Capacitors - refrigerator

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Hall

Hall

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Our LG refrigerator recently died. We could hear a clicking sound coming from the kitchen in the prior 1-2 weeks but I never pinpointed where it was coming from but our son said it was coming from the fridge. Anyway, the other morning I opened it up and no light inside. First thought was the bulb just burned out but no light in the freezer side either. Finally, the front panel lights were out as well.I pulled the fuse on the control board and it appears to have burned up but before I simply swap in a new fuse, I know "something caused it to blow". Could have just been a surge but apparently the clicking sound is a symptom of a failing capacitor.

I've pulled both the 'motor starting capacitor' and 'motor running sh capacitor' and testing with my multimeter on the continuity check indicates both capacitor's circuits are "open". Now, on the 'motor running sh capacitor', if I let it sit for a bit, when I first touch the terminals I get a short tone but then it stops. Immediately checking again shows it being open. Using the Ohm reading, I get no value.

Is it common for both to fail at the same time ?
 
Not sure how useful your tests are...your meter is charging the cap when attached, hence the weird and unreliable readings. These caps are fairly simple and reliable devices. For the root cause of a failure, I'd say they are unlikely. I'd look elsewhere, or better yet, call someone who knows what to look for.
 
You can't test capacitors accurately with a DMM set to continuity. You need a capacitance meter. Why do you suspect the start and run caps? What about the filter caps on the control board? Do you have a picture of it, or the model # of the fridge?
 
It seemed like the caps failing was a common problem. I'm just testing different, simple things before going in too deep. As I mentioned in my original post, the 15A fuse on the control board had blown. I've replaced it and it's "alive" again although it's still making the clicking sound and I've yet to hear the compressor kick on. The clicking sound is coming from the lower 1/3 of the fridge (at least it sounds like it). Will leave it alone overnight to see if it cools down.

The fridge is an LG LSC26905TT. There's no obvious signs of damaged or failed caps, as in burst open or cracked or swollen.

Reason I was attempting to check the caps with a multimeter is places like RepairClinic, iFixit, etc show that you can. If you don't have a capacitance meter, you just use the resistance setting. If this isn't valid, so be it. Was just trying....
 
RepairClinic is awesome, it helped me fix my microwave last month, at least, much faster than guessing and poking around. One fuse and two interlock switches later, good as new.

There are a few more videos for your fridge, if I were you, I'd go through every part for that fridge and watch every video on RepairClinic, just to familiarize yourself with working on it.

Hopefully the clicking is a relay, and not the compressor motor. Usually these days the motor is built into the compressor and the whole thing needs to be replaced, which usually means new fridge time.

Good luck!
 
This is the "board" that's located on the top of the fridge. I know sound can travel funny and sound like it's coming from one place while it's really coming from another place. I'll get up there and listen to see if it's a relay up there. I'm almost positive that it's clicking more frequently than it was prior to it dying (fuse blowing) a few days ago.

We have a 2nd fridge in the garage so it's inconvenient but not an 'emergency' at this point.

It's been two hours and I'm sure it will take a while but it doesn't feel colder at all inside yet....

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OK fuse blowing. Keep in mind:
- there may be other fuses
- when a fuse blows, other things in the power chain often blow with it
- the clicking may be a relay that works fine, half works (clicks but doesn't pass current)
- try get behind the clicking relay and see if it is passing power

Keep trying, prove things work or don't work, keep moving down the chain of power until you get to the compressor (assuming that's not running).

Sorry general advice only, I have no special insight on this model.
 
I am in the same boat as you and have been dealing with a GE fridge motherboard issue, along with evaporator fan motor right now.

Long story short, sometimes thing shorting/failing inside can make the board fail or make weird noises.

In my case, exact same symptoms as you describe and control board was making a hissing noise, like a mouse.

Good luck and it seems like these days, majority of people just throw the appliance out and move on
frown.gif
 
You can test a capacitor for a shorted condition with continuity/resistance ranges, but that is about it. If it has failed open, the meter won't see it, and you won't get the phase shift needed to impart rotation in the motor. In case you don't have it yet: Service Manual
 
Pulled the lower back cover to expose the compressor, blower fan/motor, and condenser could. The fan is running and the compressor is warm (not too hot to touch). The clicking is almost certainly coming from the 'box' attached to the compressor (see attached picture).

E47C5007-C00F-4407-876F-7FE1B3AF00B0.webp
 
That's what I'm thinking too and it's a $10 part from Repair Clinic. They show a picture of a replacement compressor (no price and listed as "Not available") but this box is not shown on the replacement part so I hope that's a good sign that it's removable and replaceable.

Not sure how to open that cover up though. Found a video for another LG / Sears / Kenmore fridge and it has a screw facing out and the person describes push-tabs that release it. That's not the case with mine. Will keep trying and looking for a way to open it.

Also, Repair Clinic lists (4) start relays for this model. Are they alternates or are there (4) total start relays ? They only show 1 of the 4 as available too.
 
Originally Posted by hallstevenson
That's what I'm thinking too and it's a $10 part from Repair Clinic. They show a picture of a replacement compressor (no price and listed as "Not available") but this box is not shown on the replacement part so I hope that's a good sign that it's removable and replaceable.

Not sure how to open that cover up though. Found a video for another LG / Sears / Kenmore fridge and it has a screw facing out and the person describes push-tabs that release it. That's not the case with mine. Will keep trying and looking for a way to open it.

Also, Repair Clinic lists (4) start relays for this model. Are they alternates or are there (4) total start relays ? They only show 1 of the 4 as available too.


You will have to take out the relay anyway - just confirm specs match the replacement when you do. That top clip thing looks like it could be moved up and out of the way.
 
Yes, that 'slot' needs pried up with a tool and in my case, I needed to squeeze my other hand in there and 'twist' it down and away. I ended up cracking the plastic at the slot as it took that much pressure to release it but it's off. Got the relay unplugged from the compressor as well as the overload protector. I left the wires connected until I get replacements.

Some suggest replacing the overload at the same time. Is that necessary ? I guess I could try and check/test it or worst case, I buy both but only initially replace the relay. If it works, I won't connect the overload and likely will just return it.
 
I had one of those go out after a power blink. The phone tech said to take it out and shake it. If it sounded like there was loose pieces in it. Replace. Mine sounded like Moroccas. Replaced and it worked for 10 more years. Mine was a whirlpool
 
Start relay and overload protector arrived today and have been installed. It didn't sound good at first - had the same clicking but eventually the compressor kicked on and it's getting cold in there. We still haven't moved items from the garage fridge just yet.... Letting it go close to 24 hours before I'm confident that it's good. I do need to put the top panel and back panel back on. They REALLY insulate the sounds of the electronics quite a bit. With the top cover off, when you open or close the door, the relay/switch for the light is quite loud whereas with the cover on, you barely notice.
 
Originally Posted by HangFire
Good work! Also put water in the freezer ice cube trays and see if it freezes.

Hah ! I did that early this morning (dogs wanted out earlier than usual) and a few hours later when I checked, it's ice ! Yeah !
 
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