Carquest 85334 C&P

[shepherm]

2015 Hyundai Sonata 2.4 with 20k miles on the replacement engine. Oil had 3,200 miles and the filter had 6,200 miles.

Oil in and out: Mobil 1 ESP 5w30
Filter off and on: Carquest premium 85334

This is the first time I’ve had this issue, but it looks like the filter was leaking some oil around the gasket. I’ve had this car for 164,000 miles and this is the first time I’ve had this issue. It almost looks like the silicone gasket wasn’t think enough in that area. Anyone seen this issue with these filters?

 

[shepherm]

More pictures

 

[Hootbro]

Hard to tell if that was leaking past the gasket or at the roll crimp seam?

 

[ZeeOSix]

When you removed the filter did you notice a bunch of oil in the grove the arrow is point to? What's the orientation of the filter when mounted? It's also possible that the crimp seam is leaking instead of the P-gasket.

 

[EvoMan]

That filter has a molded gasket, also sometimes called a P-type gasket. The installation method is different than a regular “laser cut” gasket. With a molded gasket, you tighten it down until the oil filter housing appears to be touching the oil filter mating surface.

https://napa-filters.com/storage/resources/resource1/NAPA_P-Style_Gasket_Bulletin.pdf

 

[ZeeOSix]

^^^ Also refereed to as a "torque stop" design because they are torqued until the can hits the filter seat and stops.

 

[shepherm]

When you removed the filter did you notice a bunch of oil in the grove the arrow is point to? What's the orientation of the filter when mounted? It's also possible that the crimp seam is leaking instead of the P-gasket.

View attachment 289042

Really hard to tell, when I removed the filter oil pours out over that area.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Really hard to tell, when I removed the filter oil pours out over that area.

Yeah, that would make it hard to tell. What was the orientation of the filter when mounted? Was there more oil & dirt on one side?

 

[shepherm]

That filter has a molded gasket, also sometimes called a P-type gasket. The installation method is different than a regular “laser cut” gasket. With a molded gasket, you tighten it down until the oil filter housing appears to be touching the oil filter mating surface.

https://napa-filters.com/storage/resources/resource1/NAPA_P-Style_Gasket_Bulletin.pdf

I hadn’t seen that. However there is no way it wasn’t tight. I installed it the same way I’ve installed all the previous premium guard filters. Seat them and tighten them down tight by hand. Not that I have a super grip but it takes a decent filter wrench to get them off. I actually wondered if I overnighted it, but it doesn’t seem like that is likely.

 

[shepherm]

Yeah, that would make it hard to tell. What was the orientation of the filter when mounted? Was there more oil & dirt on one side?

Yes, just that one area, maybe 1/4 of the filter. I honestly didn’t notice it until I went to cut it open, so I’m not sure what direction it was on the engine… I know the bottom of the filter was clean, because I looked up at the filter before removing it.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Yes, just that one area, maybe 1/4 of the filter. I honestly didn’t notice it until I went to cut it open, so I’m not sure what direction it was on the engine… I know the bottom of the filter was clean, because I looked up at the filter before removing it.

Is the filter mounted vertical? Base up? Or how?

 

[shepherm]

Yes, straight up. It’s kinda shielded so that’s why I didn’t see the dirty side.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Yes, straight up. It’s kinda shielded so that’s why I didn’t see the dirty side.

If it's mounted vertical with the base up, and was only dirty on 1/4 of the side, then I'd suspect the crimp seam around the base in that area. If it was the gasket, that groove I pointed to earlier would fill up with oil and most likely leak around the entire outside (or at least more than 1/4 of the circumference) of the can instead of in just one area.

 

[53' Stude]

More pictures

View attachment 289023

View attachment 289024

View attachment 289025

View attachment 289026

Looks good. What went in and on?

 

[shepherm]

Looks good. What went in and on?

Same stuff. Mobil 1 ESP 5w30 and Carquest premium filter.

 

[Impatient]

Lazurus bump:

Short version: over-tightening might be the cause of your leaks. Tighten basically like you would a traditional square-section gasket: smear oil on the gasket, then 3/4 turn past initial contact of the gasket with the filter holder.

Long version: I’ve owned Subarus for 15 yrs, done 90% of oil changes myself. The OEM (Fram-made) blue filters for my older EJ25’s all had the P-shaped gasket, just like this Carquest (and by the way, recent Carquest 84712 for the EJ). The blue ones all said tighten basically just like the square section gaskets: tighten til gasket contacts (initial light contact with the filter holder)…then 3/4 turn past that. In other words, from the moment the gasket first touches the holder, you then tighten an extra 3/4 turn. Now, I will give myself an out on this. I’ve changed the oil only once on my “newest” Subaru (with the H6 motor); but that was with a Fram Endurance filter which had the more-traditional square gasket, but I now have a “stash” of filters for it: genuine Tokyo Roki and the Carquest 85334 ( which Advance Auto says is correct for 2013 OB with 3.6 H6 motor). The stash are all P-gasket filters. No instructions on the Carquest box or can. But, the Tokyo Roki’s say the same thing as all the original blue cans (Fram-made, for my older EJ25 turbo…with the P- gasket): initial contact, then 3/4 turn. There is also a torque reading suggestion on the Tokyo Roki’s: 1.2-1.6 kg-m…whatever that is in NM or Ft-lbs. I have no idea if that 3/4 turn causes metal-to-metal contact as y’all are suggesting, nor do I know if things are different in the Hyundai Kia world. I’m only here because I was interested in the C&P for this “new to me” 85334…which, again, Advance says is the correct filter for my Subaru H6. As with square-section gaskets, I personally don’t think the contact is metal-to-metal. That’s my opinion, I could be wrong.

 

[ZeeOSix]

As with square-section gaskets, I personally don’t think the contact is metal-to-metal. That’s my opinion, I could be wrong.

I've never had a filter with a square cut gasket ever have the can bottoms out on the seat. But I only go 3/4 to 7/8 turn from gasket initial contact. The air gap between the filter seat and can was still about 1 mm.

 

[Impatient]

I've never had a filter with a square cut gasket ever have the can bottoms out on the seat. But I only go 3/4 to 7/8 turn from gasket initial contact. The air gap between the filter seat and can was still about 1 mm.

Right! And while I wasn’t really looking for it, I don’t think any of my p-gaskets bottomed out either (with 3/4-7/8 spin after initial contact)…and I don’t recall leaking either.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Right! And while I wasn’t really looking for it, I don’t think any of my p-gaskets bottomed out either (with 3/4-7/8 spin after initial contact)…and I don’t recall leaking either.

I use to use Toyota OEM filters with the P-gasket on my V6 Tacoma. If they were torqued to the spec on the can the filter would bottom out on the seat, and leave a mark in the aluminum. I don't use them anymore and went with other filters with a flat square cut gasket, and no more filter seat gouging.

 

[Reloader59]

With the P-style gaskets I would tighten it by hand and then put the proper sized fluted wrench on it and give it a little more of a turn until you feel some resistance. Of course, always lubricate the gasket.