I don't get these start/stop lubes.. haven't cars been starting and stopping since their inception? I've been starting/stopping for years on plain old Chevron Supreme. What's next, Castrol "Idling" oil or Pennzoil "Running Errands" oil? I understand it's just marketing but you really have to wonder how much of a shmuck do they take the avg consumer for.
Castrol Start / Stop 5W-30
- Thread starter kstanf150
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- Status
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
I don't get these start/stop lubes.. haven't cars been starting and stopping since their inception? I've been starting/stopping for years on plain old Chevron Supreme. What's next, Castrol "Idling" oil or Pennzoil "Running Errands" oil? I understand it's just marketing but you really have to wonder how much of a shmuck do they take the avg consumer for.
LOL I agree, it appears they really think the average consumer is a schmuck, or they wouldn't be rolling out all these new useless offerings. LOL
I don't get these start/stop lubes.. haven't cars been starting and stopping since their inception? I've been starting/stopping for years on plain old Chevron Supreme. What's next, Castrol "Idling" oil or Pennzoil "Running Errands" oil? I understand it's just marketing but you really have to wonder how much of a shmuck do they take the avg consumer for.
LOL I agree, it appears they really think the average consumer is a schmuck, or they wouldn't be rolling out all these new useless offerings. LOL
Looks like this oil does come from Australia.
https://www.autobarn.com.au/mag-stop-start-5w30
But I can't find it on the Australian Castrol web site, however there are two very similar products
MAGNATEC Professional C3 5W-30 and MAGNATEC SUV 5W-30 C3.
Both are spec'd
ACEA C3
API SN/CF
GM dexos2
MB-Approval 229.31/ 229.51
Both very similar data
KV40 = 72 cSt
KV100 = 12.2 cSt
VI = 166
SA = 0.8 %
PP = -39 c
FP = 207 c
I would say this is an AutoBarn special based on one of the above oils, probably the SUV Magnatec which is now commonly sold in 7L jugs, but this special bottling is in the regular 5L jug.
Many of the big auto-retailers in Australia, Repco / Supercheap Auto / AutoBarn, get special bottling of standard products for themselves. I've seen it with Valvoline and Penrite before.
https://www.autobarn.com.au/mag-stop-start-5w30
But I can't find it on the Australian Castrol web site, however there are two very similar products
MAGNATEC Professional C3 5W-30 and MAGNATEC SUV 5W-30 C3.
Both are spec'd
ACEA C3
API SN/CF
GM dexos2
MB-Approval 229.31/ 229.51
Both very similar data
KV40 = 72 cSt
KV100 = 12.2 cSt
VI = 166
SA = 0.8 %
PP = -39 c
FP = 207 c
I would say this is an AutoBarn special based on one of the above oils, probably the SUV Magnatec which is now commonly sold in 7L jugs, but this special bottling is in the regular 5L jug.
Many of the big auto-retailers in Australia, Repco / Supercheap Auto / AutoBarn, get special bottling of standard products for themselves. I've seen it with Valvoline and Penrite before.
Originally Posted by NH73
Originally Posted by SR5
OP,
That looks like the containers we get here, but it's not one of ours. In Australia the full synthetic Castrol Magnatecs are:
Magnatec "Stop-Start" 5W30 (API SN/CF, ACEA A3/B4)
Magnatec "Fuel-Saver DX" 5W30 (API SN-Plus, ILSAC GF-5, Dexos1-Gen2)
Magnatec "Diesel DX" 5W40 (API SN/CF, ACEA C3, Dexos2)
Magnatec "SUV" 5W30 ( API SN/CF, ACEA C3, MB 229.51 and Dexos2 )
Magnatec 5W40 (API SN/CF, ACEA A3/B4)
Magnatec 0W20 (API SN, ILSAC GF-5)
Magnatec 5W30 A5 (SN & GF-4, ACEA A5/B5, Ford WSS-M2C913-D)
Plus some semi-synthetic ones 10W30, 10W40 and 15W40 all those rated SN/CF & A3/B4.
To me, it looks like each one is geared towards different vehicle requirements, just adds confusion to the uneducated consumer over marketing bs. If I were to send my wife in to buy oil for my RAV4, she could likely pick up something like fuel saver dx rather than the required 0w20 with no marketing bs.
