Buttonwillow track day!! Recommend an oil!!

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Here's the deal. My friend is heading out to buttonwillow in December for a track day. Currently he uses Mobil 1 10w30 Synthetic oil (the non-extended performance one) in his 2006 Acura RSX-S. Engine is the K20Z, with a 8100 RPM redline and the i-vtec.
My question is, what oil would you guys recommend for him? He's going to be in high rpm's for an extended amount of time, so I told him to use GC. I use it in my 240sx and have great results, but my redline doesn't reach as high as his.


Any suggestions?

p.s., here's a picture of his car:

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Amsoil, Mobil 1, and Redline are all excellent oils for this type of event. I go to TMS and MotorSport Ranch which also requires a lot of high reving action in my G35 seeing 7200 rpms a lot. I ran Amsoil 5w30 and never had a problem.

Just make sure all the fluids are new, especially the brake fluid.
 
What ever oil he chooses as recommended by you, via us - if he blows the engine, watch out.

I like the new brake fluid idea.

I'm not sure he would need a X-40. I would go with a XW-30 tops, and a low 10's one at that.
 
Run your tire pressures a bit higher, check the lug nuts with a torque wrench, check your transmission, run a bottle of Cheveron ProGuard a couple of weeks before your track day. You want to get any crud you can out of the combustion chambers gradually, not on the track day in bigger pieces, or have those little pieces beat your spark plug to the punch. Mobil 1 is just a street oil with little to recommend it on a track day, try Red Line 5w30. If you're really picky, you can try a K&N oil filter, good filter, flows better, but won't pick up smaller pieces like a Purolator. Last, practice driving really smooth for a few weeks leading up to your track day, very gentle makes for fast times.
 
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Redline 10w40 and let engine warm up before going out on track
run mid hatch marks on dip stick....
do NOT fill to top line




Why would you recommend that? Many guys that race LS1s on road courses purposely overfill a tad so as to mitigate the oil uncovering the oil pump pick up around corners.
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I agree with Lonnie on the Chevron but use Techron instead of Proguard as it is more concentrated. I also disagree with excluding Mobil 1. The EP mobil 1 is what I would use. I would blend the 5w30 with 15w-50 about 1 quart of 15w-50 to 4 quarts of 5w30. Redline is also great and would be my second recomendation and probably 10w-40 weight.
 
Why do you need EP for a track day. They claim to have changed the formula to go longer between changes. Who cares on track day. The Mobil 1 street oil is nothing like the racing oil in all those race cars. I would consider Red Line for hard driving and depending on how many track days would cut short the oil change interval a bit. Remember, Mobil 1 is just a street oil and even though it's a synthetic is just an ordinary synthetic, nothing special. And that's the way it should be for a daily driver.
 
I have a Supercharged and Nitrous Injected 406 in my Corvette with a 7 quart oil pan and HVHP oil pump.
On a dyno it put 1038hp at the rear wheels on the track I run Mobil 1 15w50 and overfill about one quart because at high rpm you will have three quarts up in the engine.
I have a large oil cooler so I"m carrying about10 quart's
Engine has 8000 miles on it still going strong.
What is going to be harder on the oil than high rpm is the heat. Long track time will drive oil temp through the roof.
 
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I have a Supercharged and Nitrous Injected 406 in my Corvette with a 7 quart oil pan and HVHP oil pump.
On a dyno it put 1038hp at the rear wheels on the track I run Mobil 1 15w50 and overfill about one quart because at high rpm you will have three quarts up in the engine.
I have a large oil cooler so I"m carrying about10 quart's
Engine has 8000 miles on it still going strong.
What is going to be harder on the oil than high rpm is the heat. Long track time will drive oil temp through the roof.




Black Bart...he's got a stock 4-banger Honda K20...it's not even in the same ocean you swim in.
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re the brake fluid, I'd be using a race type fluid like Castrol SRF and semi-race or race pads. Standard road type brake bits don't cope with race speed/heat.
Full tread depth road tyres aren't very nice either, they squirm and slide all over the place.
 
Depends on the tire you have. I had GS-D3's from Goodyear and they did wonderful. I melted them by pushing them so hard a few times. Hehe.

Motul 600 Brake Fluid I would recommend. Or some Racing Blue fluid.
 
427Z06 Black Bart...he's got a stock 4-banger Honda K20...it's not even in the same ocean you swim in.
TRUE but I was pointing out that if my engine can survive on M1 it should be good enough for his also.
However I did point out that I use a large oil cooler and if he runs a 20 or 30 minute session and drive it balls to the wall the oil temp will go through the roof.
I agree with those who suggest that you flush the brake fluid to remove any moisture. It is not uncommon to ruin a set of pads and rotors on a track day. Kinda depends on how aggressive you drive.
 
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However I did point out that I use a large oil cooler and if he runs a 20 or 30 minute session and drive it balls to the wall the oil temp will go through the roof.





An oil cooler is usually a great idea for a tracked vehicle, but 15w50 in a tight stock Honda K20 may actually increase his oil temps. But I'll agree that a quality synthetic is most likely indicated to handle the increased temps.

What he really needs to do is install some good oil temp/pressure gauges to fine tune his selection of oil for track use.
 
If you use Red Line you don't have to mess with additives and mixing stuff. The people that make the oil know what they are doing. Mobil 1 is just an ordinary daily driver oil and you don't want to push it, with a load of that stuff in your pan. It's not the worst synthetic oil in the business, but it's within barking distance.
 
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