I do not have a car. When I buy one which has the brightest and most far reaching headlights? Thanks
Bright Low Beams
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strange criteria for a car purchase.
low beams are supposed to have specific cutoffs and brightness so you dont blind oncoming traffic causing irritated drivers who want to do bad stuff to you.
that being said.. any vehicle with REAL HID lowbeams will be brighter.
low beams are supposed to have specific cutoffs and brightness so you dont blind oncoming traffic causing irritated drivers who want to do bad stuff to you.
that being said.. any vehicle with REAL HID lowbeams will be brighter.
One that has HID/Xenon bulbs, usually found on more upscale makes & models.
Cars that are lower to the ground typically have better light distribution. My S2000's headlamps were very low to the ground and the beam spread and brightness was epic.
There are legal limits on light output anyways, so we're sort of splitting hairs here.
There are legal limits on light output anyways, so we're sort of splitting hairs here.
I have a 09 F-150 and cars always think my high beams are on. Once I get flashed or even more annoying the other driver will keep their high beams on I will give them a good look at my high beams this really seems to irritate other drivers. Which is fine with me because this is the only time I use high beams while driving on road.
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Headlights on my truck suck cause there so far up off the ground compared to a car.
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The headlights on both of my BMW's are excellent. Both are projectors however with factory HID's.
Specifically you want a car with Bi-xenon headlights. These are HIDs which use a mechanical device to move the filament, creating both high and low beams in one light. These cars will have a sharp cutoff HID for low beams and then a large, HID floodlight for high beams.
Many cars use HIDs for low beams only and then halogens for high beams. This is due to HIDs having a warmup time of several seconds. But Bi-xenon HIDs keep one filament lit all the time.
Many cars use HIDs for low beams only and then halogens for high beams. This is due to HIDs having a warmup time of several seconds. But Bi-xenon HIDs keep one filament lit all the time.
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Yanking the BITOG chain. Keeps posting the same thing and never responds back.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2504667#Post2504667
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2504667#Post2504667
Originally Posted By: dave1251
I have a 09 F-150 and cars always think my high beams are on.
When I drove a 10 wheel truck, I found the higher lights pointed a little more down than cars ... I'd suggest that (unless you've already done so) you have their aiming checked. Perhaps they are set with an empty bed and you have a load now?
I have a 09 F-150 and cars always think my high beams are on.
When I drove a 10 wheel truck, I found the higher lights pointed a little more down than cars ... I'd suggest that (unless you've already done so) you have their aiming checked. Perhaps they are set with an empty bed and you have a load now?
Originally Posted By: Corvette Owner
Specifically you want a car with Bi-xenon headlights. These are HIDs which use a mechanical device to move the filament, creating both high and low beams in one light. These cars will have a sharp cutoff HID for low beams and then a large, HID floodlight for high beams.
I think there are two different ways of doing this. My mother-in-law's old 2004 Acura TL, for instance, would not move the filament, but would lower the shield for main beams. The filament stayed centered in the projector. The shield was raised to the center of the projector for dip beam and would move out of the way for main beam.
Specifically you want a car with Bi-xenon headlights. These are HIDs which use a mechanical device to move the filament, creating both high and low beams in one light. These cars will have a sharp cutoff HID for low beams and then a large, HID floodlight for high beams.
I think there are two different ways of doing this. My mother-in-law's old 2004 Acura TL, for instance, would not move the filament, but would lower the shield for main beams. The filament stayed centered in the projector. The shield was raised to the center of the projector for dip beam and would move out of the way for main beam.
After having HIDs (factory on my 328) I can't go back. Even bright bulbs like SS Ultras seem dim. I used the factory bulbs for a long time, but when I got my M-Tech 2 front bumper and projector foglights I decided to go for HID fogs. I went with 5000K bulbs for both, as there is no difference in visibility to me but I do like the look a bit better, especially since they match the 5000K 200LED "Angel Eyes" I installed at the same time (LED eyes were a big visual improvement from CCFL). I have since replaced the headlight cover with completely clear glass ("Euro") with clear Lamin-X and new, ultra-slim/low profile ballasts that are about 20% more powerful as well as much better wiring. My low beams are fantastic, the cutoff is so sharp you could use it to trace a line with a pencil from 100ft away, the light is incredibly even, and I feel absolutely safe. With the lows and fogs on together, the light pattern is significantly wider for a good distance then cuts off into the main beam's path. I am considering getting a set of yellow HID bulbs for the fogs for use in early spring/late fall when there is a much greater chance of rain, and using the 5kK ones the rest of the time (the car is stored in a climate controlled garage in winter).
