I have a 2000 suburban with 170K that, as far as I know, has never had the Transmission fluid changed. I've heard many times stories where people in my shoes change their transmission fluid and then the transmission goes south. Anyone else heard this or confirm it? Should I change the fluid or leave it alone.
Changing Tranny Fluid - 2000 Suburban
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The consensus from previous posts on this matter seems to be that a drain and fill/filter change is unlikely to cause a problem, and that if it happens to fail after said change, it was probably on its way out regardless. Quite a few people seem to have the opinion that a power flush could drive accumulated debris into places you don't want it, which makes sense to me.
Originally Posted By: fsdork
The consensus from previous posts on this matter seems to be that a drain and fill/filter change is unlikely to cause a problem, and that if it happens to fail after said change, it was probably on its way out regardless. Quite a few people seem to have the opinion that a power flush could drive accumulated debris into places you don't want it, which makes sense to me.
Except there is really nothing called a "power flush". A flush uses the transmission's pump to pump ATF just like it does when you are driving. The flush machine measures the quantity of ATF being pushed out of the the transmission and replaces it into the pan at the same rate.
If you are concerned then do a couple of drain and refill. But the filter should be changed with the first dump and refill. After that you can use the drain plug (if equipped) or a MityVac or drop just the pan.
I suggest Amsoil ATF. Its one of the best available.
You can flush it yourself with $1.00 worth of hose from HomeDepot.
The consensus from previous posts on this matter seems to be that a drain and fill/filter change is unlikely to cause a problem, and that if it happens to fail after said change, it was probably on its way out regardless. Quite a few people seem to have the opinion that a power flush could drive accumulated debris into places you don't want it, which makes sense to me.
Except there is really nothing called a "power flush". A flush uses the transmission's pump to pump ATF just like it does when you are driving. The flush machine measures the quantity of ATF being pushed out of the the transmission and replaces it into the pan at the same rate.
If you are concerned then do a couple of drain and refill. But the filter should be changed with the first dump and refill. After that you can use the drain plug (if equipped) or a MityVac or drop just the pan.
I suggest Amsoil ATF. Its one of the best available.
You can flush it yourself with $1.00 worth of hose from HomeDepot.
Spent fluid is doing you no favors. Drop the pan change filter and re fill. Mix it with some driving and you should replace the pan contents at least two more times this way. I use a vacuum pump to suck the pan mostly dry so I only have to drop the pan if I'm changing a filter.
If that's a dex 3 application I can recommend max life dex/merc.
If that's a dex 3 application I can recommend max life dex/merc.
I am undergoing the same maintenance hurdle you are facing. That is the so called myth or rule of not changing an old or neglected ATF. This adage is not a myth, but is somewhat overblown. My understanding is as follows;
- if your transmission is in good shape, then a drain and fill should be good.
- if the transmission has problems, then the new fluid might magnify them.
The true enemies of ATF are high temperatures and oxidation, and the transmission was designed to operate with good fluid. With the ATF, normally their detergent, dispersant, surfactant attributes, and the red dye are the first ones to fade over time. But its lubricating, cooling, and hydraulic attributes normally last longer.
If you add new fluid to your transmission, it is possible to lift a lot of varnish and sludge which will clutter the fluid. Those could affect its performance overwhelming the filters and reducing lubrication. Then, you need to be ready to start a short series of drain and refills, to include pan drops, magnet cleanings, filter changes if possible, and cleaning the crud in the pan. That should offset most of the adverse effects of the new fluid in the neglected transmission. Now, if it has something deeper such as weak seals, that is another story.
I would most definitely stay well clear from a flush service. I don't know of a single auto maker which endorses them.
Now, if anybody with relevant expertise is willing to expand or instruct me, please, I am listening.
- if your transmission is in good shape, then a drain and fill should be good.
- if the transmission has problems, then the new fluid might magnify them.
The true enemies of ATF are high temperatures and oxidation, and the transmission was designed to operate with good fluid. With the ATF, normally their detergent, dispersant, surfactant attributes, and the red dye are the first ones to fade over time. But its lubricating, cooling, and hydraulic attributes normally last longer.
If you add new fluid to your transmission, it is possible to lift a lot of varnish and sludge which will clutter the fluid. Those could affect its performance overwhelming the filters and reducing lubrication. Then, you need to be ready to start a short series of drain and refills, to include pan drops, magnet cleanings, filter changes if possible, and cleaning the crud in the pan. That should offset most of the adverse effects of the new fluid in the neglected transmission. Now, if it has something deeper such as weak seals, that is another story.
I would most definitely stay well clear from a flush service. I don't know of a single auto maker which endorses them.
Now, if anybody with relevant expertise is willing to expand or instruct me, please, I am listening.
I changed out the fluid (I assume it was the factory fill) in my Burban at around 140,000 miles, about 2 years ago. It's now over 150,000 and has been doing fine, other than starting in 2nd once in a blue moon but I believe that's unrelated to the fluid change.
