My car battery will be 5 years old the first week of January 2026. I have no problems with it so far. Do batteries need to be replaced the fifth year exactly on the date of installation or can they last longer? Will there be warning signs / sounds indicating that a new battery is needed so I can get a new one before it gives out completely?
change battery exactly on the fifth year?
- Thread starter vicjo
- Start date
They can last much longer. I wouldn't replace until you start seeing issues. I think shorter life is seen in areas of extreme cold or extreme heat. VA is pretty moderate. That said, do what makes you comfortable. Some people are risk adverse cost be ****ed some like to push the limit to save some cash.
Buy a tester or get it checked at a shop like AutoZone /
I wouldn't. Batteries can last for a long time or for a short time - it depends.
You can not prevent a battery from ever failing you. We all do stupid things and a perfectly good battery may fail because we did something dumb. So let the battery run until it fails for no apparent reason.
And change the battery the first time your vehicle won't start and there is no apparent reason (like having left a light on, or you forgot to charge it and it's been sitting for a month).
And by not replacing your battery on a schedule you can afford a battery charger. I have a CTEK charger. It works well.
You can not prevent a battery from ever failing you. We all do stupid things and a perfectly good battery may fail because we did something dumb. So let the battery run until it fails for no apparent reason.
And change the battery the first time your vehicle won't start and there is no apparent reason (like having left a light on, or you forgot to charge it and it's been sitting for a month).
And by not replacing your battery on a schedule you can afford a battery charger. I have a CTEK charger. It works well.
After 5 years, I begin to suspect them. Of course, batteries can fail before that. At 1st issue, I head off to Costco and swap in a new on.
I also carry a battery jump starter in the cars. Getting tool old to push...
I also carry a battery jump starter in the cars. Getting tool old to push...
My factory battery lasted around 8.5 years, and I replaced it preemptively. Since replacing that one in fall of 2019, I've trusted my lithium jumpstarter and test the battery every fall or so after it's a few years old. I haven't had to use that jumpstarter on my own car, but I've used it on others' cars in parking lots and the like instead of jumping with the car. I've always been impressed by how well it works!
(I did use a jump pack once on my old Buick, which had its fairly-new-but-outside-of-warranty AC Delco fail without warning once after work. Initially I thought it was a problem with the car itself, as the key was stuck in the ignition, but it turned out to just be a GM quirk for dead batteries.)
(I did use a jump pack once on my old Buick, which had its fairly-new-but-outside-of-warranty AC Delco fail without warning once after work. Initially I thought it was a problem with the car itself, as the key was stuck in the ignition, but it turned out to just be a GM quirk for dead batteries.)
If you're taking a summer trip to Death Valley, CA, replace it before the trip.
Generally, I run them until I see an issue ( hard starts, etc.)
However, when they get older, I will either have them tested or will test them myself with my own tester.
With all the electronics in newer vehicles, a five year swap might not be the worst idea.
My next door neighbor had an older Accord that the dash would fully light up and quit running.
I told him to check the battery. His mechanic said that it tested fine.
This went on for eight months until the battery totally woofed.
He put a new battery in and it has been fine since.
Batteries can do some weird things, particularly with newer vehicles.
However, when they get older, I will either have them tested or will test them myself with my own tester.
With all the electronics in newer vehicles, a five year swap might not be the worst idea.
My next door neighbor had an older Accord that the dash would fully light up and quit running.
I told him to check the battery. His mechanic said that it tested fine.
This went on for eight months until the battery totally woofed.
He put a new battery in and it has been fine since.
Batteries can do some weird things, particularly with newer vehicles.
My 2017 is still on the original Batt, starts readily even when it sits 2 weeks. I do have a Li jump pack that I have used for others but not myself
I start getting leary with them around 5 years also. But, I'm in a climate that runs from Arctic Blasts of -2 degrees to Heat Waves of 102 degrees. I only run FLA batteries because that's what my old beaters call for. I check the electrolyte levels 1X a year and keep them on a maintainter with a built in de-sulfator every night to top them off. Using this procedure, I get 6-7 years out of them in my particular climate.
SammyChevelleTypeS3
$50 site donor 2023
When it comes to knowing when a battery is getting close to death....... I really used to be able to tell by the sound of my vehicles starting when a battery was going weak or ready to drop dead. No more.
So the best thing I did to deal with and attempt to eliminate the surprise dead ones.....? I purchased a cheap battery / alternator tester. While these may not be 100% accurate , they can at least head off the unpleasant dead battery surprise when one least expects it.
So the best thing I did to deal with and attempt to eliminate the surprise dead ones.....? I purchased a cheap battery / alternator tester. While these may not be 100% accurate , they can at least head off the unpleasant dead battery surprise when one least expects it.
Ancel makes some nice battery testers. Both handheld, and units that can be wired into vehicles.
