By-Pass return line. Where to put it?

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Well,

Since I have a by-pass filter on my 2003 VW Jetta TDI (That is still in warranty mind you) I can say that I'm the expert here.

Stay away from the Valve cover, 1 it's made of aluminum and WILL probably leak. 2nd stay away from the the self tapping bolt. What will you do when you get rid of the car. How many hours do you want to spend explaining to the new owner about by-pass filtration and it's merits??? Looks like you would either have to buy them a new oil pan or a new valve cover. Not something that I want to do.

My return line goes into the drain plug hole, it's not a hollow bolt but a Banjo Bolt(like used on brake lines) with a 90 degree banjo fitting. It's been on there for over 15,000 miles and works great.

If you don't want to find the parts yourself, send me an email and I will get you in touch with the guy that sold me my parts. He's and Amsoil dealer that does not advertise on this site so I won't put his info out. But you can order the return line fittings only from him.
 
Is this what your looking for?

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msparks,

What size of lines do you recomend for a bypass filter installation. -3 or -4 AN ? My guess is -4, but wanted to ask before spending any money.
 
quote:

Originally posted by alloy:
msparks,

What size of lines do you recomend for a bypass filter installation. -3 or -4 AN ? My guess is -4, but wanted to ask before spending any money.


The Amsoil comes with all the hose already. I suppose you can get hoses made at any hydraulic shop, but I try not to reinvent the wheel. I have my setup stock(except for the banjo on the drain plug) So when I sell any amsoil system to someone they don't have to be an engineer to install it.
 
Well despite what some so called 'experts' say, I am on my second tdi with the return line in the valve cover and no major catastrophes have occurred...

I had an '02 tdi that I drove 65k miles on with an oilguard bypass setup that Drivebiwire installed which returned the oil to the valve cover just under the oil fill cap.

I now have an '00 tdi with the dieselgeek oil bypass kit, which returns the oil to the valve cover, near the ccv, with about 10k miles on the kit. As one person said, there is a plastic shield inside the valve cover that the oil hits and runs down to help prevent it from squirting where it shouldn't. I haven't noticed any appreciable oil loss when measuring.
 
Mangusta has the start of a good solution. Now if you can figure a way to use his idea and keep the dipstick you'd have a great return.
 
Quote:



2nd stay away from the the self tapping bolt. What will you do when you get rid of the car. How many hours do you want to spend explaining to the new owner about by-pass filtration and it's merits??? Looks like you would either have to buy them a new oil pan or a new valve cover. Not something that I want to do.





I agree with you about the self tapping bolt. However, if you tapped and drilled an NPT port you could buy a cheap plug for it later. You'd just have to be careful not to mess up the oil pan.
 
If you want to use the STHB shown in the picture you should consider using a punch with a shoulder on it that forms the hole to match. You get a lot more area for the threads to bite into. I think that Frantz dealers have them. You can start with a small pilot hole then hold it up to the oil pan and wack it until it seats and you're done.
 
I think make and model of vehicle is pretty important in deciding whether to put the return oil in the valve cover/oil fill cap or not.

I have a 1996 Buick PA that I am thinking of putting the return to the cap. Alternately, one might re-work the dipstick tube a bit to have a " T " in it just down from the place the dipstick is inserted. That way the oil slides down the dipstick when engine is running, and when you remove the dip stick, you should be able to wipe it off and wait a minute for any remaining oil to flow down to the pan before checking the oil level.

Thoughts??
 
Just clamp the return hose on the dipstick tube. Put a valve somewhere in line. Find some place to stash your dipstick.
 
After looking at my dipstick, I ponder whether that is a very good return area. The reason is that the dipsick goes right past and between the exhaust header pipes. It has to get that dipstick pretty hot there. For a dipstick, no worries! Your car is turned off when you check the oil, and there is virtually no oil actually dripping down there during normal running.

Don't you think the dipstick tube might be a bit TOO hot when you are running it and having oil slowly slide down it to the engine sump?
 
I don't think so ..but what do I know
dunno.gif
If you had access to a IR temp gun thingies ...you could just read the dipstick.
 
I have a 97 malibu with an 3100...I put my return into the oil fill cap. I have a replacement cap in my glove box. I could probably take the whole assembly off in a half hour if I sell the car. If I get another GM product im all set. Ive had the filter on for about 3 years. Im planning on keeping it on until it does not flow. Its really easy to see if it is flowing by starting the car up and checking the cap while the car is running.
 
On my CAT diesel in my boat I put in a bifurcated
dip stick receiver, one for the stick and the other
for the return of the superclean oil. This is called
a parasitic system when the oil is returned to the sump.
The by pass is an Amsoil dual with the big filters.
Very happpy with this arrangement.
Craig
 
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As I was puzzling out what to do, I noticed that the BMW oil dipstick tube was a perfect interference fit for the flexible rubber oil return line. So I pulled the dipstick out, fabricated some more positive retention device (with hose clamps) to ensure the return hose could not come out and am using the oil dipstick tube as a return oil path to the aluminum pan.




This mob sell a "T" piece into dipstick tube return.

img_1169605980_14902_1180076351_mod_231_145.jpg
 
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