Sure, but as I've posted in a few other threads recently, Toyota say I can use 0W16, 0W20, 5W20, 5W30, 10W30 or 15W40 in their modern VVT-I Hybrid Camry, and it just needs to be rated API SN. I'm sure your Rav4 in Australia would be much the same.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4890579/1
Which means 7 of the 10 oils above are suitable, and in reality all are suitable if you accept the fact that allowing 5W30 and 10W30 and 15W40 also implies that 5W40 and 10W40 SN oils are also acceptable.
BTW when my wife sends me to the shop to buy some weird food or cosmetics, I just take a photo of the old container with my phone. It's not that hard mate.
Originally Posted by SR5
OP,
That looks like the containers we get here, but it's not one of ours. In Australia the full synthetic Castrol Magnatecs are:
Magnatec "Stop-Start" 5W30 (API SN/CF, ACEA A3/B4)
Magnatec "Fuel-Saver DX" 5W30 (API SN-Plus, ILSAC GF-5, Dexos1-Gen2)
Magnatec "Diesel DX" 5W40 (API SN/CF, ACEA C3, Dexos2)
Magnatec "SUV" 5W30 ( API SN/CF, ACEA C3, MB 229.51 and Dexos2 )
Magnatec 5W40 (API SN/CF, ACEA A3/B4)
Magnatec 0W20 (API SN, ILSAC GF-5)
Magnatec 5W30 A5 (SN & GF-4, ACEA A5/B5, Ford WSS-M2C913-D)
Plus some semi-synthetic ones 10W30, 10W40 and 15W40 all those rated SN/CF & A3/B4.
To me, it looks like each one is geared towards different vehicle requirements, just adds confusion to the uneducated consumer over marketing bs. If I were to send my wife in to buy oil for my RAV4, she could likely pick up something like fuel saver dx rather than the required 0w20 with no marketing bs.
Sure, but as I've posted in a few other threads recently, Toyota say I can use 0W16, 0W20, 5W20, 5W30, 10W30 or 15W40 in their modern VVT-I Hybrid Camry, and it just needs to be rated API SN. I'm sure your Rav4 in Australia would be much the same.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4890579/1
Which means 7 of the 10 oils above are suitable, and in reality all are suitable if you accept the fact that allowing 5W30 and 10W30 and 15W40 also implies that 5W40 and 10W40 SN oils are also acceptable.
BTW when my wife sends me to the shop to buy some weird food or cosmetics, I just take a photo of the old container with my phone. It's not that hard mate.
Last edited:
Originally Posted by SR5
Looks like this oil does come from Australia.
https://www.autobarn.com.au/mag-stop-start-5w30
But I can't find it on the Australian Castrol web site, however there are two very similar products
MAGNATEC Professional C3 5W-30 and MAGNATEC SUV 5W-30 C3.
Both are spec'd
ACEA C3
API SN/CF
GM dexos2
MB-Approval 229.31/ 229.51
Both very similar data
KV40 = 72 cSt
KV100 = 12.2 cSt
VI = 166
SA = 0.8 %
PP = -39 c
FP = 207 c
I would say this is an AutoBarn special based on one of the above oils, probably the SUV Magnatec which is now commonly sold in 7L jugs, but this special bottling is in the regular 5L jug.
Many of the big auto-retailers in Australia, Repco / Supercheap Auto / AutoBarn, get special bottling of standard products for themselves. I've seen it with Valvoline and Penrite before.
^^^^^^^
See... I knew this was not in the US...
We have the GTX Magnatec version...
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/12/full-68725-39607-f3fe974d_5369_4fa2_b544_f77fca1aec78_1.8e3a4124991a75e3cd8d82da8ed3d3b2.jpeg "[Linked Image]")
Looks like this oil does come from Australia.
https://www.autobarn.com.au/mag-stop-start-5w30
But I can't find it on the Australian Castrol web site, however there are two very similar products
MAGNATEC Professional C3 5W-30 and MAGNATEC SUV 5W-30 C3.
