Cheap Chinese hammer Test

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I was in our local industrial supply store the other day, Normally this place sells good quality stuff, but they do also sell some cheap junk. Think Harbour Freight.
Anyway, this visit they had a bucket of Claw Hammers on the counter, $2.50 each!

The guy behind the counter saw me looking at them, and said "They are a good deal, some places would charge $3.50 for a hammer like that ;-) "

I could not resist.

So, how good is a $2.50 hammer?

I thought it might be fun if the members here suggest how I could conduct this test.
I do not wish to just break it, I want to try and quantify just what the hammer might do

From the start. THIS IS NOT AN ESTWING! If you bought this hammer to set out to Frame a house, more fool you.

So lets look at it:

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/153/p1000359d.jpg/

It Looks Nasty! The shaft is some kind of plastic, the handle injection molded plastic that seems a little slippery (may just be mold release coating) The head may be a little askew (Others in the bucket seemed OK, But I thought I should test the first out of the bucket)
Weight and balance seem Good (I am used to using a 16oz claw with a wooden handle)
The Claw is sharp, but just seems to be cast not Forged.

So, what to do?
Bare in mind my time is limited, and I don't spend my life in front of a computer. So please don't expect instant replies.
Also, It's my Hammer. Ultimately, I reserve the right as to what I do with it.
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The main thing to look out for on cheapo hammers is that the end will fly off if it gets used too much or swung too hard.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Try driving some dock spikes into a 4x4
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With respect, I was thinking of starting with 2" Brads in old growth Fir,
and see how it marks the head. Then Pull the same.

Like I said, I would first want to see what it CAN do before I find out what it can't.
 
Wear some (american) goggles in case flakes of hammer come off.

I would just get right to bustin' rocks like a prisoner.
 
Well I started with a Dozen 2 3/4" Brads, the wood is quite hard!

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/38/p10003

When pulling the Brads I was exceeding about 40 lbs pull on the handle*, and there was some Flex in the shaft.
I then used a block when pulling the rest (I'll test for a greater pull later)

So far, no Pits on the face of the head, no notches in the Claw.

* Pull is assessed by standing on a bathroom scale when pulling down. Handle is held in the normal position, mid point of my grip is about 12" from the head.

"Wear some (american) goggles in case flakes of hammer come off."

Heck, I'm wearing a Flak jacket!
 
Heh heh a few yrs ago, My son and I "won" 'the worst breakdown and still made it' award getting to a show in Mississauga. It was a very nicely made 16 Oz. curved claw with a wooden handle. Made in Canada. A power cord was added for whimsy. Banging in nails wont tell you much. What happens when you pull a nail is the real test of a hammer.
 
I think I have a hammer just like that from HF. I beat the snot out of it and it hasn't broke yet. The worst I have done so far is take a small chip off the handle.
 
So far a doz. 2 3/4 brads "finish nails?".

You've already sunk 6 to 8 more nails than I've used in the past 10 years with my Harbor Freight hammer. So I guess mine is going to be just fine for me.
 
The Spruce was too easy, I moved along to 2nd growth Fir (Dry for 50 years)

Most nails bent, the wood is hard and the 'off kilter' head is slippery.
Still I got a few in to the last 14" and pulled them out.

The pull was over 100lbs perhaps 120lbs.

There is a small notch in the claw that may not be visible in the photo, but I can feel in with my thumb nail.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/4/p1000362pu.jpg/
 
I think I'll test the claw by swinging the hammer so the claw catches the shank of the nail, as you might if the head was missing or you needed to gain another purchase when pulling a long nail.

I believe the head is cast, so this might shock the claw into chipping.
I'll wear my Kevlar codpiece for this one!

If anyone has any ideas what to do next with this hammer, please come forward.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/203/p1000363po.jpg/

I don't often post pics on this site, can someone help me get them to show on the screen?
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Wear some (american) goggles in case flakes of hammer come off.


I paid a dollar for a similar hammer about ten years ago. I was using it to drive a rusted bolt out of a piece of heavy metal. Ever time I would strike, something would bite/sting my arm. Turns out, the face of the hammer was flaking to pieces and shooting metal in all directions.
 
Originally Posted By: GreeCguy
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Wear some (american) goggles in case flakes of hammer come off.


I paid a dollar for a similar hammer about ten years ago. I was using it to drive a rusted bolt out of a piece of heavy metal. Ever time I would strike, something would bite/sting my arm. Turns out, the face of the hammer was flaking to pieces and shooting metal in all directions.


I have seen this even with quality hammers that are case hardened. Hit hardened steel with hardened steel and something has to give.
When I was at school, in Woodwork class, one kid was playing around banging two hammers together (they bounce a great deal) The kid got a beating (cane) an both hammers were thrown out.
We all got a lecture on case hardened hammer heads.
Claw hammers are not for metalwork.

But yeh, we all do it at some time.
 
Originally Posted By: expat
......
If anyone has any ideas what to do next with this hammer, please come forward.


Do like that Knife set on the infomercial does. Get yourself a cheap Ginsu 2000 and start cutting the head of the hammer with the ginsu! Then see if the Ginsu slices a tomato razor thin afterwards. If the Ginsu is fubar'd then maybe use the Ginsu as an oil filter cutter and cut yourself open an Orange Can of Death! LMAO. Sorry I couldn't help myself.
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Update:

I have been using the hammer the last couple of weeks while re-wiring our attic and adding trusses to the roof.
While re-wiring I was mainly ripping out old wire staples and electrical boxes (often just smashing out with the claw)

I have also helped a friend build a cement block wall.
This resulted in what was really 'Hammer abuse' pulling out forms from the footing and chipping cement as well as tapping down cement blocks when building the wall.

The hammer is cosmetically marred, but otherwise unscathed.
It has proved to be a good serviceable hammer, but (to me) does not 'feel right' This would NOT be my hammer of choice for a job that would not be abusive to the hammer.

On reflection, I should have bought the one with the non-crooked head!

It's not a Great hammer, it's not junk.
For most people it would probably be the only hammer they would need.
 
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