Caliper and phenolic pistons

[supton]

Well, it seems the brake job I did for a friend is coming back around again. I don't recall any issues with pushing the pistons back in, but one caliper decided to give up the ghost and ate the pads. I cracked open the bleeder and tried to push the piston back in, and no go--it seems quite stuck.

Now I did the brakes about 3 months ago. The pads were shot then, metal on metal. Maybe while pushing the pistons back in, any crud that had been in there got sideways and is causing the piston to now stick? Maybe it's just a random failure? It's a phenolic piston, and a quick look seems to indicate that they fail more often.

Anyhow, I'll probably just mailorder a Raybestos but my question is, should I just shotgun the other side while I'm at it? I'm going to pull the other wheel and make sure it's not showing excessive pad wear. I'd like to order everything in one shot and knock the job out; I couldn't find a caliper locally, not on a Sunday.

I think I will reuse the rotor, mine usually look way worse. Bummed that we didn't diagnose a noise it had faster, I suspect the caliper failed right after I did the job.

 

[SatinSilver]

What brand rotors are they?

Just make sure you get the Ray Opti-cals. I'd get two to be safe unless there's a big budget concern. Should run $120 for both shipped.

 

[supton]

Rabyestos rotors were used. Budget is a concern.

Turns out other side is dragging and pads are shot there too. Not sure yet if bad caliper or not.

 

[SatinSilver]

Here's a current 5% off code for Rock.

9157774085518432

Staying with Raybestos EHT pads shouldn't bump shipping up too much.

 

[supton]

Thanks! Will order later today I think, pending any more feedback.

Am bummed. I knocked this job out for my friend for $60 or so, pads&rotors. Looks like I should have done calipers too I guess. Now it'll be calipers andpads, as the other side is low on material.

I cracked the bleeder on the other side, piston does push in but it feels like its dragging. I hate to think about it but I'm wondering if I should pull the fronts while I'm at it...

 

[Chris142]

Replace both calipers as they have the save amount of time and dirt in them.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

I put phenolic calipers on the back of the f-350 last year. Was hoping to get more than 2 years out of them.

Well, I was right about not getting 2 years out of them . I now have to warranty them because both sets of pistons are seized up. Again.

 

[supton]

Originally Posted by Chris142
Replace both calipers as they have the save amount of time and dirt in them.

Yeah, that's what it's looking like, they have done their duty. 7 years and 190kmiles.

Looks like I did cheapo Raybestos rotors; at $12 I might replace that one that went metal on metal.

Pads were Raybestos "Enhanced Hybrid Technology". Guess we'll try those--again.

 

[supton]

Originally Posted by Miller88
I put phenolic calipers on the back of the f-350 last year. Was hoping to get more than 2 years out of them.

Well, I was right about not getting 2 years out of them . I now have to warranty them because both sets of pistons are seized up. Again.

That's a bummer.

Dumb question: what gives up on these pistons? Do they swell? Wondering if I can take the pistons out and just run run a brake hone. If calipers were $20 and lasted 5 years it wouldn't be worth the effort, but at >$50 and less than 5 years it might be worth the effort.

 

[SatinSilver]

supton,

What year and model is it?

 

[supton]

Originally Posted by SatinSilver
What year and model is it?

2011 Sonata with about 190kmiles. LE I think, 2.4L/6MT I think. I did pads and rotors this summer, which is a bit of a job on this car, as you have to all but remove a control arm to get the rotor off.

Ugh, just remembered that was why I didn't want to replace that rotor, somehow forgot about that bit.

 

[ruhroh]

Phenolic pistons can swell over time as part of the piston is exposed to air. When it's time to replace pads, the piston might not retract back as easily and might cause drag of the pads on the rotor. Get new pistons + seals, don't refinish them.

 

[maxdustington]

Originally Posted by ruhroh
Phenolic pistons can swell over time as part of the piston is exposed to air. When it's time to replace pads, the piston might not retract back as easily and might cause drag of the pads on the rotor. Get new pistons + seals, don't refinish them.
I've never seen inside the bore of a caliper with a phelonic piston, do you really not need to hone it? That's pretty awesome.
This thread combined with the thread about the Dakota makes me think BITOGers will have a future disdain for calipers with "plastic" pistons!

 

[supton]

Doah! Was going to order Raybestos calipers but waited too long--not showing on rock. ACDelco? Everything looks like remans. I did find a higher end Raybestos remans with their RPT tech; I wasn't going to bother with fancy coatings as I don't think this car has another 5 years left. RC12650 and RC12649, actually after I ship back the cores it's the same price. Says it has pads but doesn't specify what kind of pads.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9651084&cc=1446207&jsn=42

 

[SatinSilver]

Looks like the EHT pads. There's a picture of them in number 5/6 if you scroll through them.

 

[supton]

Wound up getting Rabestos remans, PG Plus I think, and more EHT pads. Lower cost option.