Car starting problem...

[soyeahiknow]

Hi all,

Sorry this might be a bit long. I bought a used 01 Hyundai Elantra 9 month ago. I have driven about 6K on it already. The longest trip I have taken was 5 hours 2 months ago.

Ok now the problem. I just drove 1000 miles (16 hours) the last two days, so 8 hours a day. Here are the symptoms I am getting

1. Day 1, after 4 hours of driving, stopped to get gas, car will crank but not start. It seems like it would start a little but then die right away. It helps when I press the gas while starting it.

2. After it does start, the car rolls really slowly almost like it was starved for gas. I would press the gas and it would move slowly. Almost died pulling out of the gas station!

3. I notice if I fill with gas and then let it sit for a few minutes while I go to the bathroom or buy some snacks, it starts right away.

4. Day 2- while driving 70 mph on I95, the car lights, radio, engine went out really fast and then back on. It seems like the car died for a split second.

5. A few times, including today, when I went to start it, it will crank but not turn over. Then when I go to start it a few times again, it doesn't even crank, just plain dead like you get when you have a dead battery from leaving the light on. now here is the STRANGE thing, when I open the fuse box in the engine compartment and pull out the starter fuse and then plug it back in, the car starts on the first try!

What I have tried so far
I know there are a couple things like the alternator, battery, and fuel pump.

Fuel pump- When I turn the key to start, I don't hear it priming. But then, I don't know it is priming but it's just really quiet? The fuel pump priming on my 93 Civic is super loud so I don't know if the Elantra is just quiet?

Battery- It's from Napa and only 2 years old. It is rated for 3 years.

Alternator- A mechanic about 7 month ago was doing a timing belt change and he said it looks worn but still have life in it.

One last thing, I added MMO to a tank of gas before starting my trip, would that have caused a problem? I added a conservative amount of MMO.

Thanks!

 

[Colt45ws]

1-3 does this issue only occur if you fill with gas or during other short stops like a rest area?
4-5 some sort of electrical fault.

 

[Warstud]

Sounds like two different issues. First I would start by cleaning your battery and battery terminals. Then replace the fuel filter. If no improvement... have the fuel pressure checked. Your fuel pump may be going out.

 

[sciphi]

Crank position sensor? Those can cause starting problems.

Also, try tightening the positive battery terminal. Hyundai's connectors were fairly weak back then, and they can work loose.

 

[Cardenio327]

Originally Posted By: soyeahiknow
Battery- It's from Napa and only 2 years old. It is rated for 3 years.

Alternator- A mechanic about 7 month ago was doing a timing belt change and he said it looks worn but still have life in it.


If a Napa battery only has a 3 yr. warranty it is likely to be junk after 2 yrs. I don't know about now, but in the past with Napa's batteries you needed one with at least a 50 or 72 mo. warranty to have a chance it would be any good. The 60 & 65 mo. models were junk, along with the lesser ones that weren't labeled as a professional type battery. A bad cell could be causing you problems, more so with problems #4 & 5, less so with #1, 2 & 3.

There is no way your mechanic could have judged the alternator as "worn" or not without splitting the case halves, and no one wrenching for a living is going to split the cases out of curiosity in this day and age.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: Cardenio327
Originally Posted By: soyeahiknow
Battery- It's from Napa and only 2 years old. It is rated for 3 years.

Alternator- A mechanic about 7 month ago was doing a timing belt change and he said it looks worn but still have life in it.


If a Napa battery only has a 3 yr. warranty it is likely to be junk after 2 yrs. I don't know about now, but in the past with Napa's batteries you needed one with at least a 50 or 72 mo. warranty to have a chance it would be any good. The 60 & 65 mo. models were junk, along with the lesser ones that weren't labeled as a professional type battery. A bad cell could be causing you problems, more so with problems #4 & 5, less so with #1, 2 & 3.

There is no way your mechanic could have judged the alternator as "worn" or not without splitting the case halves, and no one wrenching for a living is going to split the cases out of curiosity in this day and age.


+1 ....did you say a mechanic said it was worn out or a magician said it was worn out. Neither can tell by looking, but the magician might entertain you while telling you.

 

[Donald]

Don't judge a fuel pump by its cover (or sound). GM had the real problems with fuel pumps. A noisy one can last another 5 years or 5 minutes.

But the fuel pump is cooled by fuel being pumped through it. So don't run out of fuel.

 

[DNVDMAX]

Sure sounds like dying/dead fuel pump. Symptoms 1-4 happened to me on my toyota while traveling 95 this summer. Buy from AAP w/discount code.

 

[mattd]

does this have the 1.6 engine? If so, crank sensors are very common and will throw the exact symptoms you are describing. What happens in corrosion builds up between the sensor and the engine block, causing too large of a gap for the sensor to read the reluctor ring on the crank. I'd replace the CPS and clean the rust off.

As others have said, ensure tight, clean connections at the battery.

And you cannot tell an alternator is "worn" by simply looking at it.

 

[soyeahiknow]

Hi all,

Just want to give an update:

I think the electronic problem is fixed! The problem was how it would sometimes shut down for a split second when I am driving. So I was driving the other day and it shut off on me. I opened the hood and saw that that the battery cable seemed to be a little loose. The OEM terminal part of the black wire was pretty flimsy. A guy stopped to help me push it off the road told me his car has the same terminal type and it caused him the same problem. I tightened it as best as I could and drove home. Replaced it with a heavy duty terminal the next day from AAP. You all should see into replacing that part too! Connector was only $3.99. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...ft_6281737-p?navigationPath=L1*14920|L2*15001

As far as the car being hard to start after fueling at the gas station, that still happens. But I think I know where I went wrong. Last month, I replaced the EVAP Purge Valve because I was getting a Evap leak code and a lot of Hyundai Elantras have that problem with the EVAP Purge Valve being stuck open. I replaced it with a Dorman brand part that was compatible from Amazon. Someone just told me that they used the same part and their car started messing up too because the Dorman brand EVAP Purge valve isn't up to spec with the OEM. So I am looking to order an OEM one and put that in. hopefully that will fix everything...

 

[soyeahiknow]

Another update!

I bought a genuine Hyundai Evap purge valve on Ebay (dealer wanted 2x as much!) and the difficult starting after putting in gas problem is solved!

But now the check engine light is back on for a Evap Leak. Oh well... If I was the one driving the car, I wouldn't mind the difficult start since I can just use a gas can to fill up at home (since if it sits for a bit after filling up, it will start right up). But since it is my wife's daily driver, I don't want her to have to deal with that.