Check your laundry washer hoses.

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They recommend replacing every 7-10 years regardless of how they look.

Here is a 6 year old hose I just replaced.
1749062474768.webp


Also if using with a frontloader find ones that have at least 1/2" inside diameter for efficient rinse cycles.
They are usually marked as high flow or high efficiency hoses.

its hard to tell in the pic I'm posting below but the bulkier right hose is about 30% bigger inside diameter.
The "silver" hose looks the same diameter but it isnt.

Since frontloaders "spin rinse" vs a top loader that refills
its important that your hoses can flow enough rinse water to make the cycle efficient.

1749062713851.webp



I replaced with these rather spendy hoses.. and I wanted 4' but good luck finding all that.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Homewer...ng-Machine-Fill-Hose-Pair-HRBFIL07B/305341002


Another oddity: The bad hose was the cold water hose.. the hot water hose looked 100% mint brand new shape...(figured the hot water side would look worse?)
must have been a defect.
 
So, timely post. The agitator in my 10 year old LG Direct drive washer just broke (evidently a common issue.) Ordered the part. Looks like an easy fix ($200 later....)

You have me thinking about the hoses now. I think I'll replace them. They're original.....10 years old the coming fall.

Those are spendy for 5 year hoses! $40....

These look identical to the ones I have on now, and they're almost 10 years old.

Just purchased: https://a.co/d/7D4pHMt
 
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Those are spendy for 5 year hoses! $40....
48 something with tax.
the cheaper hoses all had tiny TINY I mean TINY!!!! holes for the water to flow at the fittings.
These are braided 3 layer hose with pvc on top.. not just cheap rubber hose.

1/2" vs 3/8" if the inside of the hose is the same is well over double the flow.(If my math is right someone can factcheck that)

These were a cheaper pair.. there is a reason why they dont show you the actual hole and diameter.
1749063962329.webp
 
The first picture shows what appears to be corrosion damage due to electrolysis between two incompatible metals, similar to a sacrificial anode. I wonder if it is an issue with certain armored hoses which have the braided jackets? I have never experienced that kind of damage with non-armored rubber hoses.
 
My washer and dryer pairs typically last 5-6 years ... so I just buy new hoses with each new set.
 
The first picture shows what appears to be corrosion damage due to electrolysis between two incompatible metals, similar to a sacrificial anode. I wonder if it is an issue with certain armored hoses which have the braided jackets? I have never experienced that kind of damage with non-armored rubber hoses.
The hot water hose was mint.
the fittings are plastic at one end and brass at one end connected to pex.
all pipes are pex.
 
48 something with tax.
the cheaper hoses all had tiny TINY I mean TINY!!!! holes for the water to flow at the fittings.
These are braided 3 layer hose with pvc on top.. not just cheap rubber hose.

1/2" vs 3/8" if the inside of the hose is the same is well over double the flow.(If my math is right someone can factcheck that)

These were a cheaper pair.. there is a reason why they dont show you the actual hole and diameter.
View attachment 283174
True, but hasn't been a problem for me.
 
Also if using with a frontloader find ones that have at least 1/2" inside diameter for efficient rinse cycles.
They are usually marked as high flow or high efficiency hoses
while i’m all for flow rate, 3/8 ID can still do 2-3 GPM at 60 psi. 1/2” is good for 8ish gpm i think. 2-3GPM should be plenty of water for a washing machine.
 
This is a helpful PSA. My washer hoses are around 10 years old. I think it’s time. I have to ask though, why does the ID of the hose affect the wash cycle? If anything it’ll just take a couple seconds longer to fill the machine before the cycle starts/continues. But the cycle should run normally regardless, since the movement of water within the machine isn’t dependent on the fill hoses.
 
I have an Iowa built Maytag stacker/washer drier with the original mechanical timer dial that is 22 years old and never had an issue. I will never replace this but if it needs a repair will give it my best shot.
 
This is a helpful PSA. My washer hoses are around 10 years old. I think it’s time. I have to ask though, why does the ID of the hose affect the wash cycle? If anything it’ll just take a couple seconds longer to fill the machine before the cycle starts/continues. But the cycle should run normally regardless, since the movement of water within the machine isn’t dependent on the fill hoses.
How a front loader does the rinse cycle.
They do a spray rinse.. less water flow = less rinse.

For a toploader..they usually do a full rinse by filling the tub.

For me I decided the extra $20 on hoses that last 10 years was worth it to me.
They were clearly built superior to the cheaper hoses.

If I could have found regular cheaper hoses with the 1/2 ID I would have had a harder decision.
 
Another PSA:
Shut the water off when you're going to be away for more than a day.
Any plumbing in the whole house can fail under supplied pressure at any time, not just washer or dishwasher or icemaker hoses, even though it probably won't.
 
Another PSA:
Shut the water off when you're going to be away for more than a day.
Any plumbing in the whole house can fail under supplied pressure at any time, not just washer or dishwasher or icemaker hoses, even though it probably won't.
I have dealt with water disasters that occured when homeowners went away on vacation. One in particular comes to mind where the house was virtually destroyed by a massive plumbing failure that was probably kept running for days while they were away.
 
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