Cartridge oil filter change video : MAHLE ...
- Thread starter odie
- Start date
- Status
This is an interesting video. Thanks for sharing!
I thought it was especially interesting when he explains the hourglass shape of the filter media.
Ed
I thought it was especially interesting when he explains the hourglass shape of the filter media.
Ed
On my engine, the cartridge filter is much shorter, so you don't notice that hourglass shape effect much. Instead, you see uneven/wavy media, like in the image below (not mine):
Last edited:
Do you think that means the filter is clogged, like the video suggests?On my engine, the cartridge filter is much shorter, so you don't notice that hourglass shape effect much. Instead, you see uneven/wavy media, like in the image below (not mine):
Ed
I'm not too sure on that, honestly. On various German car boards, you'll see people saying that a filter looking like this is quite normal.
On my BMW, I've only started noticing my filters looking like that once the car was no longer garaged and had to deal with a lot of cold winter starts. Maybe it's the higher internal pressure caused by thicker oil during cold weather starts that's causing this? It's either that, or my bypass valve isn't working right.
I change the oil and filter once a year, with about 3-4K miles on it, and it comes out pretty clean, so I doubt there is any filter clogging there - certainly nothing visible to the naked eye.
Last edited:
My thought exactly. I've seen a number of filters cut open by participants here, and a few have shown that twist or collapse. Maybe this phenomenon should be examined further?
Apparently I have been doing it wrong.
He says in the video to do the filter before draining.
I always removed the drain plug, then go up top and do the filter, then put the drain plug back in.
I get why he says what he does, but my way still gets the oil out of the housing and down into the pan to be drained.
He says in the video to do the filter before draining.
I always removed the drain plug, then go up top and do the filter, then put the drain plug back in.
I get why he says what he does, but my way still gets the oil out of the housing and down into the pan to be drained.
I think he's just saying to make sure you unscrew the filter cap to let the oil drain from the filter housing down to the pan BEFORE you put the drain plug back in. Both your way and his way accomplish this.
In my car, even if I remove the filter, there is still some oil sitting in a few areas inside the oil filter housing that will not drain to the pan by itself. Since I do my oil changes using an oil extractor, I just suck that stuff out with a tube.
Here's an older thread on this subject that suggests some alternative reasons...
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/why-is-my-cartridge-filter-getting-crushed.280974/
holy TDIOn my engine, the cartridge filter is much shorter, so you don't notice that hourglass shape effect much. Instead, you see uneven/wavy media, like in the image below (not mine):
On my engine, the cartridge filter is much shorter, so you don't notice that hourglass shape effect much. Instead, you see uneven/wavy media, like in the image below (not mine):
Maybe it's a thought to remove the filter halway through the oci and see if it has already developped the crushed look? If not, it's likely from saturation and not from swelling
That's why in this type of filter design I only use a full syn. wire back media filter because you don't get that crushing effect.
Only have 1 vehicle that uses a cartridge filter, so my experience is limited, but the Ecotec in our Cruze hasn't had twisted or wavy pleats. Makes me wonder if the overall length of some filters might be a little longer causing crushing or twisting of the media when the cap is screwed down tight.
I mainly use the ACDelco Hengst OE filter or a Fram extra guard or Ultra. The only one that hasn’t come out distorted was the Ultra.
The factory installed filter on the 2.2 Ecotecs often came out distorted.
- Status
