Burning Oil & OCI
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Originally Posted By: italian68
would you need to change your oil more or less often if consuming >1qt. per 1k miles, assuming the car does not leak at all.
No you need a new car.
would you need to change your oil more or less often if consuming >1qt. per 1k miles, assuming the car does not leak at all.
No you need a new car.
JHZR2
Staff member
At some point theoretically you just wouldn't need to change at all. But if burning oil, I'd want to change to help clean out some of the by products.
Just change it at the normal time.
But honestly, if you really are lazy and dont car. Burning that much you wouldnt need to change the oil at all since your topping it off an replenshing the additives so often. Just change the filter when ever the book says. Thats what i did with my neon. When i finally got around to taking the engine apart i found bits of metal in the pan. Turns out i had a busted ringland. Fun rebuild... ok have fun!
But honestly, if you really are lazy and dont car. Burning that much you wouldnt need to change the oil at all since your topping it off an replenshing the additives so often. Just change the filter when ever the book says. Thats what i did with my neon. When i finally got around to taking the engine apart i found bits of metal in the pan. Turns out i had a busted ringland. Fun rebuild... ok have fun!
Some manufacturers consider 1 quart every 1000-2000 miles within normal specifications! I know, crazy.
If you are adding a quart every 1000 miles, and the car was running 5000 mile OCI's, I'd extend that to 6500 miles. Because the oil filter is still catching junk. But thats just MHO!
If you are adding a quart every 1000 miles, and the car was running 5000 mile OCI's, I'd extend that to 6500 miles. Because the oil filter is still catching junk. But thats just MHO!
If the problem causing the oil burning is fixable I would consider just fixing the problem. If the car just isn't worth fixing I would just change oil once a year and top off as needed. That is the plan on my grandmother's Prizm. She only drives <8k per year and burns through a quart a month or so. We just do one change a year and keep it full in between. Oil always looks clean.
Originally Posted By: fisher83
If the problem causing the oil burning is fixable I would consider just fixing the problem. If the car just isn't worth fixing I would just change oil once a year and top off as needed. That is the plan on my grandmother's Prizm. She only drives div>
What he said. Change the filter every 6 months
If the problem causing the oil burning is fixable I would consider just fixing the problem. If the car just isn't worth fixing I would just change oil once a year and top off as needed. That is the plan on my grandmother's Prizm. She only drives div>
What he said. Change the filter every 6 months
I drive my truck about 12k miles a year. But my oil is very dark at 3000 miles. It burns a quart every 800 miles driving around town or a quart every 200 miles cruising down the highway.
So I can change out 1/2 the sump's capacity in a weekend if I'm hauling my boat somewhere to go fishing on a weekend. No kidding.
I still never go beyond 6k miles in my truck. Just makes me feel better to dump all that crud and start over.
But my truck also had a lot of sludge/crud from an inoperable PCV system when I bought it. It's Kleened out now, but oil still gets dirty fast. If the truck wasn't previously sludged up, I'd put on a synthetic filter on my truck (like an M1) and run decent dino oil for 15k miles between OC's.
So I can change out 1/2 the sump's capacity in a weekend if I'm hauling my boat somewhere to go fishing on a weekend. No kidding.
I still never go beyond 6k miles in my truck. Just makes me feel better to dump all that crud and start over.
But my truck also had a lot of sludge/crud from an inoperable PCV system when I bought it. It's Kleened out now, but oil still gets dirty fast. If the truck wasn't previously sludged up, I'd put on a synthetic filter on my truck (like an M1) and run decent dino oil for 15k miles between OC's.
You don't need to use M1 0w40 for this vehicle. Just use an oil that is on sale quite often like Maxlife NextGen and use a good oil filter like a Fram XG and do your 1 year 15k's. That plan will work absolutely perfect for you. No need to use "syn".
Originally Posted By: italian68
would you need to change your oil more or less often if consuming >1qt. per 1k miles, assuming the car does not leak at all.
The oil is changing itself, but there could be a lot of crud in the sump, so a 3K mile oil & filter change would be good. Choose a HM 5/40 and see if it helps reduce the loss, or think about adding a can of Liqui Moly oil stop leak and use a can of their at idle flush before the oil change.