Did a complete change on my '93 Ford Taurus back in March of this year. Fluid that came out was coffee black and transmission was shifting poorly and slipping. Since the fluid/filter change, it's been working great.
The way I did it was I bought a hand pump at Advanced Auto, (the cheap orange plastic one), pumped the fluid out via the filler tube. Then I dropped the pan and replaced the filter. Then I refilled transmission to proper level and from then on, one a week, I would pump fluid out via the filler tube with my hand pump and replace. Kept doing that till I had replaced 15 quarts. Was extremely easy to do. It worked so well I did my other car ('95 Olds Cutlass) and my daughter's van, (97 Olds). All are working well.
The way I did it was I bought a hand pump at Advanced Auto, (the cheap orange plastic one), pumped the fluid out via the filler tube. Then I dropped the pan and replaced the filter. Then I refilled transmission to proper level and from then on, one a week, I would pump fluid out via the filler tube with my hand pump and replace. Kept doing that till I had replaced 15 quarts. Was extremely easy to do. It worked so well I did my other car ('95 Olds Cutlass) and my daughter's van, (97 Olds). All are working well.
Also if the transmission is original try to change the rear end fluid and diff after your transmission is done and shifting good. I'm sure the wear metals there are huge.
That's only if the transmission is already jerking.
If your transmissions still shifts smoothly and feels fine, then changing the fluid is a GREAT thing to do.
Mag 1 Synthetic ATF is great stuff at an unbeatable deal. Under $5 per quart for a top quality synthetic ATF. Amazon has it with free shipping, but Pep Boys also carries it at a fair price.
Also, GM is too stupid/cheap to equip their transmissions with drain plugs. The good news is that aftermarket transmission pans are available that have the drain plug. Since you have to remove the pan anyway, that would be a great time to install the new pan.
If your transmissions still shifts smoothly and feels fine, then changing the fluid is a GREAT thing to do.
Mag 1 Synthetic ATF is great stuff at an unbeatable deal. Under $5 per quart for a top quality synthetic ATF. Amazon has it with free shipping, but Pep Boys also carries it at a fair price.
Also, GM is too stupid/cheap to equip their transmissions with drain plugs. The good news is that aftermarket transmission pans are available that have the drain plug. Since you have to remove the pan anyway, that would be a great time to install the new pan.
The other thing that is true about a flush from a shop is many shops do not want to do it on a high mileage vehicle where there is no history of an AFT change. The vehicle maybe having problems and that is why it was brought in for a flush. The shop does not make a lot on a flush and if the vehicle that was already having problems finally gives out the shop will be blamed. That really has more to do with the vehicle having existing problems than the flush causing a problem.
Originally Posted By: tommygunn
Also, GM is too stupid/cheap to equip their transmissions with drain plugs.
Hmmm, since many of our GM fleet came with drain plugs from the factory...?
Give it some thought.
Also, GM is too stupid/cheap to equip their transmissions with drain plugs.
Hmmm, since many of our GM fleet came with drain plugs from the factory...?
Give it some thought.
MolaKule
Staff member
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: tommygunn
Also, GM is too stupid/cheap to equip their transmissions with drain plugs.
Hmmm, since many of our GM fleet came with drain plugs from the factory...?
Give it some thought.
For Light trucks and cars, I wish? There is not one on my TrailBlazer.
Originally Posted By: tommygunn
Also, GM is too stupid/cheap to equip their transmissions with drain plugs.
Hmmm, since many of our GM fleet came with drain plugs from the factory...?
Give it some thought.
For Light trucks and cars, I wish? There is not one on my TrailBlazer.
To the OP: Check under the vehicle. You should have a drain plug, as there was a short run (1999-2003 or thereabouts) when Chevy included them, even on half-tons.
If you have a plug, it would be simple to drain and fill the pan once, and then run it for awhile to see how the partial change does. If all goes well, a pan drop and filter change would be logical, along with more drain/fills or a shadetree "flush."
If you do have the drain plug, be really careful removing it--it will be tight, and a socket will slip easily and round off the corners. I use a long ratchet and get directly underneath to push the socket against the plug while loosening.
If you have a plug, it would be simple to drain and fill the pan once, and then run it for awhile to see how the partial change does. If all goes well, a pan drop and filter change would be logical, along with more drain/fills or a shadetree "flush."
If you do have the drain plug, be really careful removing it--it will be tight, and a socket will slip easily and round off the corners. I use a long ratchet and get directly underneath to push the socket against the plug while loosening.
If you do have a drain plug in the pan and it hasn't been out yet do not try to remove the plug without first heating it. If you try to remove it cold, it will just go round on you and that's more work if you decide to make it come out.
The only problem you might run into is . Shift cable . Might need bent it a little for the pan to clear for drop . Or take the shifter off .
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