Car died today on the road, not charging… bad alternator?

[Klutch9]

My 2008 Sedona died out on the road today. Well, it died slowly. It has the original alternator at 209,000 miles old. It started shifting very erratically. Then lights started popping up on the dash when the revs dropped. I pulled over and used my multimeter to check battery voltage, and it looked okay, like it was charging around 14v. So I turned the car off and back on again and, as I suspected, the battery wasn’t charging now. Alternator seems to be on its way out. While it was idling I pulled the negative cable off and the van shut down immediately. This has to be an alternator right? It drove for awhile on battery power but then became basically undrivable. So now I’m waiting for a tow, about 15 miles from home. Don’t know what else it could be.

 

[ls1mike]

That is what is sounds like to me. 209,000 that alternator does not owe you much of anything.

 

[Bill7]

My 2008 Sedona died out on the road today. Well, it died slowly. It has the original alternator at 209,000 miles old. It started shifting very erratically. Then lights started popping up on the dash when the revs dropped. I pulled over and used my multimeter to check battery voltage, and it looked okay, like it was charging around 14v. So I turned the car off and back on again and, as I suspected, the battery wasn’t charging now. Alternator seems to be on its way out. While it was idling I pulled the negative cable off and the van shut down immediately. This has to be an alternator right? It drove for awhile on battery power but then became basically undrivable. So now I’m waiting for a tow, about 15 miles from home. Don’t know what else it could be.

Same thing happened to me with a Honda Odyssey.

My humble advice would be (in this order):
Try to get the OEM alternator.
If discontinued, try getting a new Denso alternator from denso's parts website:https://www.densoautoparts.com/
If that isn't available, go for a remanufactured denso from denso's parts website:https://www.densoautoparts.com/

Avoid getting any alternators from an auto parts store (either new or remanufactured), and avoid letting your mechanic order a cheap one that won't have the longevity you want and the mechanic will likely markup the price of that part a lot (Bad deal for you).

 

[Rand]

My 2008 Sedona died out on the road today. Well, it died slowly. It has the original alternator at 209,000 miles old. It started shifting very erratically. Then lights started popping up on the dash when the revs dropped. I pulled over and used my multimeter to check battery voltage, and it looked okay, like it was charging around 14v. So I turned the car off and back on again and, as I suspected, the battery wasn’t charging now. Alternator seems to be on its way out. While it was idling I pulled the negative cable off and the van shut down immediately. This has to be an alternator right? It drove for awhile on battery power but then became basically undrivable. So now I’m waiting for a tow, about 15 miles from home. Don’t know what else it could be.

As long as you didnt blow anything up removing the battery cable while its running should just need an alternator.

 

[Klutch9]

That is what is sounds like to me. 209,000 that alternator does not owe you much of anything.

Totally agree! This vehicle as a whole owes me nothing and has been amazing. I’m picking up a reman unit today, it’s an easy replacement.

 

[Warstud]

Yep ...... Slowly everything eletronically quits working . Lights , blinkers , dash and then quits .

 

[RedSpider]

Dont every pull a battery cable off a running car. It may be ok momentarily on your dads '67 Dodge but on a modern computer controlled car, especially since the ECU controls battery output.... lets just say if the alternator wasnt bad before you yanked the cable, it certainly is now.

 

[Dave Sherman]

Dont every pull a battery cable off a running car. It may be ok momentarily on your dads '67 Dodge but on a modern computer controlled car, especially since the ECU controls battery output.... lets just say if the alternator wasnt bad before you yanked the cable, it certainly is now.

Slightly off topic, but that's bad idea on almost any car, especially older ones. Without the battery to stabilize the output, alternator voltages can get very high and start zapping lights, radios, ECUs, ignition modules, and other expensive items. I know a guy who tried that on a motorcycle, burned out a bunch of lights. There's a big warning label under the hood of my MG warning against doing that for the same reason.

 

[Klutch9]

Slightly off topic, but that's bad idea on almost any car, especially older ones. Without the battery to stabilize the output, alternator voltages can get very high and start zapping lights, radios, ECUs, ignition modules, and other expensive items. I know a guy who tried that on a motorcycle, burned out a bunch of lights. There's a big warning label under the hood of my MG warning against doing that for the same reason.

Noted. For what it’s worth though, the battery was down to 8v and the alternator had already totally failed at that point. Vehicle could barely idle. It did start up okay after that to get onto the tow truck bed about a half hour later(assisted by a jumper) so all should be okay.

