Bypass Filters and High Performance Engines

[InvisibleFrisbee]

I'm eyeing an amsoil BMK23 dual bypass system, and have searched these forums and the internet and am finding it difficult to find installations of this or similar systems in high performance engines. It seems like these are mostly installed in trucks and cars that are mostly highway driven. The closest I've found to a high performance engine is a post about an S2000 on these forums, but again...mostly highway driven.

My engine is a supercharged Ford 4.6L that dynod just this last weekend at 445 HP (corrected) at the rear wheels. This car has been auto crossed (not a lot), and I plan on taking it on a road coarse a few times.

I've read some things that seem to indicate there is a drop in oil pressure with a system like this...which leads me to believe that may be a primary reason these are not used in high performance engines. Am I correct in this assumption?

I'm not an oil expert at all, but am always willing to learn what I can from others who are willing to be patient and teach. The primary objective in this is to reduce wear on the engine and keep it operating efficiently. Any extension in the life of the oil is a secondary benefit.

So should I be staying away from bypass filters on my weekend toy? Maybe a prelube pump and call it good? Other suggestions?

 

[Highline9]

Take a look at the top dog v. I ordered 2 for my hemi's. With the paralell flow in there design you should not see a presure drop.

 

[Lead Shoes]

You are going to want a system that just filters the oil from the sump and puts it back in the sump if you are worried about a couple psi drop.

 

[InvisibleFrisbee]

I'm replacing the K-Member in my car this winter, which requires a remote oil filter, which is the reason I started researching all of this information. To counter act the drop in oil pressure, would it make sense to use a dual full flow remote filter setup with the top dog v sandwiched in between? From my other reading it seems that two full flow filters in parallel increase oil pressure.

What would be considered the lowest acceptable oil pressure? At normal cruising speeds the oil pressure hangs just over 50 PSI and goes to around 75 at WOT.

 

[Highline9]

Run the largest hose to and from remote filter and run a pl30001 filter size or bigger. That should cure any presure problems, oh ya no tight bends in hose.

 

[jetman]

Originally Posted By: InvisibleFrisbee


What would be considered the lowest acceptable oil pressure?


I think this would depend on the engine and its oil system design. If it was a small block chevy, 20 psi would be enough. I use to drag race these engines and would decrease the bypass spring pressure in the oil pump so as to minimize hp loss. Spun the engines to 8000 rpm with solid lifter and roller cams. Never lost an engine and would rebuild them once/yr.

Look at the Amsoil setup?
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/bf.aspx

 

[Jim Allen]

IMO, the primary benefit of a bypass system is as an oil life extender. It does have engine life benefits but the payoff is way, way down the road for most of us (i.e. engines that run lots of miles) and most of us don't keep a car long enough to realize those benefits (versus just using sound but ordinary maintenance practices). I'm not sure (bit don't think) there would be a reliability benefit in a performance situation. I any case, here are some specifics for you:

A 3u bypass system on my 3V 5.4L Ford dropped oil pressure 4-6 psi. That engine is generally similar to your 4.6. It's still well above the minimal spec, now running about 26-28 at hot (190F EOT) idle and 55psi at 2000 rpm. I am running 10W30 oil and with no bypass, I was running 32 psi idle and 63 at 2000 (at 190 EOT).

It's a Racor ABS system (for which you can buy 3, 5 and 10u filter elements) and it has a .040" orifice on the outlet. It's connected to the port on the oil filter housing where the oil pressure sender is fitted (that is the only external access to the lube system I can find) and the return goes to a special replacement oil filler cap.

 

[InvisibleFrisbee]

Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
IMO, the primary benefit of a bypass system is as an oil life extender. It does have engine life benefits but the payoff is way, way down the road for most of us...


Would you say that a prelube system would be more in the direction I need to head if I'm primarily concerned about keeping the engine running well? The car does sit for up to 2 weeks at a time during the summer and a month or two in the winter without being started.

 

[Jim Allen]

Again, IMO, a preluber is an engine life extender but the benefits are way, way down the road so a cost/benefit analysis won't come out good if you plan on trading the car in five years or so. Short term reliability gains are about nil. The Modulars have a particularly good lube system that build pressure quickly and since they do have to crank over a little to start, they usually get the oil moving quickly. Using a 5W20 oil will ensure good and quick flow at startup. If your HO engine is spec'ed for 30 grade oil, a 0W30 syn will also ensure good startup flow. FWIW, I think you have very simple needs and can spend your money on other stuff.

 

[slalom44]

You're referring to the Bypass and prelube system in my Honda S2000. It's working great, and I intend to keep it long enough to realize the benefits of reduced wear. I'm currently at 211,000 miles and my car still runs like new. .

I believe Jim Allen is right - a bypass is primarily an oil life extender. The benefit of reduced wear isn't realized until many miles, and most drivers don't keep their car that long. But I believe that if you really want to extend the life of your engine, a prelube and bypass setup will give you your best chances.

If the car sits idle for extended periods, the prelube should eliminate dry starts. I can't prove it, but I can tell you that the first 50,000 miles or so on my system was like that. This car didn't turn into a daily driver until later.

I don't see any problem using it on a high performance engine if you plan on keeping it a long time but I would make sure you have an oil pressure gauge and perform used oil analysis, working your way up in OCI mileage. That's what I did, and I don't believe I ever took a big risk.

 

[rrounds]

If you want to reduce engine wear you might try this oil mix out.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2334500#Post2334500
I am going to buy 2 qt's, mix the two and see what the Virgin Oil Analysis says about it. If it reads like johnbottilaw Virgin Oil Analysis then I'll try it out in my '06 S2000.
I mix my oil now in the S2000 and I run 7500 miles on it and my used oil analysis are very good(also run a very big filter).

ROD