New batteries test cca being greater than 1.333 X the rated.
When they age and degrade so as to show cca les than 1.1 X rated cca when having 75 % or greater charge and not below 70 degree F, then swap in a new one, because it may fail soon.
New batteries test cca being greater than 1.333 X the rated.
When they age and degrade so as to show cca les than 1.1 X rated cca when having 75 % or greater charge and not below 70 degree F, then swap in a new one, because it may fail soon.
Thanks for all the advice. I'll hold on to the battery and price the testers. Over the years I've had a couple of batteries make the "clicking" sound. After that sometimes the car started, sometimes it did not.
The ANCEL BA101 is a BITOG favorite that goes on sale around Black Friday for ~$22. I also suggest getting a Li-Ion battery jump pack such as the GooLoo GP4000 for peace of mind. I've used it many more times to help others than on my personal vehicles.
When using these modern battery testers, the terminals must be clean and snug. And the tester only provides valid data when connected right at the battery right on the connector is good enough, or better would be right on the battery terminals.
Some vehicles have batteries in hidden away locations with jump post under the hood someplace. You can not get any accurate reading with these modern battery testers at those jump post. Theres too much wire between them and the battery.
These testers use changes of battery voltage at more than one loading of the battery to accurately calculate the internal resistance of the battery. This is in milli-Ohms. That thousanths of Ohms. Such as if it says 3.2 milli-Ohms, that is 3.2 / 1000 of an Ohm.
The wire between a battery and remote jump points adds enough additiinnal resistance to the circuit that theres no way these testers can read a battery from those locations.
These testers work great if used at the battery post or on the connections at the battery if the connections are clean and snug.
Just dont even try to use them on remote jump locations.
I like my tester, and use it often. It caught a few batteries ready to fail and saved friends and family from no-starts.
One family member decided to not listen, and did not replace their battery when I told them to. When it failed a few months later, it unfortunately started a domino effect that cost a heck of a lot both in money and down time of the vehicle. It was a 2007 Altima hybrid. When the battery could not keep the voltage high enough during a cold winter morning start, the spark was too weak, sparkplugs got wet with fuel, that loaded down the coils, one failed. It has an uncommon 12 Volt size AGM battery. It took several days to get. When put it, it would not start. Got an appointment at a dealer and had it towed there. Backing it up ramp at dealer lot entrance, tow truck driver kept front of it too high and caught exhaust and destroyed tailpipe and muffler destroying both. Only one mechanic at dealer who's qualified to work on hybrids, and he's booked up, so had to wait a week for him to find and fix bad ignition coil. Then had to wait for dealer to fix exhaust and tow company pay for it.
All in all, battery + $400.00 to diagnose and fix bad coil. AAA for tow. Tow company paid for exhaust, but getting it fixed added more days to down time. Vehicle was not available for 2 weeks while this all plaid out. And all because someone wanted to save a few dollars by not replacing a battery that tested bad but still started the vehicle, just to squeeze two more months use out of it before buying a new one.
Yous pays your money, yous make your choice.
I place high value on reliabality. So, test and replace when indicated.
BTW, one 51R flooded 12 volt wet battery that was rated for 500 CCA for a 2018 CRV, tested 508 CCA when it was exactly 60 months old on a cool day. It failed as a short two weeks later. It was in a 2018 CRV so 500 CCA was plenty enough. But when it failed as a short, even a charged up 1,000 Amp NOCO jump pack properly connected could not start it while that internal shorted failed battery was still connected. That NOCO was only one year old and it was charged up. At least that jump pack was smart enough to not cause the battery to explode.
^ This is why I now draw the line at 1.1 X Rated CCA. if it's below that, it gets replaced.
Some vehicles have batteries in hidden away locations with jump post under the hood someplace. You can not get any accurate reading with these modern battery testers at those jump post. Theres too much wire between them and the battery.
These testers use changes of battery voltage at more than one loading of the battery to accurately calculate the internal resistance of the battery. This is in milli-Ohms. That thousanths of Ohms. Such as if it says 3.2 milli-Ohms, that is 3.2 / 1000 of an Ohm.
The wire between a battery and remote jump points adds enough additiinnal resistance to the circuit that theres no way these testers can read a battery from those locations.
These testers work great if used at the battery post or on the connections at the battery if the connections are clean and snug.
Just dont even try to use them on remote jump locations.
I like my tester, and use it often. It caught a few batteries ready to fail and saved friends and family from no-starts.
