Car in storage; when to change oil?

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drugrep

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I store my 2024 Lexus ES 350 in the winter. When I change the oil when I get it out for the spring, should I drain the oil at ambient temperature and not start the car due to possible condensation in that oil? Normally, of course we would get the oil warm before we drain it, but with a stored car, would it be best to drain at ambient air temperature to prevent any of that accumulated moisture from getting in the engine?

EDIT: I’d say the car is in a cold garage for 5 months. Worried about condensation. Also, the water should go to bottom of pan due to density and polarity so it would theoretically drain 1st if I pulled the plug at ambient temp without starting and stirring up getting that water up in engine.

#Lexus #Toyota
 
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shortyb said:
When you change the oil upon coming out of hibernation, is it fresh oil or oil that was in the sump upon winterization? I used to put up motorcycles for the winter and changed the oil before saying goodnight. Once warm weather appears, I just start and go with the fresh oil. Also, where do you store it?
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I did not change the oil before storing. I didn’t want to change it before storing and then again when I get it out.
 
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drugrep said:
I did not change the oil before storing. I didn’t want to change it before storing and then again when I get it out.
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The better way to do it is to change the oil right before storage. Then in the spring you don’t need to do anything, just carry on with that same oil that is essentially brand new
 
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Start the car with the oil that's in there, mosey over to where you change the oil, change it, and run it again to get oil "everywhere" while the old oil's still sticking to surfaces. I would not worry about warming the oil all the way up to operating temp to change it, just stirring it up a little will be enough.

On the odd chance that you get a misfire from old fuel or whatever, the old oil will absorb it while you figure out the problem and you won't stress the new.

There is a risk that if you don't run the car before and after the oil change, you can lose oil pump prime. Plus you want to fill the filter.

Cars get started on old oil all the time. "Condensation" isn't much of a problem. Do you feel you have a unique storage situation that leads to a high amount of humidity swings or ???
 
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The_Jeff said:
Start the car with the oil that's in there, mosey over to where you change the oil, change it, and run it again to get oil "everywhere" while the old oil's still sticking to surfaces. I would not worry about warming the oil all the way up to operating temp to change it, just stirring it up a little will be enough.

On the odd chance that you get a misfire from old fuel or whatever, the old oil will absorb it while you figure out the problem and you won't stress the new.

There is a risk that if you don't run the car before and after the oil change, you can lose oil pump prime. Plus you want to fill the filter.

Cars get started on old oil all the time. "Condensation" isn't much of a problem. Do you feel you have a unique storage situation that leads to a high amount of humidity swings or ???
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No, but I thought oil that’s approaching 6 months old should be changed because of condensation. I’d say my car is in a cold garage for 5 months. If there is condensation, I would think the water would be in the bottom of the oil pan due to its density and polarity and would come out first if I just pulled the plug at ambient temperature. If I start the car and there is water in there, then it will get up in the valves and everything. I don’t know how much condensation really happens. I’ve just heard if your oil is six months old to change it so that’s why I was just gonna change it in the spring.
 
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drugrep said:
No, but I thought oil that’s approaching 6 months old should be changed because of condensation. I’d say my car is in a cold garage for 5 months. If there is condensation, I would think the water would be in the bottom of the oil pan due to its density and polarity and would come out first if I just pulled the plug at ambient temperature. If I start the car and there is water in there, then it will get up in the valves and everything. I don’t know how much condensation really happens. I’ve just heard if your oil is six months old to change it so that’s why I was just gonna change it in the spring.
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You're overthinking this. Run the car, don't run the car. Get it on ramps and get the new oil in and be on your way. Condensation that accumulated during storage will drain out/ burn off on the first 20 minute drive you take.
 
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Patman said:
The better way to do it is to change the oil right before storage. Then in the spring you don’t need to do anything, just carry on with that same oil that is essentially brand new
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^ This the way, imo. I've stored cars a few times for a month or 6 and I would just reconnect the battery and drive off. The new oil should be fine sitting in the car during storage.
 
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drugrep said:
I’d say the car is in a cold garage for 5 months. Worried about condensation. Also, the water should go to bottom of pan due to density and polarity so it would theoretically drain 1st if I pulled the plug at ambient temp without starting and stirring up getting that water up in engine.

#Lexus #Toyota
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I'd worry more about condensation on the chassis, causing surface rust issues (if you care). I found out about this condensation condition about 20 years ago when I stored-away my C5 Corvette in a detached, unconditioned garage/pole barn with a concrete floor. The car was covered, but what surprised me was the amount of moisture that had collected on the chassis after about a month or so. I ended up buying a garage mat to park the car on.
 
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I got tired of wasting oil so the last five or six years I parked my car with oil that had 3 to 4 k on it some years more some less I never had a issue !
where do you think this condensation is coming from ? you are giving yourself a headache over nothing.
 
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You wont get much condensation in the engine from just sitting unless your storing it outside under a waterproof tarp but not open to air in a garage. The best thing you can do is either change it before storage or make your last trip a LONG one to get the engine hot and keep it there long enough to burn off the fuel and water dilution, which you should do anyway to dry out your exhaust system before storage.
 
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The only moisture that could condense inside the engine is the water vapor that's already in the air inside the sump. (Unless you leave your engine block open and have fresh air circulating inside the sump.)

So the amount of moisture that could condense after sitting for 6 months is the same as would condense after 6 days.
 
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You are way overthinking this. Just change it when its due to be changed, if that is spring, or fall, it makes no difference.

I am not sure why you think it will have condensation in it.
 
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It won't have condensation in it. Does this garage routinely get warmed up and cooled down?

I have a 2500HD truck sitting outside right now and it's been -5 to 40s for the past few months. Oil is fine.
 
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I wonder if you are overthinking? not saying you are but I wonder.

I have always heard its best to change oil before storage then come Spring just run with that oil. I somethings overdo oil changes but I have never changed oil before storage as I like the feeling of Spring rolling around and doing a oil change then to get ready for riding season ( my Harley motorcycles as example ).

I live in a very humid coastal area and my garage is not heated or cooled. I have stored (3) Harley motorcycles every winter one its my 30th winter this year! a Hellcat I am on my 10th Winter.

I have never seen any hint of moisture in the oil in anything I own.

However, I make a point to NEVER, EVER start an engine be it a motorcycle or car unless I can ride or drive a minimum of 25 min to boil any water vapor out of the engine and oil.

Also, anything I store I fill the tank to the very top with Ethanol free gas and a mix of Sta-bil and Marvel Mystery Oil in the fall connect to a battery tender and forget about it till Spring or IF I see a warm day I may ride but a min of 25 min or I don't even start it!

I have never seen any milky stuff on a dip stick or in a oil filter etc that would suggest water vapor in my oil.
My thought is if I park it in the fall and don't start it until Spring, or IF I do start it Im doing my 25 min minimum to get the oil hot.

Why would draining the oil do anything at all as my thought as long as you get the engine full hot every time its started thats about all one can do without a heated garage no?
 
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