Briggs Engine Shortblock - What Should I Pay?

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TWG1572

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I found a used briggs I/C engine on an auction site, which has basically been parted out down to a shortblock. It would be a direct match to the ailing engine on my Troybilt Horse III, so I could bolt my carb, flywheel, etc onto it. I'd like to keep this thing stock, and blocks/shortblocks are NLA so it would be really nice if this would work out for me.

I'm really struggling with a reasonable price to chase it to. The seller says there wasn't anything wrong with the engine, but it's not like I can hear it run or even inspect it. I was thinking somewhere in the range of $75-80, plus shipping. But I really have no idea what these "should" go for in the real world, so would really appreciate some input.

I'm rolling the dice a bit, but my block has a JBWelded hole in it and some ring issues, so anything would be an improvement. I could fix the rings, probably, but the hole's going to be there. And welding the hole shut would probably work, but that's going to be a decent welding bill too.

Thanks!
 
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What's the Model, Type, and Code number of the engine you're wanting to replace?

Also, if you need a service manual and an illustrated parts list, let me know.
 
Originally Posted By: TWG1572
195432 0291 01


Yep, I got it on file. It's a horizontal shaft L-head single cylinder with a 2-Piece Flow Jet carburetor.

If you want the service manual and IPL, you'll have to PM me your email address. I'd have to send it to you via my G-Mail account because my personal email account doesn't handle sending files that large.

Where in the block is the hole?
 
Originally Posted By: TWG1572
Yes but....... I'd prefer to keep this classic hunk of American iron non Chinese. I'll pay more but am OK with that.

just my experience, the honda engines (and presumably the chicom chonda chlones sold at china freight) are .. WAY more fuel efficient than even a less powerful B&S. I'm talking, twice as fuel efficient.
 
Originally Posted By: TWG1572
Yes but....... I'd prefer to keep this classic hunk of American iron non Chinese. I'll pay more but am OK with that.


Your wallet and time. Typically a short block is just that...a block. It doesn't include crank, pistons, rings, etc. You'll need to do a lot more than bolt on parts. If it comes with all that its really a long block. If its a short block for $75-80, you're getting a really bad deal.
 
Originally Posted By: bvance554
Typically a short block is just that...a block. It doesn't include crank, pistons, rings, etc.


Well, I'm looking at the pictures at the bottom of the link and it looks to me like a short block is an engine assembly minus the cylinder head, ignition coil, flywheel, starter housing, starter clutch, rope, carburetor, intake manifold, air vane governor, governor linkages, air cleaner, fuel tank, and muffler.

LINK
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: bvance554
Typically a short block is just that...a block. It doesn't include crank, pistons, rings, etc.


Well, I'm looking at the pictures at the bottom of the link and it looks to me like a short block is an engine assembly minus the cylinder head, ignition coil, flywheel, starter housing, starter clutch, rope, carburetor, intake manifold, air vane governor, governor linkages, air cleaner, fuel tank, and muffler.

LINK


What Merkava describes is pretty much what I'd be getting. I also get that a Predator from HF would be a more logical way to go here, but I just don't want to go there.

The hole in the block is where one of the flanges that bolt to the recoil cover broke off. It's a pea size hole. It's one of the bottom ones, so it's always under the level of the oil, so if the JBWeld were to fail I'd probably lose an engine pretty quickly.
 
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What size is this engine? If it's in the 10hp+ range I could fathom it, but if it's a smaller one I wouldn't even go there. $35. It's gonna cost a butt-ton to ship it...

If it were me.... I'd starting drooling about a repower with a newer briggs, if brand was important, with Lots of drool towards a 2 cyl. NOT cost effective, I know, but the gearhead in me would try to find a way... there have to be used V-twins out there rusting somewhere....
 
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How many HP is the engine? I'm restoring a 1960s Ariens Sno-Thro snowblower. The old Tecumseh it had on it was shot, but I couldn't stand to replace it with a Chinese piece of junk engine. I found a used 7HP Briggs and Stratton OHV engine for $100 on craigslist. It might be worth checking around. You can probably get a good running used Briggs engine for cheaper than that short block would be shipped. A lot of times people have pressure washers where the Chinese pump fails but the engine is still good so they sell the engine for cheap.
 
This is only an 8hp engine, but it has a 3/4 shaft which has made sifting through the Craigslist finds pretty much an effort in futility so far.

I don't know if I could buy a 1" shaft and just find the same size pullys as I have now (it's a double pully drive). Might be one route.
 
Originally Posted By: bvance554

Your wallet and time. Typically a short block is just that...a block. It doesn't include crank, pistons, rings, etc. You'll need to do a lot more than bolt on parts. If it comes with all that its really a long block. If its a short block for $75-80, you're getting a really bad deal.


No it isn't, a short block will include the crank, rod, piston, cam, valves, plus the oil sump on a valve in block engine...
 
Originally Posted By: TFB1
Originally Posted By: bvance554

Your wallet and time. Typically a short block is just that...a block. It doesn't include crank, pistons, rings, etc. You'll need to do a lot more than bolt on parts. If it comes with all that its really a long block. If its a short block for $75-80, you're getting a really bad deal.


No it isn't, a short block will include the crank, rod, piston, cam, valves, plus the oil sump on a valve in block engine...


You're correct, I was mistaken. However, buying a parted out block at auction I'd want to verify what was coming with the package.
 
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