Alternately, I could just get a second set of glass lenses for the fog lights and put yellow Lamin-X over them. I don't feel it would work as well though.
I use high wattage SS Ultras (the European ones) in my high beams which are also DRLs, as they perfectly match the 5kK HIDs and Angel Eyes. I upgraded the wiring to a thicker gauge and have had zero issues with the higher power draw, only benefits (stronger DRLs, stronger highs, etc), and I doubt they are going to melt glass covers.
I also have my car wired so that I can use the fogs, highs, and lows all at once as I do enough driving out in backroads of nowhere that it is very beneficial. Typically, though, I just use my lows, fogs, and the always-on Angel Eyes. During bad daytime weather, it is nice to be able to have the Angel Eyes and DRLs on with fogs and no lows/highs: it cuts under the rain, does not produce any glare for other drivers, and it makes my car far more noticeable (I do not want to get hit).
In the end, I would never buy another car without HIDs. They are such a low cost option relative to the immense benefits. However, you will never see me with purple or strong blue tints from my lights... A friend has 10,000K HIDs in his Audi and they are good for nothing but show: the light output is hardly better than Silverstars. Better than the 18,000K bulbs another acquaintence had in their Range Rover Sport Supercharged, those were like trying to drive with a neon bar sign lighting the road. Especially as he was putting out over 525hp (S/C belt, pulleys, intake, headers, exhaust, remap/tune, and tranny software flash). Scary. He has since replaced with 5500K after riding with me
Alternately, I could just get a second set of glass lenses for the fog lights and put yellow Lamin-X over them. I don't feel it would work as well though.
I use high wattage SS Ultras (the European ones) in my high beams which are also DRLs, as they perfectly match the 5kK HIDs and Angel Eyes. I upgraded the wiring to a thicker gauge and have had zero issues with the higher power draw, only benefits (stronger DRLs, stronger highs, etc), and I doubt they are going to melt glass covers.
I also have my car wired so that I can use the fogs, highs, and lows all at once as I do enough driving out in backroads of nowhere that it is very beneficial. Typically, though, I just use my lows, fogs, and the always-on Angel Eyes. During bad daytime weather, it is nice to be able to have the Angel Eyes and DRLs on with fogs and no lows/highs: it cuts under the rain, does not produce any glare for other drivers, and it makes my car far more noticeable (I do not want to get hit).
In the end, I would never buy another car without HIDs. They are such a low cost option relative to the immense benefits. However, you will never see me with purple or strong blue tints from my lights... A friend has 10,000K HIDs in his Audi and they are good for nothing but show: the light output is hardly better than Silverstars. Better than the 18,000K bulbs another acquaintence had in their Range Rover Sport Supercharged, those were like trying to drive with a neon bar sign lighting the road. Especially as he was putting out over 525hp (S/C belt, pulleys, intake, headers, exhaust, remap/tune, and tranny software flash). Scary. He has since replaced with 5500K after riding with me
Honestly the cars with the brightest. Hid lamps are Honda and acura. Stanley koito projectors tend to have the highest output Porsche also uses them too. Bolivia and saab tend to have the least output as they use valeo but are Definately brighter than halogen bulbs.
Easily taken care of with what I described
tho perhaps beyond what most would do.
Originally Posted By: bobbob
I do not have a car. When I buy one which has the brightest and most far reaching headlights? Thanks
one of the farthest (not necessarily the brighest) is the Hella e55 style bixenon headlight. The huge step in the pattern is what makes it "far reaching" in range.
the older Acura TL bixenons were a good blend in width, uniformity & reach.
the ultimate low beam is the 3rd gen (with refresh) Lexus LS430
that thing has some major width to the beam pattern
I do not have a car. When I buy one which has the brightest and most far reaching headlights? Thanks
one of the farthest (not necessarily the brighest) is the Hella e55 style bixenon headlight. The huge step in the pattern is what makes it "far reaching" in range.
the older Acura TL bixenons were a good blend in width, uniformity & reach.
the ultimate low beam is the 3rd gen (with refresh) Lexus LS430
that thing has some major width to the beam pattern
Although it isn't as easy as it used to because of the spread of plastic bumpers, there are a number of accessory lighting "solutions" for lighting problems. If you like a car otherwise, check out adding fog or driving lights. A good place to check is "Dan Stern Lighting.com" He will give you good advice on what to do with a particular car. The same goes for seats. Recaro, among others, make replacement seats which bolt in. Don't rule out an otherwise good car because you are not comfortable with the seat.
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