Car in storage; when to change oil?

[drugrep]

I store my 2024 Lexus ES 350 in the winter. When I change the oil when I get it out for the spring, should I drain the oil at ambient temperature and not start the car due to possible condensation in that oil? Normally, of course we would get the oil warm before we drain it, but with a stored car, would it be best to drain at ambient air temperature to prevent any of that accumulated moisture from getting in the engine?

EDIT: I’d say the car is in a cold garage for 5 months. Worried about condensation. Also, the water should go to bottom of pan due to density and polarity so it would theoretically drain 1st if I pulled the plug at ambient temp without starting and stirring up getting that water up in engine.

#Lexus #Toyota

 

[Kurtatron]

Nope nope nope. I’ve been storing a vehicle for 10 years over winters. Condensation does not form in a car unless you had one circumstance.

If you share the garage with another car that drives in and out, bringing in slush, then you will have condensation issues. The dampness causes condensation when the garage warms up from the hot car, water will condense on the cold vehicle as the garage warms up. Then you get rust. Which is what happened to my vehicle.

My solution was to use a Car Jacket. A bag that sealed a dry environment for my vehicle. Worked perfectly for years. Never had any rust from old oil. I even stored it over winter with 1,000 miles on it. Just made sure to get it nice and hot before storing the vehicle .

 

[shortyb]

I did not change the oil before storing. I didn’t want to change it before storing and then again when I get it out.

Thats why you do it BEFORE storage. You get rid of all the moisture/fuel laden morass before it sits in your engine all winter. Spring comes, and you have fresh oil to start on. Storing in an heated garage will have a relatively high air moisture content vs. an unheated one. I'd be way more worried (and I'm not ) about condensation in the fuel tank than the oil. Gas is horribly hygroscopic. Or the exhaust system, unless made of corrosion resistant material with which the Lexus probably is. At the end of the day, the car will probably be long gone and you'll be driving something else before it succumbs to any moisture related issues.

The better way to do it is to change the oil right before storage. Then in the spring you don’t need to do anything, just carry on with that same oil that is essentially brand new

Beat me to it.

 

[shortyb]

Nope nope nope. I’ve been storing a vehicle for 10 years over winters. Condensation does not form in a car unless you had one circumstance.

If you share the garage with another car that drives in and out, bringing in slush, then you will have condensation issues. The dampness causes condensation when the garage warms up from the hot car, water will condense on the cold vehicle as the garage warms up. Then you get rust. Which is what happened to my vehicle.

My solution was to use a Car Jacket. A bag that sealed a dry environment for my vehicle. Worked perfectly for years. Never had any rust from old oil. I even stored it over winter with 1,000 miles on it. Just made sure to get it nice and hot before storing the vehicle .

People thought I was a bit, uh, detail oriented when I would roll my bikes in a large bag over the winter, and seal it up a few pounds of desiccant bags. What you outlined is the exact reason having a car "stored" in a garage will develop moisture unless it is shielded from everything else, ie; put in a big bag with moisture absorbing material.

 

[dnewton3]

Very old engines could have condensation issues from storage. This was due to PCV systems being open to atmosphere, so moisture could enter the engine fairly easily. Old gas engines also had carbs, with air bleeds and air horns, etc; that was also an entry pathway. Yada, yada, yada ... Modern engines don't have this issue; they are sealed fairly well. The PCV is sealed. The fuel tank system is sealed. There are no carbs to equalize atmospheric pressure through.

Also, sulphur content is way down in fuels and lubes today. When there was moisture inside an engine, and it combined with the sulphur, you'd get sulphuric acid; this could eat away at soft metals (bearings). But today's lubes and fuels don't have nearly as much sulphur present.

So, with nearly no moisture entering, and very little sulphur present, this issue is a thing from the past.
The OPs 2023 ES350 (2GR-FKS) isn't really affected by this concern.

Next time, change it prior to storage, and then don't give it a second thought.

 

[oil pan 4]

I store my 2024 Lexus ES 350 in the winter. When I change the oil when I get it out for the spring, should I drain the oil at ambient temperature and not start the car due to possible condensation in that oil? Normally, of course we would get the oil warm before we drain it, but with a stored car, would it be best to drain at ambient air temperature to prevent any of that accumulated moisture from getting in the engine?

EDIT: I’d say the car is in a cold garage for 5 months. Worried about condensation. Also, the water should go to bottom of pan due to density and polarity so it would theoretically drain 1st if I pulled the plug at ambient temp without starting and stirring up getting that water up in engine.