Both are spec'd
ACEA C3
API SN/CF
GM dexos2
MB-Approval 229.31/ 229.51
Both very similar data
KV40 = 72 cSt
KV100 = 12.2 cSt
VI = 166
SA = 0.8 %
PP = -39 c
FP = 207 c
I would say this is an AutoBarn special based on one of the above oils, probably the SUV Magnatec which is now commonly sold in 7L jugs, but this special bottling is in the regular 5L jug.
Many of the big auto-retailers in Australia, Repco / Supercheap Auto / AutoBarn, get special bottling of standard products for themselves. I've seen it with Valvoline and Penrite before.
^^^^^^^
See... I knew this was not in the US...
We have the GTX Magnatec version...
Originally Posted by demarpaint
LOL I agree, it appears they really think the average consumer is a schmuck, or they wouldn't be rolling out all these new useless offerings. LOL
Right...but ya know what.. don't be surprised if one of these products actually enjoys some success. I think the "Start-Stop" is brilliant from a marketing standpoint. I think that one will push buttons for a lot of people that don't obsess over oil like we do.
LOL I agree, it appears they really think the average consumer is a schmuck, or they wouldn't be rolling out all these new useless offerings. LOL
Right...but ya know what.. don't be surprised if one of these products actually enjoys some success. I think the "Start-Stop" is brilliant from a marketing standpoint. I think that one will push buttons for a lot of people that don't obsess over oil like we do.
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Originally Posted by demarpaint
LOL I agree, it appears they really think the average consumer is a schmuck, or they wouldn't be rolling out all these new useless offerings. LOL
Right...but ya know what.. don't be surprised if one of these products actually enjoys some success. I think the "Start-Stop" is brilliant from a marketing standpoint. I think that one will push buttons for a lot of people that don't obsess over oil like we do.
You're probably right, but if one of them finds success, it most likely will be at the expense of another. So come the end of 2020 there will more than likely still be some nice oil closeout deals, maybe on something us savvy Bitogers didn't think.
Originally Posted by demarpaint
LOL I agree, it appears they really think the average consumer is a schmuck, or they wouldn't be rolling out all these new useless offerings. LOL
Right...but ya know what.. don't be surprised if one of these products actually enjoys some success. I think the "Start-Stop" is brilliant from a marketing standpoint. I think that one will push buttons for a lot of people that don't obsess over oil like we do.
You're probably right, but if one of them finds success, it most likely will be at the expense of another. So come the end of 2020 there will more than likely still be some nice oil closeout deals, maybe on something us savvy Bitogers didn't think.
![[Linked Image from vignette2.wikia.nocookie.net]](https://vignette2.wikia.nocookie.net/simpsons/images/4/45/Duff_lite_%26_dry.png "[Linked Image from vignette2.wikia.nocookie.net]")
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
I don't get these start/stop lubes.. haven't cars been starting and stopping since their inception? I've been starting/stopping for years on plain old Chevron Supreme. What's next, Castrol "Idling" oil or Pennzoil "Running Errands" oil? I understand it's just marketing but you really have to wonder how much of a shmuck do they take the avg consumer for.
Unless I disengage/disable the dash button, my Hyundai and Kia Start-Stop literally stop the engine a dozen times, enroute to work which is under 10 miles one-way.
Medium-level stop & go traffic is incorporated into any major city in the USA these days. Does this mean my vehicles needs Stop & Start oils?....... absolutely not, unless I plan on keeping that start-stop feature activated 24/7, for more than a decade in medium city-only-type traffic.
If your vehicle doesn't seek freeway or highway driving and you're keeping the increasingly fuel-diluted oil & vehicle for almost forever , then perhaps start-stop oil should be recommended. Otherwise No.
I don't get these start/stop lubes.. haven't cars been starting and stopping since their inception? I've been starting/stopping for years on plain old Chevron Supreme. What's next, Castrol "Idling" oil or Pennzoil "Running Errands" oil? I understand it's just marketing but you really have to wonder how much of a shmuck do they take the avg consumer for.
Unless I disengage/disable the dash button, my Hyundai and Kia Start-Stop literally stop the engine a dozen times, enroute to work which is under 10 miles one-way.
Medium-level stop & go traffic is incorporated into any major city in the USA these days. Does this mean my vehicles needs Stop & Start oils?....... absolutely not, unless I plan on keeping that start-stop feature activated 24/7, for more than a decade in medium city-only-type traffic.
