Changing the transmission filter un-needed?

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Originally Posted By: turtlevette
Then people blame it on the maxlife fluid instead of their own incompetence.

You could have at least waited until (or if) his vacation ends, so as not to diminish the entertainment potential of that comment.
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Originally Posted By: MolaKule
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Are you speaking of the course "strainers" in, for example, the Nissan Transmissions, or the filter in the plastic filter assemblies such as the GM or other transmissions?. The strainers aren't filters.

Neither I nor my mechanic have heard of any problem with any o-rings being sucked up into the internals by any competent service group. Nor are they difficult to remove.

I have seen the synthetic filter material in the filter assemblies laden with clutch particles, which is what these filters are designed to trap.

Replacing the fluid refreshes the additives and gets rid of many particulates.

Wiping the pan and cleaning the filter magnet also insures nothing gets washed back into the transmission.



No, I'm saying the gm filter doesn't filter fine particles. I'm curious. Have you ever done one by yourself? How much have you worked on engines?
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
Then people blame it on the maxlife fluid instead of their own incompetence.

You could have at least waited until (or if) his vacation ends, so as not to diminish the entertainment potential of that comment.
wink.gif



Are you saying I'm taking a poke at someone? I never start [censored]? Me?
 
I saw a few GM filters, and other car brands loaded with junk over the years. A filter replacement and fresh fluid was a tremendous improvement for the owners of those vehicles. If you don't have an inline filter or remote transmission filter a pan drop and filter replacement should be part of any good transmission maintenance program. Even then a pan drop and inspection of the existing filter [once in a while] would be a good idea to make sure the secondary filter is doing its job.
 
I quit buying new vehicles long ago-so when I aquire a new to me vehicle I change most all fluids and establish my own new maint baseline. On AT cars with a pan I drop it and inspect it for debris-then change the filter. Sometimes on a pan with no drain I've either added one or used a pan with the drain. I may never again drop the pan depending on the fluid inspection on later drain and re-fills.
 
What can be stuck in these course screens? I mean, honestly!!

The screens are pathetic. They can catch a shop rag, a 3/8" socket, or golf balls. But anything smaller is ludicrous.

Now, is there is filter media involved, go ahead, please change it.

But I'm no fan of in-line filters either. I'd rather just keep crash ATF in it at all times.
 
Dang timeout. Edited below.


Originally Posted By: Phishin
What can be stuck in these course screens? I mean,
honestly!!

The screens are pathetic. They can catch a shop rag, a 3/8" socket, or golf balls. But anything smaller is ludicrous.

Now, IF there is filter media involved, go ahead, please change it.

But I'm no fan of in-line filters either. I'd rather just keep FRESH ATF in it at all times.
 
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Originally Posted By: Phishin
What can be stuck in these course screens? I mean, honestly!!

The screens are pathetic. They can catch a shop rag, a 3/8" socket, or golf balls. But anything smaller is ludicrous


And yet the one in my Sienna with the screen is still going after 300,000+ miles. I'm pretty sure if a "better" filter was needed Aisin would have put one in.
 
I agree in principle with the original premise of this thread.

Most wear in an automatic transmission occurs in the first 10-15,000 miles from new, and it is this wear material the filter is designed to catch. My thinking is that if you change the factory filter at 15-20,000 miles, you will have caught most of the wear material the unit is likely to generate. I think that changing the filter with every drain & fill is akin to changing the motor oil every 3k: it won't hurt anything, but it buys you nothing.

I do think changing the filter again at the 100,000 mile mark would be good practice, but frankly having fresh fluid is way more important than changing the filter.
 
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
That's pretty much the mentality of one of the 4L60E gurus. He says just get the cheapest fluid you can find, and flush once a year.


Maybe a certain mentality but I wouldn't call him a guru.
 
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My first encounter with an AT transmission trouble was fixed by changing the fluid and filter. The filter was clogged enough to reduce flow to the TC so the car would barely move. A pan drop, fluid and filter, Not a single problem afterward with the 727. The only other troubles have been leaks with any of my various ATs.
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