Breaking in a 2.0L Mazda Skyactiv?

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Originally Posted By: buster
How do people know Mazda breaks-in the engine?


They don't. It's called 'heresay' as it is endlessly repeated from forum to forum.

Most mfgrs do not break in motors at all, they simply spin them on a test platform to verify they are assembled correctly. That hardly constitutes a run in process.

And to those who know an employee of a mfgr, it is likely they signed a non-disclosure agreement at work and are not supposed to share the info anyway, I'm not sure that someone telling me they are a Mazda employee really means much...
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: buster
How do people know Mazda breaks-in the engine?


They don't. It's called 'heresay' as it is endlessly repeated from forum to forum.

Most mfgrs do not break in motors at all, they simply spin them on a test platform to verify they are assembled correctly. That hardly constitutes a run in process.

And to those who know an employee of a mfgr, it is likely they signed a non-disclosure agreement at work and are not supposed to share the info anyway, I'm not sure that someone telling me they are a Mazda employee really means much...


There is no trade secret associated with break-in. Mazda has been open about their pre-running for a while. I know they were open about it as far back as 2006 when I first inquired about it back then.
 
As you can see, there is no agreement on this issue. Since I've been on the internet, I've yet to get a concise answer on two questions: 1. Should you break-in the engine with full throttle/high load/low rpm runs? 2. Do manufacturers break-in the engine?

Actually I'm wrong, several years ago a GM engineer joined the site and he was in favor of a more aggressive break-in.
 
Originally Posted By: buster
As you can see, there is no agreement on this issue. Since I've been on the internet, I've yet to get a concise answer on two questions: 1. Should you break-in the engine with full throttle/high load/low rpm runs? 2. Do manufacturers break-in the engine?

Actually I'm wrong, several years ago a GM engineer joined the site and he was in favor of a more aggressive break-in.


Aggressive break-ins can definitely help seat the rings. The manual for the old Onan generator we've got on the boat has a section about break in. Their recommendations are to make sure to get some load on it pretty early and I think they say to give it a full load run after an hour or so. There's a big, bold warning in there that if it's broken in under insufficient load, the rings may never seat, causing oil consumption and requiring disassembly for a cylinder re-hone.
 
How long in the break in period would you say is most crucial? The first 100 miles, 1000? When would you say things are set?
 
Originally Posted By: jigen
How long in the break in period would you say is most crucial? The first 100 miles, 1000? When would you say things are set?


Rings are seated very quickly or likely to glaze and be difficult to ever seat. That requires throttle, as the pressure pushes the ring outward into the cylinder wall.

FWIW the factory manual in my 6.1 says full throttle is beneficial to break in.

The rotating assembly is either right or wrong, no break in there at all unless your machinist is high...
 
Originally Posted By: DBMaster
Drove mine like a rental and left the factory fill in for the full 7,500 miles. While there is no such thing as a car that doesn't burn a "drop of oil." I have not had to add any makeup oil between OCI's. I have 28,000 on it now and my average combined mpg is 35.

I get the car to maximum RPM's daily (6,000-6,500). I did the same thing with my 1989 Accord. I traded it in after 23 years and 353,000 miles, still on its original engine, and still giving me 27 mpg - as good as it ever got in combined driving.

There is no magic formula for this and asking these question on this forum is going to get you so many differing responses I doubt it's going to help you.


Mine had 6 miles on it. I now have 170. I have varied the rpms, put high load on the engine and did a few WOT. I have not exceeded 5k rpms yet. I've been using 4th/5th at 60-80 WOT.

The 6speed is ridiculously smooth. Smoothest manual I've ever had.
 
Just drive it. The technician who does the pre-delivery inspection will thrash it during the test drive anyway, it'll be broken in before you even see it for the first time... Oil and filter change at 1,000km if you're keen (which you obviously are) and then every 10,000km after that. It'll use some oil at some stage during your ownership, that's just what cars do, don't let it worry you too much. Enjoy!
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: hpb
Just drive it. The technician who does the pre-delivery inspection will thrash it during the test drive anyway, it'll be broken in before you even see it for the first time... Oil and filter change at 1,000km if you're keen (which you obviously are) and then every 10,000km after that. It'll use some oil at some stage during your ownership, that's just what cars do, don't let it worry you too much. Enjoy!
smile.gif


Couldn't agree more.
Usually the technicians or even the people who deliver the cars thrash our precious cars before handing them to us. (Some dealers drive the car from the port/ warehouse to the dealer before delivering, at least that's how it works here and i've read that some dealers in the US do the same.)

In fact, i just purchased a new Toyota LC Prado a week ago and when i looked at the average fuel consumption metrics since the last drive, it was maxed out!
crazy.gif


However, most brands (Dealers) here recommend a 1K KM break in oil change and then every 5K. (Except for the euro brands)
 
Who knows more about your engine? A team of engineers that design, build, and stand behind it, or a bunch of guys on the internet that have had success breaking in a few engines? If it was my car, I'd read the manual, and follow it. No reason to complicate things.
 
I guess our OP is well past his break in now.

With modern engines I would say break in is nearly instantaneous, still I try to avoid sustained steady state driving for at least several hundred miles.

The VW kept the factory fill for 1 year as per manufacturer instructions and the big twin will get a service at 1000 as per manufacturer instructions.

I would treat a post OEM engine differently.
 
The compression ratio in the first post is wrong. The US spec 2014 Skyactiv engines have 13:1 compression ratio (Japaneese spec is 14:1 due to better gas)

I have a feeling that Mazda detuned the engine for US spec in order to allow regular gas for the tree huggers and I personally run Premium 93 octane in mine. I don't have any proof or dyno results but I compared regular gas vs Premium and found the engine to be more response and stronger. I don't have an issue with the price difference for premium fuel. My Mazda 3 is now modified and gets abused daily. It will be tuned to take full advantage of the premium fuel when tunning software comes out.

I agree about the manual tranny. I have a CorkSport short shifter plate on mine, which reduces throw by like 22% or something like that. Feels even better then Mazda designed it.
 
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