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Yes, if I can keep it there (180F) ..right now I appears that even with a thermostat, the 10% (or whatever the real % of flow passing on to the exchanger is) flow diversion lowers my oil temp a great deal. Idling and hill climbing work just fine ..and highway speeds at higher ambient temps appeared reasonable ..today I idled to 187F and took it on the highway and it quickly came down to sub 150F.
I couldn't find the IR gun at my friend's shop today to verify the temp sensor reading, but the numbers at idle looked about right. I can't imagine the steel parts shedding that much heat due to air flow inside the engine compartment ..but that could be an obscure possibility
I'll fashion some type of wrap that will insulate it from airflow. Heck, I could use just about anything, but do kinda want it to look respectable. I'm going to replace the coolant thermostat with a NAPA Superstat and I'm surely going to be putting in another coolant
il heat exchanger that runs bypass (continuous with engine coolant temp) if these reading prove valid.
The main idea was to warm up as a 10 weight ..while operating as a 20 weight ..but we'll still try and push it as low in the 20 weight span as possible.
Bruce suggested that, given the add pack, that running uncooled might just work out. Since my "waste heat" warm up modality has proven to be a pathetic failure ..I may give it a try. Running nek-kid
I'm going to post this question in another thread ..but based on my initial results ..and without any gross errors being discovered ..I've really got to wonder how anyone with one of these Ford heat exchangers on a Crown Vic manage to maintain any oil temp at all ..at least in the winter. They even cool via the lower rad hose. I don't believe that there is any active thermostat in the system (perhaps a passive one is in use).
I wouldn't run that stuff.