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

If you want to make sure you’re not stranded again in the very near future, replace the battery now. A dying alternator is notorious for frying the battery as well. My brother initially had several comebacks from cars like this that had the battery fail shortly after. He started including new batteries as standard, and hasn’t had a single comeback since.

One failure plus a battery as safety is always cheaper than 2 separate trips to the shop..

 

[joekingcorvette]

If you want to make sure you’re not stranded again in the very near future, replace the battery now. A dying alternator is notorious for frying the battery as well. My brother initially had several comebacks from cars like this that had the battery fail shortly after. He started including new batteries as standard, and hasn’t had a single comeback since.

One failure plus a battery as safety is always cheaper than 2 separate trips to the shop..

Yes batteries can definitely do crazy things and best to replace them after this type of incident.

 

[Klutch9]

If you want to make sure you’re not stranded again in the very near future, replace the battery now. A dying alternator is notorious for frying the battery as well. My brother initially had several comebacks from cars like this that had the battery fail shortly after. He started including new batteries as standard, and hasn’t had a single comeback since.

One failure plus a battery as safety is always cheaper than 2 separate trips to the shop..

I’m going to do this soon. It’s already over 4 years old. I just put the battery on the maintainer and I’ll see if it takes a full charge.

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

I’m going to do this soon. It’s already over 4 years old. I just put the battery on the maintainer and I’ll see if it takes a full charge.

It may take a “full” charge, but if the plates have been damaged, it’s a false sense of hope. The current capacity won’t be there when you need it.

 

[RedSpider]

Slightly off topic, but that's bad idea on almost any car, especially older ones. Without the battery to stabilize the output, alternator voltages can get very high and start zapping lights, radios, ECUs, ignition modules, and other expensive items. I know a guy who tried that on a motorcycle, burned out a bunch of lights. There's a big warning label under the hood of my MG warning against doing that for the same reason.

You are certainly correct, I only said it may be momentarily ok on older cars because in my less informed youth I had done this a few times without blowing anything up (on old non-ECU controlled cars), but I would not do this on a newer car ever. I've personally seen two ECU's ruined.

 

[ARB1977]

I’ve replaced batteries before with good voltage but low cranking amps. I just replaced my Duracell platinum AGM 5 years old with Die hard platinum AGM in my Tacoma today. Nothing abnormal but slow cranking.

 

[Drifter]

We drove a friends 1969 Olds 98 across town [approx 6 miles] with no battery. Fired it up and removed the battery. End of the cables had rags sercurely wrapped around them. Had to share. LOL Seemed fine after that. Alternator was only supplying power to the coil, turn signals and brake lights. Cars were tough back then

 

[RAR]

Several years ago, my 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis lost its alternator on my way to work. Back then I ran IT for an inner city clinic so I had to leave my car in the open lot overnight a couple of days until I could get it fixed.

It drained the battery and thus was incapable of getting me back home. I had no way to tow it then either, nor cash to pay a garage to repair.

So I brought in my battery charger, plugged my battery into it in the garage so I had a full charge (of course the office busybody noticed it and sent out an urgent email alert about a car battery being charged in the clinic garage and how it’s dangerous… ). She was set straight.

Threw it in the car, and thankfully made it home so I could fix it there. New alternator installed in the very cold winter… I could barely feel my fingers.

That car soldiered on for a few more years after I sold it.

That old Mercury was able to do that, but my current cars would freak out with a no charge alternator and do what the OP saw… the more they automate the plumbing, the easier it is to stop up the drain.

 

[zzyzzx]

Intermittent charging is often caused by worn out alternator brushes.

 

[f355spider]

Same thing happened to me with a Honda Odyssey.

My humble advice would be (in this order):
Try to get the OEM alternator.
If discontinued, try getting a new Denso alternator from denso's parts website:https://www.densoautoparts.com/
If that isn't available, go for a remanufactured denso from denso's parts website:https://www.densoautoparts.com/

Avoid getting any alternators from an auto parts store (either new or remanufactured), and avoid letting your mechanic order a cheap one that won't have the longevity you want and the mechanic will likely markup the price of that part a lot (Bad deal for you).

Totally agree with this advice. I always get the alternator either from the dealer, or an OEM/OES alternator from a reputable parts house. It can be new or rebuilt (rebuilt only by the manufacturer (bosch, Nippondenso, etc)). Third party rebuilders are very sketchy these days, especially those that supply the large chain stores. There are a few specialty rebuilders that do quality work, but hard to find them.