If the oil burning slows down with HM plus stop leak then get a compression check done to see how bad the rings are, because if they are OK and it is the value guide seals gone, it might be worth fitting a recon head etc. Otherwise look for a good second hand engine if you like your truck or use an oil thickener as a last resort during summer. If the oil burning is less when the oil is new (It's thicker when new) then an oil thickener might help, but in reality such additives might reduce oil consumption, but also reduce the final engine life.
I presume the crankcase vent is still working?
would you need to change your oil more or less often if consuming >1qt. per 1k miles, assuming the car does not leak at all.
The oil is changing itself, but there could be a lot of crud in the sump, so a 3K mile oil & filter change would be good. Choose a HM 5/40 and see if it helps reduce the loss, or think about adding a can of Liqui Moly oil stop leak and use a can of their at idle flush before the oil change.
If the oil burning slows down with HM plus stop leak then get a compression check done to see how bad the rings are, because if they are OK and it is the value guide seals gone, it might be worth fitting a recon head etc. Otherwise look for a good second hand engine if you like your truck or use an oil thickener as a last resort during summer. If the oil burning is less when the oil is new (It's thicker when new) then an oil thickener might help, but in reality such additives might reduce oil consumption, but also reduce the final engine life.
I presume the crankcase vent is still working?
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Originally Posted By: chubbs1
You don't need to use M1 0w40 for this vehicle. Just use an oil that is on sale quite often like Maxlife NextGen and use a good oil filter like a Fram XG and do your 1 year 15k's. That plan will work absolutely perfect for you. No need to use "syn".
Agreed,
If the oil has gotten very dark in a one year period then yes change it... If it's still somewhat amber then the engine doesn't have a sludge or major blowby problem and I'd probably go at least 1.5 years, if not longer...
You don't need to use M1 0w40 for this vehicle. Just use an oil that is on sale quite often like Maxlife NextGen and use a good oil filter like a Fram XG and do your 1 year 15k's. That plan will work absolutely perfect for you. No need to use "syn".
Agreed,
If the oil has gotten very dark in a one year period then yes change it... If it's still somewhat amber then the engine doesn't have a sludge or major blowby problem and I'd probably go at least 1.5 years, if not longer...
Just use a GOOD filter, once per year with the top offs. Thats all you need.
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: italian68
not worth fixing, most likely clogged piston oil holes. good info, yearly oci, approx 15k mi, with filter change every 6 months sounds "good enough" for her.
using m1 0w 40, should i go thicker to lessen consumption?
Clogged? Have you tried kreen yet? I would.
Thicker? Syn? If it is beyond something that a cleaner like Kreen can handle, and your indication is that it's not worth fixing, I wouldn't. I'd do the test to see if a 5w-30 vs 10w-40 vs 20w-50 consumes faster, and consider changing top up oils by the season, but generally go with just a decent conventional oil. No point in burning $7 if you can burn $4 instead.
not worth fixing, most likely clogged piston oil holes. good info, yearly oci, approx 15k mi, with filter change every 6 months sounds "good enough" for her.
using m1 0w 40, should i go thicker to lessen consumption?
Clogged? Have you tried kreen yet? I would.
Thicker? Syn? If it is beyond something that a cleaner like Kreen can handle, and your indication is that it's not worth fixing, I wouldn't. I'd do the test to see if a 5w-30 vs 10w-40 vs 20w-50 consumes faster, and consider changing top up oils by the season, but generally go with just a decent conventional oil. No point in burning $7 if you can burn $4 instead.
i like the 0w40 for the fact that my father drives this car and he always starts the car rite up and pulls off like the car has been running for an hour already. 1 block from my house is a 40 mph road, up hill in both directions and the traffic is always fast flowing. i also want to keep the amount of time i spend on maintaining this car to a minimum. no sense trying to diagnose the motor when the body is a mess too.
Extend your oil change interval by abuot two thousand miles. Bet your plugs will foul quicker, so you may want change them more frequently.
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