Bypass Mount and VVT-I Engine

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Steven_L

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I just finished helping my buddy install an Amsoil BMK13 mount on his '05 Tundra.

Everything installed fine, oil pressure is good, and both filters get hot.

But the engine seems to have developed a new "tapping" noise.

This "tapping" noise increases or decreases with the rpm of the engine.

Since this engine has variable valve timing could the installation of the bypass mount have somehow possibly reduced the oil flow enough to affect the engine's valve timinig operation.

All in all the engine runs fine and has power like it did before the install.

Any help will be much appreciated.
 
Did a level check right after the initial engine start to circulate the oil.

Oil level is right at the full mark.
 
How long are the oil hose runs? mounting?

I topped off a 4.7 that was 2.5 quarts low and it didn't make any noise.

And yes, a bypass oil filter can bypass enough oil to screw up anything controlled by oil flow and PSI. I'd worry!

IMO, a bypass should be an independent standalone option. The BMK13 strikes again. May I recommend the BMK11?
 
Unit is mounted directly below the battery on the inside wheel well.

Both hose runs are no longer than about 16" each.
 
Removed biasing valve and no go. Still had noise.

I noticed in another thread where someone attached an oil pressure gauge to their BMK13 mount.

So I attached a gauge to the unused out port and had good pressure per Toyota specs.

So next I removed the spin on adapter and went back to the Ea57 oil filter.

Noise went away.

What scares me is that the noise is in synch with the rpm of the engine.

I'm going on a 1000 mile trip this weekend so I do not want to chance damaging the valve train so I'm going to leave the BMK13 disconnected and go with the Ea57.

If I cannot figure this out then I guess I'll try a BMK11 mount. There are a couple of ports on the oil cooler assembly that I can tap into and then run the return into the oil filler cap.

Thanks for the assist and info and I'm hoping maybe someone else with a similar setup as mine can share their experiences.
 
Search here. Plenty of issues/complaints with the bmk13 or dual remote bypass.

I would've expected that removing the metering portion of the mount should've solved your problem.
I also see that using a full flow does.

Change the Amsoil hoses/fittings so that you can use 1/2" ID hose insead of the 13/32" hoses. A couple pairs of barb'd fittings at the block/filters mounts, and some oil-hose shouldn't cost much.

And, double check your hose runs. Make sure "IN" at mount is fed from "OUT" at block adapter, and not "IN" to "IN" or "OUT" to "OUT". Double check your oil flow arrows!

Overfill oil by a pint to see if that helps.

Sell the BMK13 on ebay and install a BMK11!
 
Check to make sure the noise you are hearing is not just a viberation though the hoses, had the same thing happen on an install I did and we had to insulate the hoses with rubber pads were they met the frame or body.
 
Quote:

Hoses are 1/2".

Hose runs are correct.

Will get a BMK-11 next week.

Click to expand...


Hold up a minute, Steve. Although this may seem like a good move, let's see if there are better ways to hook up the BMK11 in THIS CASE due to the VVT aspect of the engine. I don't know if you want to sap ANY oil flow off of the design flow. I'm downloading the 2005-2006 Tundra repair manual (massive file) to see what type of oil pump they have on this thing. That is, you may JUST want to order the bare mount and not the kit (a bmk12 would fit in place of what you've got now - just a thought).

That is, a Permacool sandwich may be a better way to use a bypass filter in this instance. This just means that you get some O ring boss fittings for the Amsoil mount. The whole thing should be self regulating.
 
Cool.

I really appreciate the effort Gary.

The hoses are not touching any part of the frame or body.

I too thought it might be some type of "cavitation" or "vibration" of the oil traveling through the mount except for the fact that the "sound" increases or decreases in perfect synch with the engine's rpms.

I do have the repair manual but could not figure out the type of oil pump used.

Where the oil filter attaches is actually caleed the "oil cooler assembly" I believe.

The actual oil pump is attached to the front side of the engine driver's side behind a cover.

This "oil cooler assembly" provides a path for the oil up to the thermostat housing and back.

Not sure if the oil goes through the thermostat housing before or after going through the oil filter.

Guess this is Toyota's way of helping to cool the oil.

I really do want the extra filter capacity a bypass mount will provide whether it's a 13, 12, or 11 mount.

Look forward to yours and others findings and suggestions.
 
The manual gives fairly good pictorials ..but not any conceptual background on operations (like my jeep FSM does). It took about 16hours to download this file via some torrent thingie and I'm finding it difficult to navigate
confused.gif


Anyway, I've seen the water bypass pipe ..and the pump itself ..cooler ..even the relief valve.


I can't see any post filter pressure regulation that may be present due to the VVT. It probably exists ..just that I cannot find it.

What I'd do is get a Permacool sandwich and plumb it to your existing mount FIRST. This will tell you if the Permacool's relief poppet valve is adequate to provide the additional flow needed to keep that tensioner (or whatever it is) happy. If it works ..then reinstall the biasing valve. If that works out ..then you can decide to leave it "as is" or buy (just the mount) BMK11 or BMK12. The Permacool sandwich should maintain a 2PSID across the hoses and the mount. If the ticking is still present (possible, but highly unlikely) then a VERY SMALL (EXTREMELY SMALL) hole may be drilled in the Permacool mount.

That should only require a Permacool sandwich and two 3/8 x 1/2 reducers

5405-2T.jpg


You may find them (ultimately) cheaper somewhere else ..because this source, although very cheap, requires a $20 order and S&H starts at about $9
dunno.gif


all the fittings that anyone could reasonably need
 
So if I'm reading you correctly.

Plumb over to my existing BMK-13 mount using a new Perma-Cool sandwich adapter leaving my original oil filter in place on the new Perma-Cool mount.

So I would have 3 filters in the system.

If all goes well then re-install the biasing valve.

If all is still well then I could leave the system plumbed like that and use both the original filter and the BMK-13 filters.
 
Essentially, yes
smile.gif
It's cheaper than just ditching the current mount for a BMK11 or BMK12. It should give you the same performance and longevity. The filter in the normal location (below the sandwich) should see the cleanest oil that can be had.
 
Good evening all!

Would love to hear any follow-up on this thread - have a 2007 Tundra with the VVT-i type engine that I'd love to go to a bypass setup when I get out of warranty period. Curious if a problem/solution was found...

thanks much,
ben
 
Just got the PermaCool sandwich adapter installed and plumbed it over to a BMK-13 bypass mount.

Onto the sandwich adapter I installed a "ForceField" magnetic oil filter.

Then onto the "ForceField" goes the engine's full flow filter.

The "knocking" or "ticking" noise I was getting when I was not using the sandwich adapter is gone.

So all seems well in this setup.

I have a mechanical "wet" oil pressure gauge connected to the output side of the BMK-13 mount and pressure is good.

Should have some pretty clean oil for quite a while.
 
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