One family member decided to not listen, and did not replace their battery when I told them to. When it failed a few months later, it unfortunately started a domino effect that cost a heck of a lot both in money and down time of the vehicle. It was a 2007 Altima hybrid. When the battery could not keep the voltage high enough during a cold winter morning start, the spark was too weak, sparkplugs got wet with fuel, that loaded down the coils, one failed. It has an uncommon 12 Volt size AGM battery. It took several days to get. When put it, it would not start. Got an appointment at a dealer and had it towed there. Backing it up ramp at dealer lot entrance, tow truck driver kept front of it too high and caught exhaust and destroyed tailpipe and muffler destroying both. Only one mechanic at dealer who's qualified to work on hybrids, and he's booked up, so had to wait a week for him to find and fix bad ignition coil. Then had to wait for dealer to fix exhaust and tow company pay for it.
All in all, battery + $400.00 to diagnose and fix bad coil. AAA for tow. Tow company paid for exhaust, but getting it fixed added more days to down time. Vehicle was not available for 2 weeks while this all plaid out. And all because someone wanted to save a few dollars by not replacing a battery that tested bad but still started the vehicle, just to squeeze two more months use out of it before buying a new one.
Yous pays your money, yous make your choice.
I place high value on reliabality. So, test and replace when indicated.
BTW, one 51R flooded 12 volt wet battery that was rated for 500 CCA for a 2018 CRV, tested 508 CCA when it was exactly 60 months old on a cool day. It failed as a short two weeks later. It was in a 2018 CRV so 500 CCA was plenty enough. But when it failed as a short, even a charged up 1,000 Amp NOCO jump pack properly connected could not start it while that internal shorted failed battery was still connected. That NOCO was only one year old and it was charged up. At least that jump pack was smart enough to not cause the battery to explode.
^ This is why I now draw the line at 1.1 X Rated CCA. if it's below that, it gets replaced.
f355spider
$50 Site Donor 2025
The problem with a five year or six year battery replacement strategy, is you can still be left stranded with a weak battery. A battery tester is the best investment I made over 15 years ago, a Schumacher digital tester. A couple years ago I bought an Ancel BA101 as well.
I check at each oil change or every 6 months, which ever occurs first. I have had one battery last over 14 years, I just tested it regularly. At the first sign it was testing lower (still started fine) I replace it. Batteries can start to go south, long before you notice from starting the car. With a tester, I can confidently let a battery go much longer without anxiety it will fail unexpectedly. Can a battery still catastrophically fail without warning? Sure, but that sort of failure has never happened to me...its always been the more gradual death, and now I can catch it early. I have several batteries that are 6 to 7+ years old and all are testing fine currently.
I helped a couple friends that had batteries testing poorly, yet the cars still started fine and they would never have known they were at risk of being stranded in a "no start" situation.
I check at each oil change or every 6 months, which ever occurs first. I have had one battery last over 14 years, I just tested it regularly. At the first sign it was testing lower (still started fine) I replace it. Batteries can start to go south, long before you notice from starting the car. With a tester, I can confidently let a battery go much longer without anxiety it will fail unexpectedly. Can a battery still catastrophically fail without warning? Sure, but that sort of failure has never happened to me...its always been the more gradual death, and now I can catch it early. I have several batteries that are 6 to 7+ years old and all are testing fine currently.
I helped a couple friends that had batteries testing poorly, yet the cars still started fine and they would never have known they were at risk of being stranded in a "no start" situation.
I have a BatteryMinder that I move around on my different batteries. I also have a tester so I can see where my CCA is compared to CCA battery rating and if tester says to replace or good.
I recently bought a new multipurpose adapter to put in a power outlet for charging phones. I bought one that displays the voltage. I have been plugging that in the power outlet before I try to start so I can actually see a voltage drop. My truck does have a slightly bigger voltage drop than my car or my suv. My thought is if I think I heard a slow start I should also see a bigger voltage drop when cranking. Just got the adapter so maybe its just the novelty of it being new and different
I recently bought a new multipurpose adapter to put in a power outlet for charging phones. I bought one that displays the voltage. I have been plugging that in the power outlet before I try to start so I can actually see a voltage drop. My truck does have a slightly bigger voltage drop than my car or my suv. My thought is if I think I heard a slow start I should also see a bigger voltage drop when cranking. Just got the adapter so maybe its just the novelty of it being new and different
Patman
Staff member
I’m still on the original battery in my 2016 Civic and my 2018 Corvette so I don’t subscribe to the five year rule at all. I don’t think I have ever replaced a battery that early actually. I usually get 7-9 years out of my car batteries
f355spider
$50 Site Donor 2025
I have a Bluetooth battery monitor on my Ferrari, only because getting to the battery behind the passenger foot well is a pain. With the Bluetooth monitor, (left connected to the battery terminals) one of its function is to test the cranking voltage every time I start the car.(you read the info using a free app) I think it states anything below maybe 10.5 volts is a concern. If that ever happens, I will actually get to the battery and put my Ancel BA101 on it. For the past three years, the Interstate AGM always shows at least 11.4vt or so on cranking. Only $15 on fleabay,
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