I thought that I had read on this site that certain engines have built-in ADBV's. Is this true? Does the GM 3800 (L36) have this feature? If so, do I still need to be concerned about my filter's ADBV composition/capability?
Built-In Anti-Drainback Valves : GM Engines
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I believe it was the filter bypass valve that is built into the block of GM engines (actually may be built into the filter mount). The antidrainback would still be needed if it is specified for your vehicle unless the filter mounts upright it may not matter.
TallPaul is correct. GM(and some other makes) have bypasses in the engine so the filters don't need them. You can ignore all the commotion about clickers, bypass pressures, threaded end, ect.
They do not have a ADBV, I believe the only engine that include these are ones with cartridge style filters.
-T
They do not have a ADBV, I believe the only engine that include these are ones with cartridge style filters.
-T
They do, at least every GM vehicle we've had (all have had the block mounted bypass valves).
I would think that, should the block-mounted bypass valve become stuck due to sludge/varnish in a neglected engine (this has been known to happen), the redundant presence of a bypass valve in the filter would prove very helpful. But this scenario is evidently rare, and would never likely be an issue in an engine that's seen regular oil changes.
Yes, this is evidently a rare occurrence, but occasionally one reads on this board about filters, sometimes repeatedly, bulging or bursting. And the "Overpressurization" bulletins in the Fram, Purolator, and Baldwin catalogs and websites specifically address block bypass failure, so apparently it happens with a frequency that would justify such bulletins (I haven't a clue what the frequency might be).
If you look at lubeowners posts he said that none of the failed filters were from GM engines. As Hirev said the bulletins you are reading are most likely talking about the pressure relief which is in all engines. If this fails it might send too much pressure through the filter causing bursting or failure.
-T
-T
"I think your a little confused. To much oil pressure and blown filters is a result of oil pump bypass valve problems. It is not the same thing as a block mounted oil filter bypass valve."
The specific term I should have used is "oil pressure relief valve." These are usually located within the oil pump assembly, but are sometimes found elsewhere in the engine block. I believe some "bypass" valves may play a role in diverting oil to oil coolers, and that might also confuse things. I wasn't referring to bypass filtration systems, if interpreted that way.
"It is not the same thing as..."
Could you please expand on this just to clarify? Thanks.
The specific term I should have used is "oil pressure relief valve." These are usually located within the oil pump assembly, but are sometimes found elsewhere in the engine block. I believe some "bypass" valves may play a role in diverting oil to oil coolers, and that might also confuse things. I wasn't referring to bypass filtration systems, if interpreted that way.
"It is not the same thing as..."
Could you please expand on this just to clarify? Thanks.
The GM bypass valve is within the oil filter adapter/mount. The aftermarket sells adapters that get rid of this bypass...highly recommended on a high performance engine that is worth some $$$$$.
The bypass valve routes oil around the filter element when the element poses too great of restriction. (GM puts this in the engine, other put it in the filter) The pressure relief valve regulates the total pressure seen by the oil system. It bypasses oil back into the pan. (this is always in the engine AFAIK)
-T
-T
The pressure relief valve/spring is in the oil pump.....just wanted to point that out so those that aren't familiar with Chevy engines don't get confused and think that there's another "part" in the filter.
This is usually done on engines that use high flow racing filters, don't see daily starts in cold weather, and the oil and filter are changed at very short intervals.
The way around all that is to run the biggest, highest quality filter(s) you can fit and run a good oil pump. Keep in mind most high performance engines have high pressure or high volume oil pumps or both and the oil psi comes up "right now" after starting. My 509 is at 80 psi cold in what seems like miliseconds after starting it. I have a Moroso pump and no filter adapter bypass, dual Moroso filters and M1 15W50. None of my Chevy engines have/had them and I've never had any oil related issues. For daily drivers that are bone stock, I'd leave the factory adapter on. For someone with a high performance street engine or racing engine, I'd ditch it.
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