#Lexus #Toyota

One place I worked the backup diesel generators got ran once a month for an hour or at least they were supposed to.
The oil was supposedly changed every other year.
2 or 3 years is probably fine.

 

[Selmorides]

The better way to do it is to change the oil right before storage. Then in the spring you don’t need to do anything, just carry on with that same oil that is essentially brand new

Me too

 

[anderson]

i buy cars that sit for 5 to 25 years and half of them i start and drive off in. dont over think this.
i wouldn't even change the oil for leaving something sit for 6 months , just stick with the regular oci

 

[ripcord]

Much ado about nothing much. Any small traces of condensation will evaporate and get evacuated by the PCV system when you drive it and get the oil up to operating temperature.

 

[Skeet6]

I usually do it right after winter storage. My Mustang lives in the winter in a cold garage in PA, gas topped off with Sta-Bil and on a Battery Tender, Jr.
In the spring, she gets started, dust washed and rinsed off and a fresh oil change. Usually less than 500mi per summer, so I have in the past reused the oil in my daily. Now with a nicer daily, probably not. I think you may be worrying or overthinking. Good luck either way.
Mike B

 

[Oliveoil2]

28 year old car stored 5 years and no oil change. It’s driven once a year 50-100 miles. 200k+ and passes emissions with flying colors. The most important part of long term storage is to put the car in storage after it’s been run for a period and is fully hot, cooling fan comes on. I suppose if I was driving it more I’d change it once a year.

 

[Legs4Arms]

28 year old car stored 5 years and no oil change. It’s driven once a year 50-100 miles. 200k+ and passes emissions with flying colors. The most important part of long term storage is to put the car in storage after it’s been run for a period and is fully hot, cooling fan comes on. I suppose if I was driving it more I’d change it once a year.

One of mine gets stored from Halloween till April.1st each year. The garage it's parked in isn't temperature controlled but for instance this morning it was 15C so never gets too cold. The day I plan to be it's last day on the road I change the oil (this year with Mobil 1 Extended Performance/High Mileage 5W-30 and FRAM XG8A (that was for you mods) and wash it.

I then enjoy one last sunshiny cruise of about two hours. Before parking it I inflate the tires to about 38 PSI, add a full bottle of STABIL to the tank, then cover that with as much 94 octane as the tank will take. When I park it everything is warm and dry, I turn the battery disconnect off, lock it up, put it in gear without setting the e-brake, and call it done.

I've done this with this car for over 20 years and it still looks and drives as nice as the day I bought it.

 

[JHZR2]

No, but I thought oil that’s approaching 6 months old should be changed because of condensation. I’d say my car is in a cold garage for 5 months. If there is condensation, I would think the water would be in the bottom of the oil pan due to its density and polarity and would come out first if I just pulled the plug at ambient temperature. If I start the car and there is water in there, then it will get up in the valves and everything. I don’t know how much condensation really happens. I’ve just heard if your oil is six months old to change it so that’s why I was just gonna change it in the spring.

There’s no practical condensation in it.

Certainly not enough to matter.

Condensation that’s a concern is from combustion, where cold surfaces, compression, and all the water generated as hydrocarbons turn to carbon dioxide and water, results in some in the crankcase. That’s when/why you see moisture in oil.

If you’re that concerned, go one cycle, and then pull a used oil analysis.

Best practice is to change the oil hot when putting it away, just run it a few seconds to circulate the fresh oil, and shut it down. You know you have “dry” oil that is fresh. In general the best practice is to ensure that oil routinely gets up to true, full temperature… like 30 miles under load and speed.

 

[JHZR2]

28 year old car stored 5 years and no oil change. It’s driven once a year 50-100 miles. 200k+ and passes emissions with flying colors. The most important part of long term storage is to put the car in storage after it’s been run for a period and is fully hot, cooling fan comes on. I suppose if I was driving it more I’d change it once a year.

Exactly. My low use cars get oil changes every other year or longer. No issues. Use quality oil, and always get up to temp.

 

[cjcride]

You're overthinking this. Run the car, don't run the car. Get it on ramps and get the new oil in and be on your way. Condensation that accumulated during storage will drain out/ burn off on the first 20 minute drive you take.

Agreed, I would add drive conservatively for the first 20 minutes, then head to a highway

 

[philipp10]

How much moisture are you expecting? Seems you are over-thinking.