles on it.

I mentioned '87-and-later because that was the year of the switch to a one-piece rear main seal instead of two-piece, and to center-bolt valve covers instead of perimeter-bolt. Both changes addressed common leak points on the small-block Chevy and I've been very happy.

FWIW, the oil fill cap that came with the block says 5W-30. I don't see any difference between it and 10W-30, except the oil pressure comes down a bit faster in winter with 5W-30 (which is fine - this block has very strong oil pressure). Consumption is the same with either grade.
 
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