If your vehicle doesn't seek freeway or highway driving and you're keeping the increasingly fuel-diluted oil & vehicle for almost forever , then perhaps start-stop oil should be recommended. Otherwise No.
Last edited:
Originally Posted by SR5
Originally Posted by NH73
Originally Posted by SR5
OP,
That looks like the containers we get here, but it's not one of ours. In Australia the full synthetic Castrol Magnatecs are:
Magnatec "Stop-Start" 5W30 (API SN/CF, ACEA A3/B4)
Magnatec "Fuel-Saver DX" 5W30 (API SN-Plus, ILSAC GF-5, Dexos1-Gen2)
Magnatec "Diesel DX" 5W40 (API SN/CF, ACEA C3, Dexos2)
Magnatec "SUV" 5W30 ( API SN/CF, ACEA C3, MB 229.51 and Dexos2 )
Magnatec 5W40 (API SN/CF, ACEA A3/B4)
Magnatec 0W20 (API SN, ILSAC GF-5)
Magnatec 5W30 A5 (SN & GF-4, ACEA A5/B5, Ford WSS-M2C913-D)
Plus some semi-synthetic ones 10W30, 10W40 and 15W40 all those rated SN/CF & A3/B4.
To me, it looks like each one is geared towards different vehicle requirements, just adds confusion to the uneducated consumer over marketing bs. If I were to send my wife in to buy oil for my RAV4, she could likely pick up something like fuel saver dx rather than the required 0w20 with no marketing bs.
Sure, but as I've posted in a few other threads recently, Toyota say I can use 0W16, 0W20, 5W20, 5W30, 10W30 or 15W40 in their modern VVT-I Hybrid Camry, and it just needs to be rated API SN. I'm sure your Rav4 in Australia would be much the same.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4890579/1
Which means 7 of the 10 oils above are suitable, and in reality all are suitable if you accept the fact that allowing 5W30 and 10W30 and 15W40 also implies that 5W40 and 10W40 SN oils are also acceptable.
BTW when my wife sends me to the shop to buy some weird food or cosmetics, I just take a photo of the old container with my phone. It's not that hard mate.
T
That is not my point. There are many people that really don't know which oil to get.
Originally Posted by NH73
Originally Posted by SR5
OP,
That looks like the containers we get here, but it's not one of ours. In Australia the full synthetic Castrol Magnatecs are:
Magnatec "Stop-Start" 5W30 (API SN/CF, ACEA A3/B4)
Magnatec "Fuel-Saver DX" 5W30 (API SN-Plus, ILSAC GF-5, Dexos1-Gen2)
Magnatec "Diesel DX" 5W40 (API SN/CF, ACEA C3, Dexos2)
Magnatec "SUV" 5W30 ( API SN/CF, ACEA C3, MB 229.51 and Dexos2 )
Magnatec 5W40 (API SN/CF, ACEA A3/B4)
Magnatec 0W20 (API SN, ILSAC GF-5)
Magnatec 5W30 A5 (SN & GF-4, ACEA A5/B5, Ford WSS-M2C913-D)
Plus some semi-synthetic ones 10W30, 10W40 and 15W40 all those rated SN/CF & A3/B4.
To me, it looks like each one is geared towards different vehicle requirements, just adds confusion to the uneducated consumer over marketing bs. If I were to send my wife in to buy oil for my RAV4, she could likely pick up something like fuel saver dx rather than the required 0w20 with no marketing bs.
Sure, but as I've posted in a few other threads recently, Toyota say I can use 0W16, 0W20, 5W20, 5W30, 10W30 or 15W40 in their modern VVT-I Hybrid Camry, and it just needs to be rated API SN. I'm sure your Rav4 in Australia would be much the same.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4890579/1
Which means 7 of the 10 oils above are suitable, and in reality all are suitable if you accept the fact that allowing 5W30 and 10W30 and 15W40 also implies that 5W40 and 10W40 SN oils are also acceptable.
BTW when my wife sends me to the shop to buy some weird food or cosmetics, I just take a photo of the old container with my phone. It's not that hard mate.
