BS V-twin carb leak found,fixed I hope

[rekit]

B&S V-twin on Zero turn mower.
This all started when the engine failed to start one day, had been running great and starting easily after I found out how the intake valves should be set to activate the compression release. Before I did that i would have to turn it past compression by hand for the starter to spin it.
Pulled carb, was spotless, couldn't find anything wrong with carb, put it back on and it ran great...once. Bought a chinese one on Amazon, put it on ran great for months. Then gas started dripping on muffler heat shield. First thought was fuel hose at tight bend, replaced. Stil leaks. Appeared to be solenoid threads. Tightened, stopped for a while (2 weeks). Leak returned. Removed solenoid and used teflon tape. Leaking but not there. Removed cowl and air filter and ran it. Looked like the gas was coming from top cover gasket. Replaced. Leaks...Removed the fuel pump pulse tube and fuel line and finally saw bubbles coming from the carb inlet metal tube. Dang thing is just a press fit-no o-ring or anything. I didn't think permatex would last so I used JB weld. Was careful not to plug anything up. hope this will last.

 

[rekit]

It looks like an o ring in one pic, now that the pic is bigger. It didn't look like one as I was cleaning it. Either way it was leaking. Anyone know?

 

[mk378]

That's a press in but all the marks in the hole suggest the drill bit wobbled and the hole is oversize.

 

[Rudy1999 250]

WOW, looks like the Engine that i have a 27 HP Briggs and Stratton

how many hours do you have

 

[Colt45ws]

Originally Posted by mk378
That's a press in but all the marks in the hole suggest the drill bit wobbled and the hole is oversize.

Agree with this. I had a problem with this very carb and I rebuilt it. There is a very common failure in the fuel bowl of one seal and prevents it from getting any fuel. Replaced that, and it works like new.
TBH the JBweld fix will probably work for a good while. Run it.

 

[Oro_O]

Quote
Was careful not to plug anything up. hope this will last.


Let it cure as long as you can and it will last. Love me some JB Weld.

I have been using it for 30 or so years like you probably. most recent good save was fixing a valve cover on a Toyota 1MZ-fe V6. Even though I knew the hazard, I cracked the valve cover tightening the bolts after a gasket change. I grooved the cover inside with valley cuts for the adhesive to take a seat better, in the pic below. JB, and five years and 100k miles later it is solid and I did not have to buy a new valve cover or even new custom bolts (as I SHOULD have done). 1st and 2nd pic should show how badly this cover was cracked but was healed.

Windows in my SUV are working because I skipped the $30 "channel bond adhesive" to glue them to new guide clips and just used JB weld. Love the stuff!!!!

Yes, it will take the gas and heat, just let it cure fully.

 

[rekit]

"Colt45rs"
" I had a problem with this very carb and I rebuilt it. There is a very common failure in the fuel bowl of one seal and prevents it from getting any fuel. Replaced that, and it works like new."

I read that the jets might fall out of the rubber orings, but that was not my situation with the original carb. Are you talking about another potential problem? Can you tell me what seal? That's what it was acting like-no fuel. With this china carb, it runs well at speed but still hunts at idle like it is starving. Never imagined the day when carbs would have no adjustments, or even throttles on the smaller engines.

 

[Colt45ws]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BFDO42XLtdU fast forward to like 4:30.
Take you old carb, flip it upside down and pull the fuel bowl. There is a plastic plunger thats controlled by the fuel shutoff solenoid. There is a o-ring on that plunger and it goes bad allowing air to go over the top of the plunger instead of getting fuel from the bottom of the bowl.

 

[rekit]

Thx for the info. Mine is different in that the solenoid comes in from the side. I'll check and see if it works the same way.

 

[rekit]

UPDATE: I let it cure for 3 days (didn't need to use it right away) and have ran it for 4 hours over 3 sessions and it is not leaking. It is running great and the surge and wanting-to-die idle is gone. I didn't expect that......I figured the fuel pump pressure would over-ride any air trying to get in at the leak. I'll update in a few months. Thanks all.

 

[rekit]

It's been a month, have 13 hours on it. Still ok.