T
That is not my point. There are many people that really don't know which oil to get.
I get that, but I like having the choice, that's more my point.
If my car call for a 5W30 SN oil, then I can get a thin one by going SN & GF-5, or I can get a thick one by going SN & C3, or I can get a thick and high TBN one by going SN & A3/B4 or I can get a thin one with higher ZDDP by go SN & A5/B5 & Ford 913-D. The various specs that bring different things to the party is the whole point.
If you are not sure just put your car in one of the online lube guides
http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/valv_auMS/
All the auto-stores in Australia have computer tablets sitting in front of the oil section set up for this
If my car call for a 5W30 SN oil, then I can get a thin one by going SN & GF-5, or I can get a thick one by going SN & C3, or I can get a thick and high TBN one by going SN & A3/B4 or I can get a thin one with higher ZDDP by go SN & A5/B5 & Ford 913-D. The various specs that bring different things to the party is the whole point.
If you are not sure just put your car in one of the online lube guides
http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/valv_auMS/
All the auto-stores in Australia have computer tablets sitting in front of the oil section set up for this
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
I wouldn't know which jug description to grab for my new Korean models.
First thing I do after starting my engine with remote and letting it run for five minutes unattended, is to disable the default electronic Start-Stop Mode, immediately upon sitting down in the drivers seat. Next thing I switch is the default air circulation button, that brings outside air-in during the winter. Then I put the vehicle in Drive and proceed to my destination.
First thing I do after starting my engine with remote and letting it run for five minutes unattended, is to disable the default electronic Start-Stop Mode, immediately upon sitting down in the drivers seat. Next thing I switch is the default air circulation button, that brings outside air-in during the winter. Then I put the vehicle in Drive and proceed to my destination.
Last edited:
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
I wouldn't know which jug description to grab for my new Korean models..
I was just reading a PDS for one of the Magnatec's and it said "Castrol MAGNATEC Professional C3 5W-30 is exclusively recommended by KIA Australia for use in KIA vehicles."
Looks like Kia Australia want a 5w30 API SN & ACEA C3 oil. Sort of makes sense, high-HTHS to resist fuel dilution and mid-SAPS to possibly resist intake valve contamination. It's full specs are: ACEA C3
API SN/CF, Dexos2, MB-Approval 229.31/ 229.51, Renault RN 0700 / RN 0710.
The MB spec means the Noack volatility is below 10%, better than the standard Dexos1-Gen2 13%, or the API 15%.
That is the one I would use in your Korean car.
I like choice between various specs, it gives you options. To me the exact same spec, but from different manufacturers gives me less options. I only need 2 or 3 good Dexos1-Gen2 oils, beyond that more and more different labels from different manufacturers on effectively the same oil doesn't help me very much.
I wouldn't know which jug description to grab for my new Korean models..
I was just reading a PDS for one of the Magnatec's and it said "Castrol MAGNATEC Professional C3 5W-30 is exclusively recommended by KIA Australia for use in KIA vehicles."
Looks like Kia Australia want a 5w30 API SN & ACEA C3 oil. Sort of makes sense, high-HTHS to resist fuel dilution and mid-SAPS to possibly resist intake valve contamination. It's full specs are: ACEA C3
API SN/CF, Dexos2, MB-Approval 229.31/ 229.51, Renault RN 0700 / RN 0710.
The MB spec means the Noack volatility is below 10%, better than the standard Dexos1-Gen2 13%, or the API 15%.
That is the one I would use in your Korean car.
I like choice between various specs, it gives you options. To me the exact same spec, but from different manufacturers gives me less options. I only need 2 or 3 good Dexos1-Gen2 oils, beyond that more and more different labels from different manufacturers on effectively the same oil doesn't help me very much.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
SR5
The cold weather here for 4-5 months (long idle warmups), plus heavy congested stop & go traffic here, cannot draw comparisons to Australia, where you currently see 110 degrees, different fuels, lighter traffic..... kangaroos instead of pitbulls running around......etc.
Happy New Year to you.
The cold weather here for 4-5 months (long idle warmups), plus heavy congested stop & go traffic here, cannot draw comparisons to Australia, where you currently see 110 degrees, different fuels, lighter traffic..... kangaroos instead of pitbulls running around......etc.
Happy New Year to you.
Actually... If you read what was stated... A oil like Castrol Professional c3 5w30 makes a lot of sense anywhere practically in the world... Higher HTHS to combat dilution from gas... Lower volatility less than 10 percent to deal with not forming deposits etc etc..
That oil works in just about anywhere people normally live outside of the extremely coldest arctic regions where a 0w would be needed..
That oil works in just about anywhere people normally live outside of the extremely coldest arctic regions where a 0w would be needed..
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
Originally Posted by bbhero
Actually... If you read what was stated... A oil like Castrol Professional c3 5w30 makes a lot of sense anywhere practically in the world... Higher HTHS to combat dilution from gas... Lower volatility less than 10 percent to deal with not forming deposits etc etc..
That oil works in just about anywhere people normally live outside of the extremely coldest arctic regions where a 0w would be needed..
If that SN Castrol Professional is the ticket for America's driving habits, then why are we not using the higher Calcium / lower Magnesium brew here for TDGIs / GDIs?
Why are all the major oil jug producers pushing Much Lower Calcium / Much Higher Magnesium SN Plus / Dexos 1 Gen 2 and volatility above 12/13?
This amateur oil aficionado, will be all ears and eyes, for this thread's remainder. I need to know what to buy next.
Actually... If you read what was stated... A oil like Castrol Professional c3 5w30 makes a lot of sense anywhere practically in the world... Higher HTHS to combat dilution from gas... Lower volatility less than 10 percent to deal with not forming deposits etc etc..
That oil works in just about anywhere people normally live outside of the extremely coldest arctic regions where a 0w would be needed..
If that SN Castrol Professional is the ticket for America's driving habits, then why are we not using the higher Calcium / lower Magnesium brew here for TDGIs / GDIs?
Why are all the major oil jug producers pushing Much Lower Calcium / Much Higher Magnesium SN Plus / Dexos 1 Gen 2 and volatility above 12/13?
This amateur oil aficionado, will be all ears and eyes, for this thread's remainder. I need to know what to buy next.
Last edited:
How do you know it's Ca to Mg ratio ? All we know is that it's SA = 0.8% and that Kia recommend it with an up to date PDS of May 2019.
Still if I want an SN-Plus / D1G2 oil instead then I just buy it as it's sitting on the shelf right bedside the SN / C3 / Dexos2 oil. I have options and I like options. Something to do with freedom of choice.
Still if I want an SN-Plus / D1G2 oil instead then I just buy it as it's sitting on the shelf right bedside the SN / C3 / Dexos2 oil. I have options and I like options. Something to do with freedom of choice.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
SR5
That C3 / SN Dexos2 oil has higher calcium and lower magnesium.
Sometimes our freedom of choice, is not what's best for our engine.
Buy whatever you like sir. I use the most updated spec.... SN Plus, along with optional Dexos 1 / Gen2, despite the SN recommendation in my 1+ year-old owners manual.... which is currently now an outdated spec that's almost in disappear mode here in Southeast Michigan.
Enjoy whatever you're using now and in the future.
That C3 / SN Dexos2 oil has higher calcium and lower magnesium.
Sometimes our freedom of choice, is not what's best for our engine.
Buy whatever you like sir. I use the most updated spec.... SN Plus, along with optional Dexos 1 / Gen2, despite the SN recommendation in my 1+ year-old owners manual.... which is currently now an outdated spec that's almost in disappear mode here in Southeast Michigan.
Enjoy whatever you're using now and in the future.
Last edited:
Hey T7,
Don't worry I'm just chatting as I enjoy talking oils.
Anyway the other oil I enjoy here is a Ford 913-D oil, Magnatec make one but I prefer the Valvoline SynPower "FE" version. It's a 5W30 that's API SL/CF (High ZDDP), ACEA A5/B5, Ford WSS-M2C913-D, JLR 03.5003.
It starts as a full synthetic 5W30 oil with Euro A5/B5 rating, then Ford add extra requirements on top. First it must be right at the thin end of the 5W30 grade for easy cold starting and fuel efficiency, then it needs its A5/B5 TBN increased from a min of 8 to a min of 10 for long oil change intervals, then it needs extra ZDDP for added wear protection. The extra ZDDP (~1000 ppm) means the oil can't be SN & GF-5 as it's above the Phos limits, hence SL from Valvoline and GF-4 from Castrol.
The interesting thing about low speed pre-ignition (LSPI) in GDTI engines and the research published by Infineum (quotes and reference below), LSPI events increase linearly with Calcium detergent level (hence swapping out a bit of Ca for Magnesium), but are decreased exponentially with increasing ZDDP level.
So in some respects increasing the ZDDP level is a positive way to go, as it does three things:
- powerfully quenches LSPI events
- protects the metal in the engine from wear
- is an antioxidant that protects the oil itself from degrading
Sure, too much Phos from the ZDDP can hurt exhaust cats, but Euro oils (like M1 & Edge 0W40) have been running at this 1000 ppm level for decades in oil burning BMW, MB and Audi's without concern for their cats. BTW I've never heard of LSPI events in Euro cars.
So give my vast choice: SN-Plus & D1G2 or SN & C3 & Dexos2 or SL & A5/B5 & Ford-913-D, all as a full synthetic 5W30. Then I select the 913-D oil thanks very much, and sleep unconcerned about LSPI events.
Quote
A direct relationship was observed between calcium concentration and the average number of LSPI events, confirming calcium as an LSPI promoter.
Quote
The most widely reported LSPI quencher additive type is zinc dialkyl dithiophosphate (ZDDP)....ZDDP has an exponential decrease in LSPI activity - higher levels of ZDDP reduced over 90% of LSPI....These observations open up the debate for increasing the phosphorus maximum levels in the next generation of Industry and OEM lubricant specifications.
Ref:
https://www.infineuminsight.com/en-gb/articles/passenger-cars/quenching-low-speed-pre-ignition/
Don't worry I'm just chatting as I enjoy talking oils.
Anyway the other oil I enjoy here is a Ford 913-D oil, Magnatec make one but I prefer the Valvoline SynPower "FE" version. It's a 5W30 that's API SL/CF (High ZDDP), ACEA A5/B5, Ford WSS-M2C913-D, JLR 03.5003.
It starts as a full synthetic 5W30 oil with Euro A5/B5 rating, then Ford add extra requirements on top. First it must be right at the thin end of the 5W30 grade for easy cold starting and fuel efficiency, then it needs its A5/B5 TBN increased from a min of 8 to a min of 10 for long oil change intervals, then it needs extra ZDDP for added wear protection. The extra ZDDP (~1000 ppm) means the oil can't be SN & GF-5 as it's above the Phos limits, hence SL from Valvoline and GF-4 from Castrol.
The interesting thing about low speed pre-ignition (LSPI) in GDTI engines and the research published by Infineum (quotes and reference below), LSPI events increase linearly with Calcium detergent level (hence swapping out a bit of Ca for Magnesium), but are decreased exponentially with increasing ZDDP level.
So in some respects increasing the ZDDP level is a positive way to go, as it does three things:
- powerfully quenches LSPI events
- protects the metal in the engine from wear
- is an antioxidant that protects the oil itself from degrading
Sure, too much Phos from the ZDDP can hurt exhaust cats, but Euro oils (like M1 & Edge 0W40) have been running at this 1000 ppm level for decades in oil burning BMW, MB and Audi's without concern for their cats. BTW I've never heard of LSPI events in Euro cars.
So give my vast choice: SN-Plus & D1G2 or SN & C3 & Dexos2 or SL & A5/B5 & Ford-913-D, all as a full synthetic 5W30. Then I select the 913-D oil thanks very much, and sleep unconcerned about LSPI events.
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A direct relationship was observed between calcium concentration and the average number of LSPI events, confirming calcium as an LSPI promoter.
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The most widely reported LSPI quencher additive type is zinc dialkyl dithiophosphate (ZDDP)....ZDDP has an exponential decrease in LSPI activity - higher levels of ZDDP reduced over 90% of LSPI....These observations open up the debate for increasing the phosphorus maximum levels in the next generation of Industry and OEM lubricant specifications.
Ref:
https://www.infineuminsight.com/en-gb/articles/passenger-cars/quenching-low-speed-pre-ignition/
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